b*********x
发帖数: 362 | 1 the cause is they neglected to bring gaiters.
Here is the detail:
...
As they were experienced mountaineers, it was surprising to find our friends
having trouble. Expecting icy conditions, they neglected to bring gaiters.
Doreen's warnings about the snow were correct. The snow is soft and deep.
Ascending the final chute, we sunk up to 4 feet. Progress was quite slow.
We met one other, Erik Alm, who turned back at 7000 feet because of bad snow
conditions.
... |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 Which route are you going to take?
Avalanche rarely happened on Mt.Whitney, so if you are not climbing
immediately after a major storm, or going up on an unreasonable warm day, it
should be fine.
Rope up or not, it depends on snow condition and team members' ability. If
the snow on the last chute becomes icy, definitely you want to protect (not
only rope up, you could also need running belay, protecting with snow picket
or even with ice screw). Under good condition, I mean the snow is packed,
ea |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 3 最后一个CHUTE在大多数人都用绳队的情况下,
的确有人从边上大岩石SCRAMBLE上去,也有人直接雪坡SOLO,
每个人情况和信心都不同吧,
如果心里没底,尽量选更安全的方案总没错 |
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p********r
发帖数: 1432 | 4 一个skydiver在稳定状态下Free fall的时候,第一个1000feet用大概10秒;然后每
1000feet用5.5秒. 稳定arch(也叫box position)时候的速度是在120 mph左右.
Tandem因为是双人串联,重量增加而迎风面积不怎么变化,所以下落速度比较快.教练在
free fall的时候会开一个drag chute来增大阻力,使下落速度大致也控制在120 mph左
右.
Tandem的出舱高度在9000~13000AGL之间,一般5000AGL开伞.大约是40秒左右的free
fall时间 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 5 这个周末又去了一趟Mt Hood，是我们小组自己的climb。
上一次去最后那一两mile平地走得人差点就崩溃了，endless & hopeless。这次征得
lead同意，背上了ski。好在leader领导下的pace本身比较慢，跟上没什么问题。
把ski扔在Devil's kitchen，然后从chute爬上去登顶。很严重的traffic jam，有一组
guide service的有十几人，这些人很mean，不让我们用他设好的picket，说什么“
This is my picket!"， WTF. 下去的时候在顶上等他们先下，他们一个一个地从上面
belay下去，花了无穷多时间。我们在寒风中雪地上坐了一个小时，人都快冻僵了，幸
好还有太阳。
等穿上ski也不是很爽，雪况很不好，icy & bumpy，加上第一次不认路，滑得也慢.
好不容易挣扎到ski resort lift area才爽了一把，比其他人提前一个多小时，趁机在
车里睡了一觉。
难怪背ski的人上山都比较晚，不用alpine start，都等着太阳出来多晒一会儿呢。 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 6 这么小的人怎么可能看见。我们贡献了3跟绳子，12个人，设了几个picket。
确认一下，这个照片上就是所谓的chute对吧。Hogs back是右边的那条山脊，山脊往上
才是perly's gates? 我们leader说现在已经走不到perly's gates那里去了，因为有
裂缝，我看他回来的报告里头建议改今年的climbing guide. |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 7 Detail Plan:
6/19 (Sat) South Platte
04. Deckers to Confluence with North Fork (Chutes)
Nearby City: Denver
Night: Majority stay in Denver, some stay in Grand Junction ( AZ + CA 5p)
http://www.americanwhitewater.or ... tlRiverMainGadget19 |
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E****t
发帖数: 184 | 8 一个人在旅店，山上还有很多的雪在Switchbacks，前面的人都是从Chute 用Crampon
爬上去的，
没有经验，担心下来的时候出事，开始和同伴说好如果有雪就返回，
可是同伴准备了雪鞋，我试探的问如果自己爬不上，就在12000ft 的地方等他们，却被
告知我可以自己先走回去，在山下等，
感到很心凉， |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 9 No, unless you choose snow covered chute |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 10 1. Gear note?
