z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 1 继续发现很多问题的答案，书里写得清清楚楚
包括版上之前讨论过的好多问题
建议诺诺虚心阅读，很多他本人问过的问题书里原文详细回答
（例如他问过figure 8的问题）
不要总是说什么拿到手就阅读了3次什么的，仔细阅读，word by word
好书，好书
顺便问一个插图是不是画错了
202页，讲到mid rappel停止的几个方法
第一个方法是leg wrap
那个图，怎么brake方向的绳子到了身后了，这个不容易实现吧
你在下降过程中，正常做法，整个绳子系统在身前，怎么要半路停止的时候就能把整个
系统
弄到身后然后腿上绕圈？
感觉还是用autoblock或者prusik结合理，根据另一本书里的推崇，autoblock/prusik
结还有
防止手跟绳子直接接触摩擦过热的好处，而且万一半路落石新手不小心胆小放手能紧急
制动
为什么那天听白菜说autoblock他们实际上用的很少呢，理由是什么呢？ |
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R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 2 autoblock只能保证你的brake,不能保证整个系统, test这步不能省
有overhang的地方也一样可以test,刚给老三电话说了一下, 你们回头再交流一下
这步
下,说 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 3 autoblock is not helping you in any way if you haven't checked your rap
anchor |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 rule of thumb: you don't start rappeling with the anchor lower than your
waist because if you fall in this case, you might be inverted (head down).
in the case where you can't find an anchor high enough to rappel off, you
need to start rappeling sitting, facing away from the anchor. then you push
your butt out and turn slowly to get into the normal rappel position. it's
always a little scary to do a sit and spin. if you are not comfortable, use
autoblock. also, with sit and spin, it's more criti |
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R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 5 没画错
rappel的时候，绳子可以在两腿间，也可以在身侧
在身侧的时候（图中是在左侧），从身后绕半圈，然后在另一测腿上绕几圈
关于autoblock和prusik的事情，我给frank详细讲了，他自己也练习了，你有空可以和
他交流一下
prusik |
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R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 6 另外，关于autoblock的问题，我没说很少用，你又记错了
整个
紧急 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 4mm cord is not strong enough! You need at least 5mm. cut in 4 foot loops
and tie a double fisherman. it's perfect size for autoblock and slinging
over the neck. choose a vivid color to make a nice looking necklace.
save your 4mm cords for walkie-talkie keeper |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 Now I almost always use autoblock when rappeling except at single pitch
crags. It probably slows me down 10 seconds per rappel, but I think it's
well worth it. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 I use the high friction side of the reverso 3 when I rappel on a thin rope.
Also, extending the rappel helps a LOT with increasing the effectiveness of
autoblock. I have rapped off twin ropes quite a few times with this setting
and felt quite comfortable. ATC is not really designed for modern day thin
ropes. I mostly use it for cragging now.
it |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 10 i think the high friction mode can be useful even for toproping, especially
if the belayer is much lighter than the climber. i still love the autoblock
mode for multipitch. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 12 In that case, ACT XP will work
especially
autoblock
you |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 14 Grand Teton / Upper Exum Ridge
技术方面就不提了，反正网上都有，八卦为主。
本来呢，这次计划很美好，5天时间呆在Boston Basin，先后爬Forbidden Peak/West
Ridge, Mt Torment / S Ridge, Mt Buckner/N Face, 一个CC，一个Ice Credit，啥都
齐了。
结果还是计划赶不上变化，周三早上六点赶到Ranger Station，领队说Cascade Pass天
气大差，雷暴加上雨天，要不大家找个石头cragging几天算了。同学们很不甘心地一路
往东开，先开到Washington Pass，早上下雨石头还没干，远方一团雷暴云正在酝酿中
。接着往东开到Mazama Rocks，说不然crag一天打道回府。几个人都是好不容易腾出来
五天时间的，哪能这么甘心束手就擒呀，在小店里头喝咖啡的时候就有人提议说要不咱
们一直再往东开，开到大提顿公园去爬大提顿吧。几个人面面相觑地互相打量打量，就
这么决定了。继续往东开到Winthrop，某人的智能手机终于有了数据信号，看看天气貌
似不错，然后每个人掏出... 阅读全帖 |
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d*******d
发帖数: 3382 | 15 隔一阵，就蹦个信息说又block一个intrusion，但是block的好像是DNS。
换个DNS,又被block。这个正常么？
我的电脑在router后面。router好像什么也没设。
Details: Attempted Intrusion "Portscan" against your machine was detected an
d blocked.
Intruder: 4.2.2.2(domain(53)).
Risk Level: Medium.
Protocol: UDP.
Attacked IP: my computer (192.168.0.2).
Attacked Port: 1330. |
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b**j
发帖数: 20742 | 16 if an id has been banned by more than 10 BMs in 1 hour, ban this id from bbs
and delete all his articles automatically |
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f**********r
发帖数: 18251 | 22 你跟流星干嘛这么其实钻风？
人家也是辛辛苦苦工作踏踏实实养家，你们凭什么对他们冷眼相待恶语相向？凭什么？ |
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m***y
发帖数: 276 | 23 辛辛苦苦工作踏踏实实养家的人多了，得看人做出些什么事 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 24 Good lessons learned and I'm glad you are safe. Don't worry about the gears
and cookies. 3 suggestions if I may.
1. one good lesson to learn from aid climbers: don't rappel with a heavy
pack on your back. Instead, hang it below you between your legs. That's what
they do with the pig (haul bag). If you really have to do so, rig a chest
harness.
2. Another lesson to learn: use autoblock if you need to. It could be jerky
and uncomfortable. But with some practice you can make it quite smooth. The
ke |
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