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发帖数: 11154 | 1 http://www.rifleshootermag.com/gunsmithing/RS_mountup_200902/in
Here's how to do it. Snug the rifle in a rifle cradle. If you don't have
a cradle, get one.
Swab the receiver and mount or ring bases with gun-cleaning solvent to
remove grease, grit and fingerprints. Follow with a dry cloth, then a
silicone-impregnated rag.
Put base screws in a coffee saucer. If you don't, you'll lose one or
more. Guaranteed.
Set the base on the receiver and start the screws using a close-fitting
magnetic screwdriver tip--the tip only. After screws are seated, add the
screwdriver handle and snug them alternately. Check bolt clearance by
cycling the action before tightening the screws. If you feel any undue
resistance, back off the offending screw and replace with a shorter one
or grind to fit.
Before attaching rings or giving base screws a final turn, set your
scope on the base to check ring spacing and ensure that you'll get
proper eye relief. Variable scopes with short sections of free tube can
limit your options. Some scope bases can be reversed to your benefit.
If you don't see how you can place the scope where you want it, consider
another base or extension rings. While rail-type bases aren't trim, they
typically offer more latitude in sight placement.
Tighten the base screws as if you were paid by the inch-pound but will
be docked a month's wages if you twist one off. Loc-Tite is not
necessary, in my view. If you wish to lock those threads, use blue Loc-
Tite; it allows screw removal more readily than the red version.
Leave Ruger-style rings snug but not tight to the receiver so the scope
can self-center.
Separate the rings, using the saucer to hold ring screws. Keep the ring
halves paired and the ring ends oriented as they came from the package.
CNC machining is supposed to make such matching unnecessary, but it's
still a good idea.
Depending on mount design, you'll first affix rings to base or clamp
them lightly to the scope tube. Run the ring screws in finger-tight. If
the rings are vertically split, heed directions as to the tightening
sequence of all screws. You'll want a gap in both ring junctures when
the scope is secured. It doesn't matter whether the split is vertical or
horizontal; don't let ring halves contact each other.
While the scope is still loose in the rings but the lower ring or ring
juncture solidly affixed to the scope base or rifle, slide the scope
forward until you get proper eye relief.
Check eye relief prone and sitting, not just offhand. Wear heavy clothes
as well as light. Scope position will be a compromise, but you'll want
the eyepiece to clear your brow during recoil every time.
Most hunters place the scope too far back for prone or uphill shots, and
the ocular ring prints a half-moon between their eyes.
As a rule of thumb, I start with the ocular lens directly over the rear
guard screw--after adjusting the focusing ring for a sharp reticle
image. Then I mark ring position on the tube with a pencil. It's best to
leave 1/8 inch between rings and any junctures in the scope tube.
Next, turn the scope until the vertical reticle wire is lined up with
your rifle's buttplate. Use a square or vertical edge or Wheeler
Engineering's Level Level Level to check. If the reticle is not plumb,
you will cant the rifle and miss at extended range.
Snug ring screws alternately, as you'd tighten lug nuts when changing a
tire. Before finishing, see that the gaps between ring halves appear
equal. These screws needn't be as tight as base screws. Over-tightening
can mar and even deform a scope tube.
Bore-sight the rifle. If your mount base allows you to adjust ring
position for windage, run the scope's windage dial to its center
position (count clicks from one stop to the other, then come back half
that number) and bore-sight using the base screws. That way, you'll keep
as much windage adjustment as possible and maintain the erector assembly
in the middle of the tube. |
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