a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 1 Quite expensive, wonder if it is worthy. But with my body weight, for
outdoor climbing, I thought it would be really a good investment. Especially
when belaying lead climb when the climber takes a dynamic fall. |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 has nothing to do with your weight. actually I prefer not using a grigri
when I am belaying a leader
Especially
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: Quite expensive, wonder if it is worthy. But with my body weight, for
: outdoor climbing, I thought it would be really a good investment. Especially
: when belaying lead climb when the climber takes a dynamic fall.
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 3 why you said nothing to do with my body weight? i am 110 1bs, one of my
friends is like 170 1bs something. we are more than 50 1bs difference. last
weekend i was belaying him top roping a 5.10c. and he had a dynamic fall
when working at the crux. i got yanked up and dislocation away from where i
stood, luckily i asked another friend to stand right next to me, to grab me
if ever that could happen.
at the least in that case, if i got pull up into the air or moved away from
the original standing balancing status, my hands won't leave the rope, but
the rope cna be stopped by the auto-locking mechanism which is a feature of
the grigri... is that right?
i just don't understand why there is nothing to do with body weight. please
do elaborate. thanks. |
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 so why do you think a grigri can compensate the 50lbs difference?
what you need is to anchor yourself indeed
last
i
me
from
of
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: why you said nothing to do with my body weight? i am 110 1bs, one of my
: friends is like 170 1bs something. we are more than 50 1bs difference. last
: weekend i was belaying him top roping a 5.10c. and he had a dynamic fall
: when working at the crux. i got yanked up and dislocation away from where i
: stood, luckily i asked another friend to stand right next to me, to grab me
: if ever that could happen.
: at the least in that case, if i got pull up into the air or moved away from
: the original standing balancing status, my hands won't leave the rope, but
: the rope cna be stopped by the auto-locking mechanism which is a feature of
: the grigri... is that right?
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 5 差50磅不是啥大事.当然前提是belayer习惯给比自己重50 lb的人belay.
好像体重差1/2才是个大事.
lead belay关键是slack给多少. grigri并不能减少slack.
不过能避免手上的rope burn,
可以只用一只手belya,能闲出一只手做别的.
对方hangdog时可以轻松很多.
grigri 2值这个钱,我的gym里grigri 2曾经脱销过.
last
i
me
from
of
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: why you said nothing to do with my body weight? i am 110 1bs, one of my
: friends is like 170 1bs something. we are more than 50 1bs difference. last
: weekend i was belaying him top roping a 5.10c. and he had a dynamic fall
: when working at the crux. i got yanked up and dislocation away from where i
: stood, luckily i asked another friend to stand right next to me, to grab me
: if ever that could happen.
: at the least in that case, if i got pull up into the air or moved away from
: the original standing balancing status, my hands won't leave the rope, but
: the rope cna be stopped by the auto-locking mechanism which is a feature of
: the grigri... is that right?
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 6 my assumption is that - in a condition where anchoring the belayer is not
possible, at the least then grigri can help to stop unnecessary of rope-out-
of-control situation, given when suddenly dislocated, the belayer might
remove a hand away from the rope.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: so why do you think a grigri can compensate the 50lbs difference?
: what you need is to anchor yourself indeed
:
: last
: i
: me
: from
: of
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 7 rope burn and also getting caught by the belay device, both can be avoided
with grigri
as for lead belay, i think it is also very important to actively taking in
slack once the lead climber clips in a quickdraw.
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 差50磅不是啥大事.当然前提是belayer习惯给比自己重50 lb的人belay.
: 好像体重差1/2才是个大事.
: lead belay关键是slack给多少. grigri并不能减少slack.
: 不过能避免手上的rope burn,
: 可以只用一只手belya,能闲出一只手做别的.
: 对方hangdog时可以轻松很多.
: grigri 2值这个钱,我的gym里grigri 2曾经脱销过.
:
: last
: i
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 Then what if the leader falls at the 2nd bolt? He will simply pull you up an
d have a ground fall.
Anchoring yourself is more important. The autolocking of the grigri is a goo
d backup, but can not replace a floor anchor.
If your leader is heavier than you for more then 50lbs, and you can not anch
or yourself, you should find another belayer, or just don't climb this damn
route.
out-
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: my assumption is that - in a condition where anchoring the belayer is not
: possible, at the least then grigri can help to stop unnecessary of rope-out-
: of-control situation, given when suddenly dislocated, the belayer might
: remove a hand away from the rope.
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 9 high clip 几次clip不上去怎么办?
如果belayer精力集中.grigri就是多剩出一只手而已.
