c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 I think smith's rating is pretty stiff on the 5.6-5.7 range, but becomes
soft on 5.8-5.9. I don't lead 5.9s as confidently at Vantage as Smith.
I heard Prime Rib's rating is rather soft. I'll see.
sports |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 2 I feel Red Rocks quite a bit easier than Yosemite...I was comfortable
leading 5.9s at Red Rocks and the 5.8s multi-pitch were easy. However, I
didn't venture anywhere beyond 5.8 in Yosemite since the 5.8s felt stiff.
Crack in both places felt similar. It was things that other than crack that
were foreign to me and freaked me out. I even declared that I refuse to lead
any friction slab after day 3 - I was mentally exhausted after the 5.8R slab
variation on Snake Dike.
Since our rating system is " |
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m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 3 不明白，为啥5.12以上很少有TR？GYM里不都是些5.12的TR的线路么？我们都是
先练习到TR可以了才试Lead的，但至少也低两个级别。
因为我们这里室外的Sport线都在5.11s,5.12s偏多，天气好的时候也人多，5.8s
5.9s就那么几条线，早就被各种的Group占完且一占就是一天。如果爬5.11s,5.12s
就有好多空的线路可玩啊。就象你到雪场去滑雪，滑黑道和以上的都可以找到不
排队的Lift，但是绿蓝道都排好长的队一样。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 This is true for most sports too. You need a base of moderate intensity to
push for the limit. I don't do any bouldering but I do lots of roped
climbing. I was stuck on 5.10c/d TR for at least a year without any progress
. However, during that whole year, I did tons of high 10s and 9s, which I
think helped me finally push through the barrier. |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 5 Handren's book is good. However, if you just go for one or two days with
sports lines, maybe information on MP is enough. $5 itune download. The most
difficult part is the approach, for which the description from most books
can be hard to follow.
Red Rock sports climb rating is soft. So 5.9, 10- lines feature bolts far
apart, scary for beginners considering rock breaks once in a while. 5.10+
lines are reasonably protected. Routes rated 5.11 and up are much better
bolted. You might find leading s... 阅读全帖 |
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a*****y
发帖数: 367 | 8 Race的ski也分很多种的。通常来说，分为FIS和非FIS的。
FIS就是符合国际雪联标准的比赛板，不是运动员出生很
难驾驭。而非FIS板又分顶级的和入门级别的。普通人练习
达到一定程度完全可以驾驭，但是否购买Race的板子一定要
根据自己的需求。
举几个简单的例子：
FIS 板：
Atomic D2 SL race stock, Atomic D2 GS race stock, Fischer RC4 SL race stock,
Fischer RC4 GS race stock, Head iSL race stock, Head iGS race stock.....
大众竞技板顶级：
Atomic D2 SL, Atomic race Ti(去年的SL12）; Fischer RC4 WC SC, Fischer RC4 WC
RC; Head isupershape series.
大众级别入门板：
老款Atomic SL10, Atomic GS10; Fischer Race pro, Rossignol 9S... |
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w*******r
发帖数: 7276 | 9 25Y free -- 17.9s
25Y fly -- 18.6s
25Y back --21.07s
25Y breast -- 26.2s
50Y free -- 39.6s
100Y medley -- 1m45s
He has placed 6th,8th,10th,12th,15th in the county's 7-8 y pentathlon race.
I am pretty happy since this is his first official race for three of the
events. And kids in front of him are mostly 8 y old. |
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w*******r
发帖数: 7276 | 10 The first summer season of competitive swimming ended yesterday for my 7y
and 5y olds. Here is the summary:
In the county wide swim conference finals ( 15 swim clubs, more than 1000
swimmers),
my 7y old (7~8 age group) has got
1st place in 25x4 mixed medlay relay ( he swims butterfly), total time 1'16''
6th place in butterfly( 18.9s)
8th place in freestyle(17.14s)
He did not swim the other two strokes because leagues limit each swimmer to
2 strokes.
