p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 1 多谢。我其实主要是在这三种型号中决定不下来买哪个：
BD Contact，你强烈推荐的
Petzl Irvis
Grivel G10
都是10齿钢制，重量，价格都差不多。我现在就是在等谁有<100的deal就买谁了。 |
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t**********n
发帖数: 102 | 2 black diamond的少根带子，叫leash吧，需要另外买。
petzl的上面带着。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 3 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
pinkeverlast (pink) 于 (Thu May 21 22:19:07 2009) 提到:
我想买all purpose的，轻的，clip比较smooth的。看了不少分享下吧
专门为sports climbing设计的quick draw一般dogbone都比较粗，挂上以后不会随便转
方向。all purpose的draw会用比较细的sling, 挂在bolt上会多多少少转点方向。如果
要很快地clip就容易back clip。而且wire gate虽然轻，clearance大，但clip起来没
有bent gate快，所以比较serious的人sports和trad的quick draw是分开的两套。但我
是觉得除非你sports天天爬5.12+，而且一直在push limit，all purpose的没啥区别。
我用过的两种专门为sports设计的draw
1. Black Diamond类似livewire的一种，现在BD网站上已经看不到了
2. Petzl Spirit: o |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 4 In RRG those were newly changed by Petzl two years ago
Not sure about other areas
Then |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 5 看了一遍，也就MSR WhisperLite Stove真不错，值得一买。
其它的，如果是彻底新手上路，
REI Half Dome tent, Petzl Tikka Headlamps还可以，
BD的helmet不知道怎么样，倒是不贵。
其它东西实在不咋样，ProLite我嫌重了，不喜欢。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 petzl grigri, item#: 729118
OR鬼子帽,721671
freedom hill 7, 703595 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 This is what I am thinking
or petzl flexlock/leverlock, they are a little pricy though |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 我都有。我觉得petzl的前面的binding不是很好用，不好转。但是中间的bar可以调节
的更细微一些，有两排洞。otherwise区别不是很大 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 从图上看, petzl前面的binding比较瘦, 不如grivel和BD的形状好
G12唯一的顾虑是尺寸, 我刚才试了G14, 放到最小, 还是比我的Trango大一些, 非要
plastic boots才能放进去
要是G12也有这个问题, 那就不买了 |
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p****l
发帖数: 1098 | 10 啥时候结束？我还得去REI先试试什么size正好。
相中petzl adjama harness了，bing上最便宜75。
这里是68。后悔没在double cashback的时候在backcounty买了。
这个harness怎么样？ |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 11 BD contact确实不错。我当时比较了BD，Grivel，Petzl三家的入门冰爪，最后挑了个
Grivel Air Tech（十二尺和几个其它有点），用起来是不错，后来才知道Grivel支持
藏独。
如果再回到从前，我就直接买个BD Contact，绝不会买Grivel这种支持藏独的厂家的产
品。
you |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 12 我晕, 你还调查这个了...
grivel的crampons从技术上说, 我觉得是最好的, 超过petzl
air tech系列, G12, G14,都相当经典.
不过对beginner来说, BD的contact足够用, 几乎可以用在beginner所需要的任何
terrian, 包括soft snow, ice crust, 甚至雪岩混和地带.
但是如果你到了比较advance的阶段, 一副crampons肯定不够用, 那时候选什么, 就很
有讲究了. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 看上了petzl fuse 9.4的绳子，可惜只有70m的，NND |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 14 我觉得你的用途，如果想买那个petzl的，不如买infinity |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 I assume you are talking about the belay biner.
I have a bunch of vaperlocks. They are a bit too small for munter hitches.
They don't work too well with reverso 3, which is the belay device I use for
multipitch cragging. A great lightweight biner for belaying is Petzl
Attache 3D. 50g and enough bearing surface for munter and reverso. it's a
little pricy though.
Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 18 recommended for general use, like bring one or two when ever you go climbing? |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 19 this pulley is very good for self crevasse rescue and rock rescue
I always have one on my harness
climbing? |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 It's THE best prusik minding pulley, and I have used almost everything < $50
. It's ideal for rigging a self-rescue system. For glacier climbs, everyone
brings a pulley, for alpine rock climbs, there should at least be 2 pulleys
in the whole team. A prusik mind pulley is needed for the anchor side, the
rope side can be anything.