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: rope burn and also getting caught by the belay device, both can be avoided
: with grigri
: as for lead belay, i think it is also very important to actively taking in
: slack once the lead climber clips in a quickdraw.
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 10 for high clip, we always yell "clipping", and after done with it, we will
say "done".. so the belayer can take in slack.
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: high clip 几次clip不上去怎么办?
: 如果belayer精力集中.grigri就是多剩出一只手而已.
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 the grigri is going to make the situation much worse because it's much more
static than a regular belay device
last
i
me
from
of
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: why you said nothing to do with my body weight? i am 110 1bs, one of my
: friends is like 170 1bs something. we are more than 50 1bs difference. last
: weekend i was belaying him top roping a 5.10c. and he had a dynamic fall
: when working at the crux. i got yanked up and dislocation away from where i
: stood, luckily i asked another friend to stand right next to me, to grab me
: if ever that could happen.
: at the least in that case, if i got pull up into the air or moved away from
: the original standing balancing status, my hands won't leave the rope, but
: the rope cna be stopped by the auto-locking mechanism which is a feature of
: the grigri... is that right?
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12 remember: stopping the fall is HALF of the function of the belay. reducing
the impact is th other half. an ATC usually slips at 2.5kN and a grigri
easily grips 10kN. you have a much bigger chance to be tea bagged belaying
a big guy using a grigri than a regular belay device. if the weight
difference is a big concern, just don't climb with them.
more
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: the grigri is going to make the situation much worse because it's much more
: static than a regular belay device
:
: last
: i
: me
: from
: of
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 13 嗯。正是减少slack主要是靠交流和判断，还有反应。和belay device没关系。
如果不走神，grigri和普通的belay device比，并不能减少slack。
据说grigri使用不当，很容易导致fatal failure。
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: for high clip, we always yell "clipping", and after done with it, we will
: say "done".. so the belayer can take in slack.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14
what fatal failure?
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 嗯。正是减少slack主要是靠交流和判断，还有反应。和belay device没关系。
: 如果不走神，grigri和普通的belay device比，并不能减少slack。
: 据说grigri使用不当，很容易导致fatal failure。
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 15 well i'll just buy longer slings then, so i can anchor myself. the fact is,
some friends are just simply heavier than me, and i am so light...
belaying
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: remember: stopping the fall is HALF of the function of the belay. reducing
: the impact is th other half. an ATC usually slips at 2.5kN and a grigri
: easily grips 10kN. you have a much bigger chance to be tea bagged belaying
: a big guy using a grigri than a regular belay device. if the weight
: difference is a big concern, just don't climb with them.
:
: more
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 16 就是使用不当,或者碰巧误操作.
上lead 课的时候,老头给我们演示了一下.
轻轻一碰grigri就完全off belay了.
然后还介绍了一种拿grigri的方式可以避免这种情况,但是我也没有,也没记住.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
:
: what fatal failure?
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 17 没想明白
如果手放在break的位置，怎么可能就off belay了？
如果手都不在break的位置，那是belay技术就有问题
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 就是使用不当,或者碰巧误操作.
: 上lead 课的时候,老头给我们演示了一下.
: 轻轻一碰grigri就完全off belay了.
: 然后还介绍了一种拿grigri的方式可以避免这种情况,但是我也没有,也没记住.
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 18 就是拿grigri的方式不对.或者给slack的时候得误操作.
当然正常belay的时候都不碰grigri
我感觉等到mulit pitch的时候再买grigri也不迟.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 没想明白
: 如果手放在break的位置，怎么可能就off belay了？
: 如果手都不在break的位置，那是belay技术就有问题
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 19 为什么multi pitch的时候就要gri gri？
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 就是拿grigri的方式不对.或者给slack的时候得误操作.
: 当然正常belay的时候都不碰grigri
: 我感觉等到mulit pitch的时候再买grigri也不迟.
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 20 省力气...
不是multi pitch 不差那点力气.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 为什么multi pitch的时候就要gri gri？
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 21 省力气体现在？
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 省力气...
: 不是multi pitch 不差那点力气.
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 22 最起码现在都是站在地面给别人belay.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 省力气体现在？
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 23 Haven't find much benefit using Grigri except aid belay and hanging dog finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially when I'm leading a route. |
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 24 but why grigri is so expensive??? still don't get it.
finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially
when I'm leading a route.
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Haven't find much benefit using Grigri except aid belay and hanging dog finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially when I'm leading a route.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 25 when you are belaying for hours, literally, it's worth the money
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: but why grigri is so expensive??? still don't get it.
:
: finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially
: when I'm leading a route.
|