My 5y old ( 5~6 age group) has got
4th place i |
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d**y
发帖数: 18174 | 11 iso划频的情况下，速度可以是34秒左右或者30秒左右，说明你单个动作划水路线稳定
，不会因为加力而变形。这很好。
iso速度的情况下，看第二个100米，stroke count是8到13。在你这个速度下，速度应
该随划频的提高几乎线性提高，而实测没有。我觉得有三个可能：1）手臂动作有点不
到位了，划水线路变短了，或者因为划频提高有变形，比如手掌在后半程或许斜着出水
，没有正对后面。2）划/推水力量不够，或者发力不再是均匀加速；如你前面说的，觉
得肱三头肌累，说明在划频提高从而推水时间缩短的情况下，可能这块肌肉的力量有点
达不到。3）整体配合有点问题，打水没跟上，妨碍了转体；或者转体节奏没跟上；这
都会影响划水线路。
第一段，28.9s用13 stroke cycles，34.1s用10 stroke cycles。你游完28.9之后心率
是不是增加了很多？我有此猜测是因为34.1/10与30.6/11的划频差不多，但是速度差距
大；心率上升很多的时候，通常动作的幅度会变小，肌肉收缩会变慢。如果是这样，需
要偶尔做大力量练习，让心脏适应。类似于变速跑的途中冲刺，告诉身体不要因为心率
的... 阅读全帖 |
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r*******n
发帖数: 131 | 12 首先我觉得，大部分人都过分关注高肘了。主要因为这个最容易看出问题，感觉最容易
练。但自由泳是一个整体身体协调的过程，先身体平衡，转身发力，手腿timing，最后
才是高肘的catch,pull。前面的没练好，过分注重练高肘没有太大帮助
当然性别，身高有别，但我觉得平时游长距离，不能游到平均1:45/100yards，说明整
体的姿态和节奏有问题，高肘并不是最大的短板
我现在觉得最重要，经常练的，是两次腿，当然也有很多对应的drill。主要就是通过
打腿initiate身体的rotation，并且在这个过程中完成同侧手臂的catch和另一侧手臂
的extention。同时打腿还要注意不要drop lower body，保持屁股在水面。这个动作练
了快半年了，才刚刚觉得偶尔能感受到某个point，但还是做不好
再说一个标准吧，有garmin swim的话可以参考一下
游长距离的时候，average stroke rate应该在1.7-1.9s/cycle，就是说一分钟左右手
应该各划30多下，否则就是over gliding了。关键在于recovery要快，pull完了马上
entry。还... 阅读全帖 |
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l********r
发帖数: 868 | 14 9 hearts, 4s(3), 9s(3), 7s(3), 8s(3), 6s(3)
total 24.
but there could be runner runner new pair on turn and river, so it's a
little higher than 24. |
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l********r
发帖数: 868 | 15 Yes I think you should especially if there's ante there. With R close to 7,
you have to make a move. The bad news is someone moved in before you, but
the good news is he didn't have many chips either so his hand may not be
very good.
If you caught pocket 9s it's the best result. |
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A**U
发帖数: 1116 | 16 Pocket 9s, raised to 8 chips in early position. One loose guy called heads-
up.
Flop came K97 rainbow. I bet 7, he called.
Turn A. I check, he checked.
River 9. I bet 20, he folded but accidentally flipped his cards over, 57
offsuite. I was speechless. |
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m*****i
发帖数: 1873 | 17 pocket 10 10 flop set,
flop 10 9s 2s , one guy bet 15$ botton called, button called,I just called.
turn is 3s, I check, another check, botton bet 35$, I called, another guy
called, river is Jh, both check to the botton, botton bet 150$, should i
call here?? |
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l*******o
发帖数: 78 | 18 No, he did not have pocket 9s, or he would have bet on the flop to block the
flush draws. The all-in on the river is because he's not afraid of flushes
any more.
It is an absolutely horrible lay down. In fact I think you played the whole
hand, even the preflop. Should fold preflop unless on blinds, bet small on
the flop to find out where your Js were, raise or fold on the turn, call the
all-in on the river. |
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i********r
发帖数: 1153 | 19 bluesinsoul is me
PokerStars Game #14799209450: Hold'em No Limit ($1/$2) - 2008/01/24 - 20:32
Table 'Juliet II' 6-max Seat #4 is the button
Seat 1: jonaport ($371.75 in chips)
Seat 2: TheLife ($200 in chips)
Seat 3: dudebrochill ($215 in chips)
Seat 4: martijnberg ($243.15 in chips)
Seat 5: BallCup ($322.45 in chips)
Seat 6: bluesinsoul ($200 in chips)
BallCup: posts small blind $1
bluesinsoul: posts big blind $2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to bluesinsoul [8h 9s]
jonaport: folds
TheLife: folds
dud |
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d**x
发帖数: 1934 | 20 1/2的桌子手里100，别人都至少3，400百。。。
狂fold。。。最后剩下$60，手里A4，flop 235，raise 20, button reraise to
40，我push all-in,其实都不能说push。。人家手里面$400+。。turn, river都是
nothing
一翻拍傻眼了。。。46。。。
小亏一百。。。幸亏第一天赢得多。。。。
第一天最后一把，我是BB，手里$500，AsAx 10xBB，2 callers，
Flop 5s7sAx，perfect....check, UTG check, sb($300) raised $40, call, UTG
fold...
