y******e
发帖数: 2807 | 1 室内5.10以上的好些点我觉得对腿儿短的来说就是悲剧啊，有没有解决之道？ | c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 5.10以上是指5.11?有解决之道了告诉我一声
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 室内5.10以上的好些点我觉得对腿儿短的来说就是悲剧啊，有没有解决之道？
| y******e
发帖数: 2807 | 3 5.10我这儿分了a，b，5.11我全部悲剧
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 5.10以上是指5.11?有解决之道了告诉我一声
| b***y
发帖数: 824 | 4 Nice, please remember to share the trick when you fly up 5.11
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 5.10我这儿分了a，b，5.11我全部悲剧
| a*********i
发帖数: 196 | 5 co-
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Nice, please remember to share the trick when you fly up 5.11
| y******e
发帖数: 2807 | | a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 7 we have a, b, c and d. a, b fine with me. c, sketchy, depends on route. some
c would make my fingers numb; some c because i am too short, i cannot reach
the next hole, perhpas need to practice sort of dyno move... :(
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 5.10我这儿分了a，b，5.11我全部悲剧
| S********g
发帖数: 922 | 8 If you got to 5.10 level and are still having those questions, it usually
means rating of your gym is too soft, hehe...;-)
Check the profile of Lynn Hill, what she has done, and see how tall she is?
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 这么沉啃的问题大家为啥要起哄啊
| y******e
发帖数: 2807 | 9 好吧我露怯了，爬前不准备， 爬后不总结，业余不研究，就这么随便一问，还是腿短
腿长这么没技术含量的问题，太不严肃了。。。做伸展运动去了。。。
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: If you got to 5.10 level and are still having those questions, it usually
: means rating of your gym is too soft, hehe...;-)
: Check the profile of Lynn Hill, what she has done, and see how tall she is?
| s****y
发帖数: 267 | 10 It is normal. We have a stargazing certified 5.10 climber here in our gym
still grudgeing about how I can easily go over some crux while she has to
struggle just because I am tall. We also have a short guy who can boulder V5
but in rare cases he can climb some V3s. Simply just because he can not
reach the next hold even when he fully opens his arms. But there are also
routes which are very unfriendly to tall guys, especially in boulder
problems. The further you can extend your limbs, the easier you can be close
to the wall.
But it is true that below 5.11 level, it rarely requires true dyno moves.
Sometimes you feel you have to. That is just because you feel you will lose
control of your body in the move. You sounds like me, who dont trust ropes.
If so, do more boulder training. You dont have to practice up high there,
where you have to solve two problems altogether at the same time, technical
moves and mental hesitations. Take it down. Learn you close to the ground
first then move up.
Also, as a beginner, we all like to focus on hands. Then we are told to
focus on footwork by some ppl with more experiences. But what is often
ignored is the tension and the move of your core. As emphasised in the self-
coach climber book, core is very important in your body kinetic. you need
the core to pass through the force coming from you lower body or upper body.
Especially, in the moves you mentioned, you need to keep the tension of
your core.
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 好吧我露怯了，爬前不准备， 爬后不总结，业余不研究，就这么随便一问，还是腿短
: 腿长这么没技术含量的问题，太不严肃了。。。做伸展运动去了。。。
| T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 除非设线人是高个子，并且从来不考虑身高矮的
一般来说，都不是问题
【在 y******e 的大作中提到】
: 室内5.10以上的好些点我觉得对腿儿短的来说就是悲剧啊，有没有解决之道？
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