c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 我好像是HFM那边磨的厉害，齿都磨掉一小半了。可能是我belay second比较多？可能
跟绳子也有关系，我大部分时间都是用10.2+的绳子。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 下次你过来的时候我瞧瞧
belay second按说磨得不那么厉害，绳子基本上不load的
我LFM那边磨损厉害，是因为rappel都用LFM那边
你是不是rappel都用的HFM？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 3 描述上说"a large eyelet combined with a sling permits controlled feeding"，
我怀疑是不是必须要用sling才能release? reverso 3只要用个biner就能撬。以前版本
的reverso也是得用sling |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 绳子是不load，但是拉过去的时候磨损。不过肯定没有rappel磨的厉害。我rappel一般
不看，穿进去是哪边就用哪边，free hang的时候看一眼，用HFM |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 5 这个不是特别清楚，因为能够看到那个release hole
我知道BD guide可以用sling release，也可以用biner release，reverso 3也是
如果Vader Apline只能用sling release的话，会有些不灵活，不过也不是太大的问题，
毕竟需要release的情况太少了，目前我还没遇到过。 真用到了，girth hitch一个sli
ng就行了 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 粗绳子会比细绳子磨损 belay device厉害一些
我去年大半年都在用9.8的绳子，感觉粗细正合适
后来换成10.2的，觉得很费劲
9.5的绳子，又觉得有点细了 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 7 Mammut或BD的dyneema sling，有比moosejaw更好的deal吗？ |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 8 进了一些Mammut，补偿上次丢的几根BD。Sanny的那个coupon不错，打折的东西还能用
，所以顺手进了一件Nano Puff，下次去Tahquitz就可以穿了。
doesn |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 $5.93 @ REI.com
性能价格全部超过BD oz biner
要动手的赶紧上吧 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 11 oh...可是rack上多种biner感觉看上去很不清爽阿。。。
我基本都oz了
sports draws有推荐的么？ 考虑买点去阳朔爬，还是就alpine draws凑合了？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12 alpine draws are fine. I personally use QDs for sport climbing though. If
you are going to get some QDs, one piece of important advice: get some with
biners without teeth, e.g. petzel spirit, wild country helium, and BD
positron. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 13 i don't climb sports routes at all..i suppose quickdraws are more stiff thus
easier to clip, but i am not sure how much it matters..
with |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 14 看你是否push limit了
不push，用alpine draw足够了
否则quickdraw 在clip的时候还是顺手一些
不在乎钱的话，petzl spirit express是最好用的
其他的，其实没太大区别 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 it makes some difference when you are leading at your limit and are nervous.
thus |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 16 恩， petzl spirit贵的离谱， 可能买些便宜的或者就算了。 |
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s********e
发帖数: 814 | 17 i don't like wiregate biner. owned one for only one season, and now the door
can not close perfectly. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 18 你用biner做啥了？ hanging dog？ cross load？
我的wiregate biner没有一个有问题的
door |
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s********e
发帖数: 814 | 19 funny. i never abused it or at least I don't recall.
btw, it is a BD oval wire carabiner |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 23 extra 35% off at checkout, add it to the shopping cart and you will see the
discount. |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 25 好像不是double pattern的？Hmm... |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 26 the galaxy 10mm is double patterned. I was debating between that and the
supersafe 10.2, leaned towards the extra toughness. Double pattern is nice
but I think threading both ends together in setting up the rappel will do
most of the time... |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 27 not all galaxies are, only those "duo"s are. I am done with 10.2 ropes. you
just need the middle mark to set up the rappel
nice |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 28 you are going with skinner ropes? I figure for cragging at yosemite, a pound
or two lighter is not as important as better abrasion resistance.
you |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 it's not the weight, it's just that fat ropes are hard to get through belay
devices. I decided something like 9.8 is good enough
pound |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 30 lol exactly
it is painful to pull 10.2mm rope through petzl reversal 3, not sure about
BD guide. 10.2mm is good for craiging though
belay |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 31 不错的deal，奖励个包子
可惜我实在绳子太多，就不买了
the |
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c******l
发帖数: 167 | 32 谢谢楼主推荐
他们家200（discount之前）以上免运费
所以差不多再随便买个7-8块的sling啊啥的小东西，就没有运费了 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 33 atc guide works ok with my 10.5 while belaying from the anchor with some
effort.
but we had such a big problem with pink's 9.5 in yosemite...oh man,
belaying follower was the toughest part of the climb!
her rope was old and twisted, so it's not jus the diameter but other things
about the rope matter too. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 34 oh, good point, thanks. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 35 I felt ATC guide can take fatter rope than reversal 3
that's why I am starting to use double/twin ropes for multi-pitch climb.
twisted? you mean kinky? that sucks, you could get trouble for lead belay as
well.
things |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 36 I used munter for top belay, much smoother than reversal 3. That may helped
the twist part, though.
And you can also have autolock for munter if wanted.
things |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 37 my rope wasn't twisted untill someone used munter... |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 38 Actually, munter is the source to cause the kink
I won't mind to use munter for alpine climb, but for regular multipitch clim
b, I try to avoid it
helped |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 39 I once used munter to belay up a friend, ended up spending the whole weekend
dealing with the rope twist. Avoiding like plague ever since.
clim |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 40 hmm...maybe i did? but then we should keep using munter...
now think about it, your rope was impossible to feed through even belaying
from harness. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 the key is to keep both strands paralell, and hand-after-hand instead of
running the rope.
weekend |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 42 rappelling using munter is usually fine, you can always find way to solve
the problem, belaying using munter is another story |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 43 I never had serious problem of kinking the rope, as long as I keep the
strands paralell and feed the rope hand after hand. |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 44 Almost always used munter for top belay, easier to setup, easy pulling
the rope, nature direction for the brake. |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 45 Yeah, I knew beforehand that you need to feed with both hands, etc, but it
did not work. Need practice, I guess. |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 46 So if you rappel on both strands, you munter on two biners? I think one
biner is not big enough for two knots... |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 47 Always auto-block mode with ATC guide, unless belay set up make it very
awkward, or the second is very likely to need some lowering... |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 48 both strands on the same biner
I don't use fat rope in alpine climb anyway |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 50 Thanks OP. My Petzl Fuse frays really easily, so I have been on the lookout
for a 10 mill more durable rope. Was seriously considering Flash, but my
friend's Flash is unbelievably stiff after years' use. (It looks really
bomber though.) Ended up ordered the supersafe too, lol... |
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