Turn 9s,有点恐慌，居然还是spade，check, last raiser pushed in $80，想了想，
Call之，心里感觉river会有579其中一张，但是心里还是打鼓。
Lucky river: 5d. Check again, 对方all-in。。fast call。。。那哥们一看，傻眼
了。。。。他手中A5。。。。=_=原来从一开始就吃定他了。。。哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈 |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 21 1/2NL, live in AC.
got QcTc on button.
UTG (new guy) raised to $7, 3 callers, i called. $7 is meaningless nowadays
besides a pot sweetener. (pot $30)
flop: KhJd7s. UTG bet $25, all folded to me, looking at my open ended, vs. a
protecting bet (Kx) to me, i decided to call. (pot $80)
turn: 9s, good stuff. UTG bet $25 again, i didn't want to play this too slow
, raised to $75, he called pretty quickly. hmm? maybe i underestimated him?
a set, KsXs? ... (pot $230).
river: 7d, not very pretty. he chec |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 22 small money but i'm mad with mself...
when i said i misfoled quad 9s, everyone was laughing like i lied. so i had
to post it online and let them see see.
anyway, i wiped out that guy later with QQ. |
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m*****i
发帖数: 1873 | 23 Full Tilt Poker Game #9859705952: Table Bonanza (6 max) - $1/$2 - No Limit
Hold'em - 20:26:49 ET - 2009/01/04
Seat 1: hack68 ($201.30)
Seat 2: DragonRib ($227)
Seat 3: CS8 ($200)
Seat 4: BigEasy44 ($167.70)
Seat 5: spursw0n ($194)
Seat 6: yanjiegou2007 ($212)
spursw0n posts the small blind of $1
yanjiegou2007 posts the big blind of $2
The button is in seat #4
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to yanjiegou2007 [Ks 9s]
hack68 folds
DragonRib folds
CS8 folds
BigEasy44 has 15 seconds left to act
BigEasy44 fo |
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D*A
发帖数: 1169 | 24 假期和朋友们玩了很多小额0.1/2的home game，
时间长了大家有点boring，后来就发明了hold'em with wild cards，调剂一下
如同麻将里的百搭，具体规则如下：
加入两张wild cards，JOKER and joker
if you hold JOKER, you can change the points of another hole card
say，Kc to Ac
if you hold joker, you can change the suit of another hole card
say, 9s to 9c
if you hold both, you can change the points and suit of one board card
of you own choice
say, 2c to Ad
but you can not change to duplicate any cards already shown, means the board
cards or any player's hole cards at |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 25 昨天13500KO有两把关键手打得极臭。
QJo at SB，MP guy (loose aggressive, all-in with bottom pair, but has big
stack) raises 3xBB, one short stack shoves with 2BB，i think for a min and
fold, BB calls.
board: JJT-7-2, BB bets on turn and kicks MP out. BB has 33 and shove guy
got J3o.
这把也就算了，毕竟俺stack还不错。
另一把，也是QJo，UTG limps，i limp(有点怕后面一小子), SB and BB in too.
