c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 第一个pitch belayer不会挂掉，呵呵。anchor可是一门学问，先把John Long或者
Craig Luebben的书读上两遍，再去实践上若干次，再回去读上一遍，再去实践
第2 |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 2 So?
Lynn Hill is a small woman. Speaking of her, it makes me think of Craig Luebben
again, he used to co-teach Lynn's climbing camp. I bet it broke Hill's heart. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 so I use the sweet metolios climbing glove
great cheater glove for me to make my hands thicker
Luebben
heart. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 8 sad。他对中国攀岩的贡献是很大的。在阳朔，白河开发了不少路线。带圈子里面不少
人出去爬过。我真正喜欢上攀岩，是我的一个朋友和Craig在阳朔爬了14天以后写的日
记，让我第二年追随他们的足迹去了阳朔 |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 9 So so sorry to hear this, god it is terrible...I met him a few years ago. He
was an incredible guy. What a loss!
It has been a tragic year for climbers/mountaineers. First the loss of
Johnny Copp and Micah Dash (cannot remember the 3rd guys name), then Bachar
(I was psyched about his slide show in PDX which he didn't live to make
happen), now Lubben.
It is terrible.
He and the late Charlie Fowler discovered some fine climbing in the Four
Girls in China. |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 10 He was as elegant on ice as on rock... |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 11 收到别人的信才发现原来就是在西北的North Cascade，没想到这样的事情就发生在身
边。他们本来那天要爬同一条路线的，后来因故取消了。 |
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r*******a
发帖数: 268 | 12 以前没接触过攀岩，看到这个然后找了一些关于攀岩的东西看了一下，感觉很有意思。
想学... |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 14 也要开始攒rack了。
目前有的东西就是上次backcountry白送20块钱时买的BD stopper set #4-#13.
昨天上课的时候，有人建议Rock 1之前要有一套stopper set，一套hex和五个cam。
Craig Luebben的书上说，Hex里面最有用的是2.5-6.5cm之间的四五个，tri-cam里最有
用的是1.6/1.9/2.5/3.2cm的这四个。Cam不清楚，是不是从#1到#5?
看到local的店里（Pro mountain Sports）有一套Ultralight Starter Set，11 piece
，20.5 ounce。
http://www.promountainsports.com/hardware.shtml
Pro Fit Range (mm) Weight (g)
#4 Black Diamond Stopper 6 15
#5 Black Diamond Stopper 8 16
#6 Black Diamond Stopper 9 32
#7 Black |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
yccyccy (yy) 于 (Mon Feb 1 14:24:33 2010, 美东) 提到:
也要开始攒rack了。
目前有的东西就是上次backcountry白送20块钱时买的BD stopper set #4-#13.
昨天上课的时候，有人建议Rock 1之前要有一套stopper set，一套hex和五个cam。
Craig Luebben的书上说，Hex里面最有用的是2.5-6.5cm之间的四五个，tri-cam里最有
用的是1.6/1.9/2.5/3.2cm的这四个。Cam不清楚，是不是从#1到#5?
看到local的店里（Pro mountain Sports）有一套Ultralight Starter Set，11 piece
，20.5 ounce。
http://www.promountainsports.com/hardware.shtml
Pro Fit Range (mm) Weight (g)
#4 Black Diamond Stopper |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 you need to read John Long or Craig Luebben's anchor book. You need at least
to know the vocabulary to effectively communicate. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 you need to read John Long or Craig Luebben's anchor book. You need at least
to know the vocabulary to effectively communicate. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 18 你和饼干筒说的这点很有道理
上周末认识一人，说他最恐怖的一次经历，anchor放了两个cam，搭档正爬着，突然整
块石头脱落
大石头从他肩上擦过砸在ledge的绳子上把绳子砸成了六七段，然后滚了下去。也幸好
他是站在ledge上，才闪避躲开了石头只擦到肩膀。
当时下面还有两人正在爬，万幸没砸到，落完之后赶紧撤了
Whitney-Gilman, 这边很popular的一条经典路线
那个大石头也不知道被放cam了多少次
假如是我，估计肯定也follow别人的beta，做同样的事情。
我有本craig luebben的anchor，看了好几遍了
还是爬太少了，听到的道理就不那么明白 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 I personally like Luebben's book better, because it's more readable. I have
both though. |
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d*i
发帖数: 9453 | 20 发信人: snowbb (岩石衍生物), 信区: PUMA
标 题: Craig Luebben攀岩自救课程（完整版）
发信站: 北大未名站
INTRODUCTORY
Uh,just I guess the first I want to say ,have a grave situation ,if
you are climbing at the moment you on a route,and something
happens,…,somebody will get in bad situation eventually.And if
you know how to do it,you can get out of it easily.In sport
climbing,you don't really have to know self-rescue,cos' you
go up only 30 meters no more,and you come down.. It's not hard
to get in bad situations,because the grou |
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