f*****e 发帖数: 57 | 1 On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only
lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses.
It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West
Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain
is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is
on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet.
Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents
happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our
snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step
because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
moment I had the ice axe on one hand, and a pole on the other. Somehow I
didn't go straight down the ridge but veered to the right. I didn't think
it was a big deal as the snow was loose, and tried to stop myself using ice
axe and elbow. But I couldn't stop, and the sliding continued and got
faster. In a panic I threw away the pole and tried self-arrest but it came
to no avail: the snow was too loose and went down with me in a small
avalanche. I slid past a few trees and thought, "I should have my helmet on
". Then my ice axe got knocked off by a tree, this turned out to be a
blessing in disguise, as it is useless in loose snow and I would try to
arrest myself again if I had it in hand. I kept sliding and my sunglasses
were covered with snow, so I had to knock it off my head. I slid past more
trees and finally I saw the tree that saved my life: it is a small one
pointing down the slope instead of straight up. I grabbed it with both
hands and came to a stop. After a minute of gathering myself, I yelled "I
am okay" and told other party members that I would climb back up. Looking
down the slope, if I didn't stop, I had about another 1000 vertical feet to
go before hitting the valley.
To climb back up was not an easy task. The slope is really steep, and I
guess the steepest section is over 60 degree. Since I had already lost my
ice axe and one pole, I used my only pole left and tried to kick step up.
But I felt not stable at all so I took off one snowshoe and used it to belay
myself while kicking steps. It turned out working much better than an ice
axe on the deep and loose snow. I thought I was following the chute I slid
down but actually I climbed up another chute, so I didn't recover my ice axe
or sunglasses. When I finally got up, I was about 80 feet away from the
party and needed to traverse over a steep slope with unstable snow. The
party leader Andy asked me to wait while they were working out a solution.
The final solution worked out well: Craig belayed Erik to kick a path and
reach me. Erik wrapped the rope around a tree and I used the rope as a hand
line(double arm wrap) to cross the slope. Then Craig belayed Erik back.
I was finally safe.
The event hasn't fully sink in yet. I need to think long and hard about the
danger of mountain sports. I am not eager to buy a new ice axe. | s****t 发帖数: 746 | 2 comfort!好好休息一阵。
deep snow确实有风险,
我唯一一次fall也是发生在deep snow condition走下坡的时候,
self arrest也没太起到制动作用,而且太多散雪,行动很受限制。
我感觉fresh deep snow的时候还是不要用glissading,
尽量用plunge step,snow shoe也可以作一些横切的zigzag。
不要和大部队分开走,毕竟雪面下面的情况不详。
分太开了,万一掉到洞里面或者发生各种意外,别人搞不好根本不知道。
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| o*****e 发帖数: 379 | 3 //comfort
Ridge上别坐滑了,特别现在已经春夏之交,碰到雪檐塌了也很危险的。如果雪足够深
,snowshoe也可以plunge step的,不够深或者松,就侧过来一步一个脚印慢慢下。
我碰到的好些leader,除非雪崩风险实在太大,多半喜欢在ridge下面一点点的雪坡上
走...
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| l*****e 发帖数: 494 | 4 cft.
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| S********t 发帖数: 18987 | 5 CFT
雪松的话, 把腿张成八字,可以缓缓下,
不让速度过快, 保持一切在可控范围
随时可切换成plunge step | T********d 发帖数: 621 | 6 I am so glad that u r ok!
On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch.
★ Sent from iPhone App: iReader Mitbbs 6.81 - iPhone Lite
【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| b***y 发帖数: 824 | 7 Cft, take your time resting.
★ Sent from iPhone App: iReader Mitbbs 6.88 - iPhone Lite | N**D 发帖数: 10322 | 8 还是在家看laker被痛扁比较安全
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| y*****y 发帖数: 3433 | 9 Glad to hear you are all right. Take your time to rest.
Do not glisside with snowshoes on.
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| q*c 发帖数: 17993 | 10 comfort
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| | | w****w 发帖数: 14828 | | T*********e 发帖数: 39815 | 12 sounds a scary experience.
on steep and soft snow, it is almost not possible to do self arrest,
especially with snowshoes on.
glassiding with snowshoes on is dangerous...
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【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. My only : lost is an ice axe and a pair of sunglasses. : It was a Mountaineer's scramble trip. Our original destination was West : Granite, but changed to Pratt Mountain because of cornices. Pratt Mountain : is supposed to have a "safe" route to the summit following the ridge. It is : on the ridge that I slipped off for about 300 vertical feet. : Going up to the summit was uneventful, as we all know, most accidents : happened on the way down. There was a lot of fresh snow, and we all had our : snowshoes on. On a steep section of the ridge, I couldn't plunge step : because of the snowshoes, so I decided to sit down and slide down, at the
| f*****e 发帖数: 57 | 13 It's a short steep steep section about 10 feet long, and already compacted
on the way up. The person in front of me tried to walk down but slipped, so
I thought I should just do a "preemptive" sit down.
The major mistake I made there is not realizing that I could slip off the
ridge and not be able to stop right away when that happened. The party
agreed later that we should take off our snowshoes and postholing down.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : sounds a scary experience. : on steep and soft snow, it is almost not possible to do self arrest, : especially with snowshoes on. : glassiding with snowshoes on is dangerous... : : only : Mountain : is : our
| T*********e 发帖数: 39815 | 14 yep, I agree that descending without snowshoes is safer
anyway, I am glad to see you are fine. and you gained experience.
so
【在 f*****e 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : It's a short steep steep section about 10 feet long, and already compacted : on the way up. The person in front of me tried to walk down but slipped, so : I thought I should just do a "preemptive" sit down. : The major mistake I made there is not realizing that I could slip off the : ridge and not be able to stop right away when that happened. The party : agreed later that we should take off our snowshoes and postholing down.
| f*****e 发帖数: 57 | 15 I won't be able to go to Denny this Sunday. I will stay away from the
mountains for a while.
A few days ago we just discussed the pros and cons of using leash on the ice
axe. This time not using a leash is a great choice for me. Had I used a
leash, I would probably get injured by the axe, or try to regain the axe to
do the useless arrests.
【在 T********d 的大作中提到】![](/moin_static193/solenoid/img/up.png) : I am so glad that u r ok! : : On Friday I had a serious accident, but came out without a scratch. : ★ Sent from iPhone App: iReader Mitbbs 6.81 - iPhone Lite
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