flop: Q7s5s，UTG bets 2/3 pot，i put him on a weaker Q and raise double, he
hesitates but calls. turn is 9s, he shoves last 2000, i barely cover him
and call.. |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 26 哈哈，没有俺上次误点击fold了quad 9s痛苦。
RAISE |
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m*****i
发帖数: 1873 | 27 Full Tilt Poker Game #11044623305: Table Chimp (deep 6) - $1/$2 - No Limit
Hold'em - 5:03:51 ET - 2009/03/09
Seat 1: bucfanjay ($175.50)
Seat 2: burlee ($139)
Seat 3: lxj803 ($505.05)
Seat 4: thursd4y ($203)
Seat 5: yanjiegou2007 ($305.15)
Seat 6: trazz23 ($200)
lxj803 posts the small blind of $1
thursd4y posts the big blind of $2
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to yanjiegou2007 [9h 9s]
yanjiegou2007 raises to $7
trazz23 calls $7
bucfanjay folds
burlee calls $7
lxj803 folds
thu |
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y********n
发帖数: 2063 | 28 Full Tilt Poker Game #12227393657: Tier One $13+$0.75 Sit & Go (91387408),
Table 1 - 10/20 - No Limit Hold'em - 1:04:42 ET - 2009/05/15
Seat 1: poker4fun222 (1,400)
Seat 2: smokinmarley (1,600)
smokinmarley posts the small blind of 10
poker4fun222 posts the big blind of 20
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to poker4fun222 [9s Ah]
smokinmarley calls 10
poker4fun222 raises to 100
smokinmarley calls 80
*** FLOP *** [3d 5s 8s]
poker4fun222 bets 120
smokinmarley raises to 380
poker4fu |
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I**n
发帖数: 839 | 29 下面这首牌出自Hellmuth's book "bad beat and lucky draws"
Game是PLO 希望你对四张牌有个概念
***********************
Small blind (SB): holds 5c-7c-8s-9s ($800)
Big blind (BB): holds 3d-5s-7s-8d ($1,000)
Position 1: under the gun, holds Ac-Ad-4c-4d ($600)
Position 2: Jeff Sparks holds Kd-Ks-10d-10s ($1,500)
Position 3: Holds As-Qs-Jh-9h ($2,000)
Position 4: Holds Kh-10h-6d-6c ($400)
Position one (P1) brought it in for $35 under the gun, and all
hands called, with good reasoning. The flop came down 10c-6s-4s.
The SB, w |
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h****h
发帖数: 1168 | 32 来自主题: TexasHoldem版 - sick JQd vs 9s |
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h****h
发帖数: 1168 | 33 来自主题: TexasHoldem版 - sick first and last hand, both 9s.
it's written. |
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s********h
发帖数: 158 | 34 i am curious why we don't see many female poker players relative to male.
after all, women's intuition is much stronger than men, and a significant
part of playing poker is playing psychology.
i taught my wife to play just 3 months ago and I have been very surprised by
her intuition and observation ability. on 3 or 4 occasions playing against
my male buddies, she called despite their quick and large raises and the
showing of A or possible flushes on the board. at the end, she showed a pair
of 9s |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 35 lol, watch again!
it's OMAHA game, you have to use 2 hole cards, isildur1 only has a busted
open ended draw or pair of 9s. |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 36 In the end he only has a busted straight draw or 2 pair of 9s and 5s. but
isi had huge wrapped straight draws after flop. it is almost a coin flip. |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 37 呵呵，显然是为了宣传APPT比赛和澳门新赌场的垃圾作品，但是作为首部专门描述德州
扑克的中文电影，还是应该支持的。
古天乐演了个典型的富二代＋poker internet kid，１０几个屏幕同时打的书呆子，为
了避免full tilt告状侵犯版权，界面用了类似full tilt的avatar，但是稍加修改。
刘青云演了个古爸临终托孤的遗命大臣，说实话，这个角色换谁演都行，没有太多可以
表现的戏份空间。
把澳门赌王的爱女拿来硬找个角色，商业赞助味十足。
几个PPMM倒是比较cute。
估计是APPT结束后拍的，把Nam Le, Johnny Chan, Liz Lieu几个真实高手请来客串
final table。
庸俗化扑克，call all-in with gutshot，straight flush beats quads of 9s.....
这点上比Rounders更远离真实世界。
也有一些相对真实的细节就是了，比如很多龙套角色都知道在桌子上放个吉祥物什么的。
看过笑过就忘的片子。 |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 38 Here is something else to think about.
Do you loose up your calling range because you have the chip lead? odds wise
it is similar. pocket 5s probably have better odds here. I would not
especially when someone is pushing light often. Let him steal some blinds,
and when you catch a good hand, you clear him out in one shot going showdown
with >70% odds. Even though someone is pushing light with short stack, you
put him on A rag, that does not give you the odds to call him light with 10
9s. Becaus |
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h****a
发帖数: 5058 | 39 顺便说下昨天另一把牌，
我觉得自己打得不好，但是意外的收获了不少。
想问问，这牌该怎么打？
AdJs,total 5mil,just called, 5 guys called, pot 240k
flop Kd,Qc,10h, I raised 100k(bb), 2 guys called,
turn 9s, I checked, they all checked,
river Jc, I bet 1.4 mil, one folded, one called.
and I won the 3.5 mil pot.
I think he had J. He thought I was trying to steal the pot.
He had 6mil that time.
But I wasnt ready for this one.
the turn-check looked more like a trap?