Not recomended for rigging a hauling system.
climbing? |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 21 Cool. I just ordered the last one that REI has in stock.
I tried pulling my trad partner with binners and got him start moving using
a 1:9 system. I've been thinking about pulley since then.
50
everyone
pulleys |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 Rescue pulley is good for S&R guys, not for climbers
forget about fixe, it is not pursik minding pulley |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 Mini is best at prusik minding. Fixe is a general use pulley. Rescue is for
professional rescue, not self rescue, i.e. high strength gears, specific
rescue equipments. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 you guys are lucky
I paid full price when I got this pulley in 07 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 26 You are the lucky one. Three years of usage is priceless |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 27 结构上为什么FIXIE就不是prusik minding呢?
如果用prusik+FIXIE
难道prusik就咬不住绳子? |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 28 No, pusik minding means the pulley can "stop" the prusik to pass the pulley.
.. |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 29 那FIXIE两边的铁片不也能档住绳结么,
还是说因为底边不够平,
拉的时候抓结变形导致阻力大
pulley. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 31 形状不对，上面那部分是圆的，卡不住prusik
just |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 32 I mean, I don't why others can't make prusik minding pulleys, it's not
rocket science. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 33 太大
很多人用pulley不一定用prusik，所以这个本来就是附加需求 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 但是很多pulley都号称是prusik minding的，they just don't work well |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 35 钓鱼的装置里有个档珠,
同理,如果加个圆管在PRUSIK的上面,就可以挡了,I GUESS,
不过没意义了,直接买Prusik-Minding就可以了
just |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 36 还这么费劲
普通pulley + ATC一样可以用
不过你每增加一个东西，就增大一份摩擦力，你就要多花一分力气去拉绳子 |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 38 DUCTTAPE绕几圈? 算了, 我都不想麻烦了 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 39 btw: I am curious that you did not get a cinch. It is better than gri-gri on
almost every aspect. I believe petzl will announce the next generation of g
rigri very soon... |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 40 原因没搞懂。可以我自己玩我自己的吧？
我刚订了一个petzl的头盔。到时候可以去试试。
不过labor day有点太遥远了。
permit |
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q***z
发帖数: 554 | 43 After recommending a few friends to buy this model solely based on price, (i
use a BD Raven Pro, a friend uses a Petzl) they all regreted not spending the extra cash to get a quality axe after a recent trip to Mt. Washington in NH.
The weight, fit and finish, grip, quality of the axe spike and picks are for superior for the European brands (Italian brands) then this USA camp model. You will notice when you are throwing the axe into the steep icy & rocky terrain.
You get what you paid for, if you |
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q***z
发帖数: 554 | 44
that's true... the best axe I have used is from a friend, Grivel ice axe
made in Italy - 1980 edition, the axe is heavy and has super grip, does the
job better then the BD pro and petzl we have. (non-technical mtneering
climbing and general traveling)
Also the BD raven can be had for like 50 bucks? I remembered in EMS they
have 15% discount for all students and you can combine when it's on sale. |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 45 The simpler, the better, the safer.
Why bother with Petzl string? One more thing can confuse you.
of
locking
dont
unclear |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 46 Petzl should stop making that rubber thing. I checked my BD Oz draws. The
rubber band on bd was designed differently that you have no chance of making
such mistake. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 48 我的绳子也在20ft左右磨成这样过一次，可能搭在尖的石头棱角上受力磨的
petzl zephyr 10.3mm x 60m dry
后来拿到EMS问还能不能用，店员说算了，还是把绳子cut了吧
所以就变成50m的了 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 49 看你是否push limit了
不push，用alpine draw足够了
否则quickdraw 在clip的时候还是顺手一些
不在乎钱的话，petzl spirit express是最好用的
其他的，其实没太大区别 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 50 恩， petzl spirit贵的离谱， 可能买些便宜的或者就算了。 |
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