2. Condition of pearly gates & old chute? 竟然要rap？ 今年很陡？ 留了gear？
ridge
4pm |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 gear notes原文里补充了
old chute上个月去过，大概40度的雪坡，有一小段45度左右，不难
pearly gate 基本上是45度的坡，中间有一段是冰，没留gear，最后一个人down climb了
white
一路
雪坡
第一
就登 |
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x***k
发帖数: 3311 | 12 Wow, man, coming out of the chute is some really stuff! |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 13 Rapid Summary
Mile Rapid Name Class Features (Legend)
0.0 Chili Bar II Putin Playspot Photo
0.6 Meatgrinder III+ Hazard Photo
1.3 Racehorse Bend III
1.5 Maya II+ Playspot Photo
1.7 Rock Garden II
2.4 African Queen II+
3.0 First Threat III Playspot Photo Video
3.4 BLM toilets N/A
3.7 The Narrows II+ Photo
4.0 Mini Gorge II+
4.3 Swimmer's Rapid II
5.1 Troublemaker III+ Hazard Ph... 阅读全帖 |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 14 If we have enough energy, the second half day on 23, we can try Gorge which
is III+.
http://americanwhitewater.org/content/River/detail/id/4068/#tab
the most difficult rapid is Satan's Cesspool
A long moderate rapid gradually bends to the left and leads to a low rocky
island. A sneak route can be taken to the right, while the standard route
is to the left. The main current sweeps quickly left at the top of the
island, then then is forced sharply back to the right by a cliff wall on the
left. ... 阅读全帖 |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 15 一定派人摄影和录像
看上去Satans Cesspool 不是那么复杂, 如果大家第一天都顺利地过, 第二天就可能考
虑CHILI BAR(避开俩个主要的RAPID):
Meatgrinder,
A long and sometimes dangerous rapid with large boulders and hidden holes.
There is an excellent trail for scouting and portaging on river right. It
is an old railroad grade.---这个很重要
Troublemaker
This short but steep and tricky drop is at the end of the run and thus
convenient for spectators, photographers and other lovers of entertaining
carnage.
The current splits around a rocky island. The sta... 阅读全帖 |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 16 Rapid Summary
Mile Rapid Name Class Features (Legend)
0.0 Chili Bar II Putin Playspot Photo
0.6 Meatgrinder III+ Hazard Photo
1.3 Racehorse Bend III
1.5 Maya II+ Playspot Photo
1.7 Rock Garden II
2.4 African Queen II+
3.0 First Threat III Playspot Photo Video
3.4 BLM toilets N/A
3.7 The Narrows II+ Photo
4.0 Mini Gorge II+
4.3 Swimmer's Rapid II
5.1 Troublemaker III+ Hazard Ph... 阅读全帖 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 did you do perly gates variation? the climbers in your picture are on the
standard route (old chute). pearly gates is on the right (climber's right). |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 18 See the photo. Pearly gate was directly under the fall line of the rock
falls. Whereas the "old chute" was more benigning looking.
怎么贴照片？ |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 19 See the photo. Pearly gate was directly under the fall line of the rock
falls. Whereas the "old chute" was more benigning looking. |
|
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C*****1
发帖数: 746 | 21 http://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/River/detail/id/867/
River Description
After a long drive by logging roads dodging Moose, put-in at McKay station.
There is usually dependable flow here all Summer. The section from the dam
to Chewonki's Big Eddy (about 2 miles) is considered a class V run. Just
below the put-in is Exterminator hole. At normal summer levels punch the
hole on the left. Below exterminator is Staircase rapid. Shallow class IV
with a nice wave train at the end. Just downstre... 阅读全帖 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 22 Steep and exposed traverse thought a series of chutes. One slip then you are
history. (pictures really do not show the steepness.) |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 23 Please post a TR here when you get back.
I personally found the chute along the Kautz Glacier is very very easy.
Rather, the objective danger such as rock fall and crevass are the crux of
the climb. Nisqually glacier maybe full of crevasses late in the season.
The rockfall also gets more frequent. I had a failed attempt of Kautz Route
in 2005 as I chickened out in front of the maze of crevasses.