I think I played bad, but somehow it turned out to be good.
what do you think I sh |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 40 but people do stupid stuff sometimes. some guy limp utg, i raise 3X button
with pocket 9s. flop J94 all clubs. He bets , i raise. he shoves, i call.
He flip over 5 4 .. both spades... guess he put me on AK? |
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L****n
发帖数: 490 | 41 最近实在太背了
被river N 次
Lundon2008 posts the small blind of $0.25
alllright36 posts the big blind of $0.50
The button is in seat #9
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Lundon2008 [9h 9d]
Sh4veF4ce raises to $1.75
ClimbTrees folds
nagilen folds
ThUnD3rM0rPh calls $1.75
suitedbeerhand folds
HauntRaiser folds
CrowBot folds
Lundon2008 calls $1.50
alllright36 calls $1.25
*** FLOP *** [6s Qh 9s]
Lundon2008 bets $3.50
alllright36 folds
Sh4veF4ce raises to $7
ThUnD3rM0rPh folds
Lundon2008 raises to $18.75
Sh4veF4ce |
|
k******t
发帖数: 257 | 42 utg x3 too small for getting those crappy hands coming in for pot odds ba.
Sometimes utg+1 call,utg+2 call can make chain calls for every one.
either raise more utg or limp trying reraise late position raise and get
heads-up with 9s. 3 way pot you can't overcall A turn but headsup should be
easier decision.
caller. |
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p*******p
发帖数: 13670 | 43 me sb with AA , everyone folds, I raise to 3BB, BB calls
flop 8sTs7h, I bet 4bb, BB raises to 18BB
shall I fold or raise to 50BB? If I do raise, I think I am committed, and
will play whole stack, we both have 100BB
I think he could have set, flopped straight, flopped 2 pairs , but also
could have somthing like pocket 9 (with 9s) or 97,67s, JT,
is folding a better option? |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 44 I had exactly the same hand with KK utg. I think i posted before here.
No A on the flop and A on the turn.
MP and button calls preflop and called after flop. Turn i check fold after
button lead 2/3 pot when check to him. at river button all in with high
card ans MP called with pocket 9s. even if i call turn i can't call river
shove 3 way. out of position with 3 way pot. There is only that much you
can do.
sometimes, you know someone might be making a move, you still can't call. |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 45 This hand i will call with pocket 10s 9s or 8s in a heart beat. or if i
rivered pair of Js. or even if i just got a pair of 7 maybe... anything
smaller will be a tough call, because i can't even beat a bluff with middle pair. You checked flush draw board in position. it is WEAK.
he probably just got a flush draw. |
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D*A
发帖数: 1169 | 46 银幕上最著名的十手poker（二）
No.2 《Rounders》
Game Type: No Limit Texas Hold'em，4 players
Heads up Player: Mike Vs KGB
Hand History:
Blinds: 250/500$
Dealing to Guy 1 ($) (Small Blind) xx
Dealing to KGB （75，000） (Big Blind) AdAh
Dealing to Guy 2 ($) (Big Blind) xx
Dealing to Mike (45,000$) (Button) Ac9c
Pre-flop: Mike Raise 500. Guy 1 and Guy 2 fold, KGB call
Flop: As 9s 8c
KGB (Big Blind) Check
Mike (Button) Bet 2,000
KGB (Big Blind) Call
Turn: 9h
KGB (Big Blind) Check
Mike (Button) Check
R |
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y********n
发帖数: 2063 | 47 He had similar hands before.
1. ***** Hand History for Game 17025514703 ***** (Full Tilt)
$10000.00 USD NL Texas Hold'em - Wednesday, December 23, 06:59:01 ET 2009
Table Masters (heads up) (Real Money)
Seat 2 is the button
Seat 1: jungleman12 ( $32680.00 USD )
Seat 2: ORLOVSKIY ( $7199.75 USD )
ORLOVSKIY posts small blind [$50.00 USD].
jungleman12 posts big blind [$100.00 USD].
** Dealing down cards **
Dealt to jungleman12 [ Js 9s ]
ORLOVSKIY raises [$250.00 USD]
jungleman12 calls [$200.00 USD] |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 48 yes, happened to me too but in the other way, i mis-clicked and folded quad
9s. |
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W********m
发帖数: 7793 | 49 if you call off 30X bb preflop with 10 9s? seriously.. |
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f*****g
发帖数: 15860 | 50 来自主题: TexasHoldem版 - 也有这种牌 nah, i check called on turn...
the only thing i need to worry about is not to mis-click, like i did once
with quad 9s, lol. |
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