. |
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P*8
发帖数: 257 | 24 第一天，早4点出发，11点登Shepherd Pass，扎营.12:30 attempt Tyndall 失败。
第二天，早5:30出发，10:30登顶Williamson。 11:15下山，时间大把，到处闲逛，15:30回营地。
第三天，早5:00出发，7:30登顶tyndall, 8点下山，10点回营地，打包下山。11点出发, 下午4点到达Trail Head,开车回家。
Shepherd Pass. 11 miles, elevation gain 6500 feet, plus 700 feet drop. There is no bear box at the trail head. I guess because the elevation at trail head is too low(6300 feet), it is out of bear territory.
星夜出发
Trail
Anvil Camp. 途中很多取水点。
过了Anvil Camp, 就看到最后一段Shepherd Pass, 远看根本无路可通的样子。
走近了，才看见乱石中陡峭的trail。
登... 阅读全帖 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 redbanks那段chute比较窄，还经常有traffic，我是觉得比较可怕
我这周末还要再去一次Rainier |
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m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 26 Lito also Said :
" In general, you will find more bc touring situations suitable for Nordic
than for Alpine gear. This is especially true if you live in the East or
Midwest, and still true to some extent in the Rockies, the Sierra Nevada, or
the Pacific Northwest. Big peaks and volcanos, as well as steep chutes and
couloirs under harder spring-snow conditions, are the most typically
appropriate situations for Apline touring. " |
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q***z
发帖数: 554 | 27 如题。寻找山友。7/6或者7/7,我7/5凌晨抵达PDX,有车。Hogsback > Old Chute线路。
去年我和guide上到了hogsback, turned back due to high avalanche danger.
本人经验：confident and fit winter climber, solid crampon/axe experience.
Took crevasse rescue and glacial travel class this April. On Rainier/Hood
last year 5/28 weekend with guides but turned around due to avalanche danger
. Will bring 30m rope and two ice tools/two pickets. I'm laid back and sane,
looking for someone with similar experience and can maintain cool head
under tough ... 阅读全帖 |
|
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 29 End of the ledges, joining the Gib chute. The terrain in the picture looks a
lot harder than it really was. |
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r*******l
发帖数: 440 | 30 The Brothers - 在西雅图可以看见的一座Olympics双峰。夏天SOLO的，用了15个小时
，翻了好几个FALSE SUMMIT，有很多羊。。
Mt Shuksan - North Cascades经典，目前爬过最喜欢的雪山。线路是Sulphide
Glacier，最后的金字塔部分是很有趣的一段scramble。
Mt Hood - Old Chute，很陡很icy，今年去的时候Pearly Gates木有打开。
Mt Baker - Coleman Glacier，早季去的，属于比较简单直接的线路。
Mt Garibaldi - Cascade Range最北的火山，在加拿大。 |
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T**X
发帖数: 314 | 31 hood 和 helens不是一个级别的山。hood的难度在于最后越爬越陡，我是13年5月30号
自己solo的，走的pearl gate，因为old chute没有痕迹。我的感觉是比rainier DC路
线的第二天还要难不少，绝对不是hike-up。
我6个小时爬到猪背时，体力还剩50%吧，心想这次没问题了，结果后面那一小段用光了
所有的大腿推力（我体质比较弱，大腿很细），登顶以后一屁股坐下歇了20分钟才缓过
来。
我的经验，希望对你有帮助：
1。头盔必须的，我7：30通过pearl gate时候,冰渣子打在身上像被扫射一样，橄榄球
那末大的冰坨45度坡滚下来，没法躲。我事后甚至想以后带一个crotch cup，真不是吓
唬你。
2。如果走pearl gate，要准备个别路段50度坡，而且可能有冰，冰爪踢牢了再上，上
还好了，下来的时候最好两人belay,安全多了。
3。所有人提到的那个大冰缝，尽量绕开，千万不要在那附近出问题，you can't
afford falling there。登顶后别靠北边崖边太近。
4。你的第二个问题非常危险，你这末想的话，等过了那个大冰缝，进入pe... 阅读全帖 |
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T**X
发帖数: 314 | 32 没有啊，我只是看到他明显的低估了胡德山的难度，把我自己当时真实的想法说出来，
希望对他有帮助。
我希望他们被我“吓唬”了，然后胆大心细的把这个事情干成啊。
是的，最后一段太陡，自停不管用的，结不结绳都两说着。
尽量走old chute,好吧？ |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 33 Climbed Hood yesterday. Went up old chute. Last section is borderline
technical. Definitely not recommended for anyone who never put on crampons
before. |
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g*******s
发帖数: 2963 | 34
其实是那里有一条很窄很窄的chute，容不下两脚分开..... |
|
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l***h
发帖数: 9308 | 36 我记得以前给过一个术语链接在某个置项贴里面，可能归档了吧，再贴一下，新人不懂
的可以参考一下
http://www.runnersworld.com/community/forums/runner-communities
Your friendly beginning runner's guide to .... runner's jargon.
You'll notice we don't have a FAQ here -- that's because we want you to ask
your questions, join in, become part of the community! That said, I am sure
new runners get overwhelmed by phrases we throw around all the time here
with impunity; you probably think we're all speaking some strange language.
To follow along here, ... 阅读全帖 |
|
W***i
发帖数: 833 | 37 算了，我还是再贴一遍，
Your friendly beginning runner's guide to .... runner's jargon.
You'll notice we don't have a FAQ here -- that's because we want you to ask
your questions, join in, become part of the community! That said, I am sure
new runners get overwhelmed by phrases we throw around all the time here wit
h impunity; you probably think we're all speaking some strange language. To
follow along here, it's really helpful just to know some general stuff and w
hat terms mean. So in the interest of hel... 阅读全帖 |
|
l***h
发帖数: 9308 | 38 marathon pace
跑步黑话大全
Your friendly beginning runner's guide to .... runner's jargon. Cool
You'll notice we don't have a FAQ here -- that's because we want you to ask
your questions, join in, become part of the community! That said, I am sure
new runners get overwhelmed by phrases we throw around all the time here wit
h impunity; you probably think we're all speaking some strange language. To
follow along here, it's really helpful just to know some general stuff and w
hat terms mean. So in the in... 阅读全帖 |
|
|
q*c
发帖数: 17993 | 40 这个S&S chutes 的常常有ski patrol守着吗？哈
that
"
slopes
s |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 41 "大风，只开一个lift" this can happen in almost very resort. The snow
condition should be similar for north tahoe resorts(northstar/squaw/alpine
meadow/mt rose) since they are pretty close to each other. mt rose has
highest base in tahoe, which may provide better condition than others if
there is no snow in a couple of weeks. I haven't get a chance to visit its
chutes yet.
Talking about terrian/lift system, squaw is the best/most challenging one in
tahoe area. KT22 serves the best terrian you can find i |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 42 I have to say you live a good life!
Are the chutes open? |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 43 not a lot of ppl ski chutes when it opens? |
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m***h
发帖数: 23691 | 44 Chutes are 45-55 degree, few people dare try it, especially
the current condition. |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 45 for mt rose, mooth should be the ppl to ask. if the chutes are all open with
okay condition, I am very interested to check it out.
I am kind of curious about how icy can squaw be after 3 weeks without any
snow as well. |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 46 oh, shxt! it is snowing!
mt rose: 2-4" in 12 hours
squaw:6-8" and it's not stopping.
kirkwood: with 4-8” of fresh snow so far and more on the way
but why chutes in mt rose all closed? avy control? |
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m***h
发帖数: 23691 | 47 I don't know why chutes are closed today, probably just bad weather. |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 48 it says:
Chutes Closed due to low snow conditions in the run out near the lift. |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 49 I am keeping my fingers crossed.
Hope to check out chutes with some new snow next Sunday:) |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 50 This is the part that i would like to share.
You can see the cliffs,chutes along this lift.
When the coverage is good, ppl ski those area. |
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