q******g
发帖数: 3858 | 1 http://www.sbs.com.au/schedule/2009-02-19/SBS%20Sydney#
Tibet: Murder In The Snow
In an incident that shocked the world, a teenage Tibetan nun, Kelsang Namtso
, was killed when Chinese border police opened fire on a group of pilgrims
as they fled Tibet over the infamous Nangpa Pass. The shooting was witnessed
by international mountain climbers, some of whom videotaped or photographed
the events and also helped rescue survivors and sent the story out to the
world. Using the original climber foota |
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g*********d
发帖数: 203 | 2 喜欢这项运动，认识的人当中也有做这个好多年的，所以平时多注意了一些。
有些free solo climber背后也有一个小团队，也就不奇怪又很多不同角度的图像了。
比如Dan Osman 就有很多free solo 和rope jump的录像 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ8yL4uSl6Y
这哥们还是free solo 5.12c,b 的级别。
还有Derek Hersey，就是boulder的climber。曾经一天free solo 这个Diamond face
三次。
Mugs Stump 在孤零零的冰瀑上的free solo，场面也很壮观。
这样的牛人有很多，水平确实很高，对他们来讲一些级别的难度已经不算什么了，就像
我们爬小山坡一样简单。目的明确简单，不用带很多东西，没有partner,享受的就是这种阿尔
卑斯式攀爬的绝对自由。这种运动带来的刺激，和战胜挑战后的愉悦也是不言而喻的。
很可惜，上面三个人最后都出意外了。以这样的水平会很少出意外，但是一旦意外就是
致命的。也不能说他们鲁莽，这个东西真的很难讲，有时候会是有种欲罢不能的感觉。 |
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s*****n
发帖数: 617 | 3 [TR] Date with the Bear - Little Bear, Blanca and Ellingwood Point
从South Colony Lake回来，觉得今夏的爬山计划已基本完成，准备专心看奥运了。正
当中美金牌大战进行得如火如荼的时候，好久不联系的山友W忽然给我发了条短信，说
他所有class 4的14er里只剩一个Little Bear了，找不到人同去，问我有没有胆子舍命
陪君子。
看到短信我愣了许久，Little Bear，Little Bear……这个绕不过去的家伙，终于还是
来了。两年前，曾和我一起爬过山的小朋友Kevin Hayne在Little Bear不幸遇难。
http://www.mitbbs.com/article_t/Colorado/31192175.html
每年都会有几个人在爬14er的时候挂掉，大家已经习以为常了。但发生在自己认识的人
身上还是很震撼的，那个夏天都非常小心，下意识里也把Little Bear这个怪物推得远
远的，以后再说吧。
Little Bear的成名大杀器是一个叫Hourglass的gully，见下图中的红圈... 阅读全帖 |
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t**********p
发帖数: 2672 | 5 I guess this news is in time for Justin's planning.
http://www.cnn.com/2010/US/10/21/california.hikers/index.html?hpt=T1
Three California hikers found, but two more missing
(CNN) -- Three experienced hikers were rescued from California's Mount
Whitney, but a father and son in a separate group are missing, the National
Park Service said.
Battling heavy snow, rescue personnel and a California National Guard
helicopter reached the three men around noon (3 p.m. ET) Thursday.
The men were part of a g... 阅读全帖 |
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R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 6 Summary:
DC不需要route finding省了很多精力，travese的路都给踩出来了，省了很多体力
DC最陡的那段guiding companies set up 好了fixed rope
这次天气晴好，很多地方都不用crampon，我穿的super gaiter的boot也太热了
大概有１０个左右的cravasse，早点出发，过snowbridge安全，走起来也轻松，而且也
有人照应
如果你是和我一样的天气去，少带衣服，多带水，大概每１小时吃一个energy bar补充
体力
一罐气刚刚好够２人化雪煮吃的，刚好完全用完
防晒，防晒，防晒！我已经每几个小时补了防晒霜,一有空就拿个防晒sticker在脸上乱
涂一通了，可是上山和下山肤色还是差太多了！
注：所有iphone照片都是我照的，所有DSLR照片都是我partner照的
话说为什么要爬Rainier，我现在已经忘掉了，但我去年把它列上了今年的to do list
，所以一定是有理由的，待我想起来再补充。之前和板上大牛stargazing交流了下，大
牛说得实在太简单了，效仿大牛会死很惨。所以我还是认认真真准备起来。年... 阅读全帖 |
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e*******r
发帖数: 1433 | 7 SAN RAMON, Calif. (KGO) -- The grieving family of a Bay Area hiker wants to
know why there is not more supervision for climbers at Yosemite National
Park's Half Dome. San Ramon resident Haley LaFlamme, 25, fell to her death
on Sunday. She is the second person from that city to die at Half Dome in
the last two years.
According to family members, LaFlamme was very much looking forward to
scaling the cables at Half Dome again. She had taken the same route a year
ago in weather that appeared much be... 阅读全帖 |
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s******r
发帖数: 420 | 9 说实话从气候角度讲，这边不是太适合户外运动，
主要是因为雨季太长，虽然一般都不是大雨，但还是严重妨碍户外运动的进行。
比如biking，雨天骑车其实不是很安全和方便，运动舒适性就更别提了。
而且Great Seattle area地势普遍比较hilly，对普通骑自行车的来说，
是个比较大的挑战。
又比如hiking，也是受雨季影响比较大。传统上完全dry的只有三个月，
其它时间就要撞大运。当然，由于拥有North cascade和 Olympic Mountains，
对climbers来说这边算是乐园。但是乐园也是有season的，冬天深秋早春的时候
一般的climbers也是猫冬的。
喜欢ski/snowboard的同学还算幸福，毕竟这里有real mountains，
搞backcountry ski算是乐土。
喜欢水上运动的同学可能不会太happy，pacific ocean水温比较低，
这里又偏北，能进行水上运动的那都是tough guys。
我认识不少人都是候鸟，冬天来这里滑雪，夏天去加州冲浪，
不过咱们普通人，是过不了这种浪漫生活的。 |
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s******r
发帖数: 420 | 10 所以说你没看对地方嘛，呵呵
climbers当然不会跟一般游人挤在一起，你下次去爬half dome，
爬上去了走到cliff边上沿着cliff往下看，就能看到climbers了。 |
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s*****i
发帖数: 5548 | 11 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
southpark (打死我也不说) 于 (Thu Jan 27 10:55:09 2011, 美东) 提到:
春暖花开，宅了一冬也该动动了。有没有人有兴趣去攀岩？查了查这个是德州最大的室
内攀岩。他家的DAY PASS，包括所有装备和基本的TRAINING。新手也足够了。
今天LIVINGSOCIAL有折扣票，30刀的DAY PASS卖10刀了。表犹豫了。
http://www.texasrockgym.com/
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
yoyole (悠悠乐) 于 (Thu Jan 27 10:57:22 2011, 美东) 提到:
cool,我要去看看，这个对臂力要求很高。不过每次玩完了都很爽，隔壁会疼个2.3天
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
southpark (打死我也不说) 于 (Thu Jan 27 10:59:14 2011, 美东) 提到:
我看了看他家网... 阅读全帖 |
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z**********i
发帖数: 12276 | 12 http://do512family.com/2012/11/best-camping-spots-austin/?wb486
Here is your guide to camping around Austin, from near to far, with the
approximate distance away from Austin listed at the beginning of each
summary. There are 18 listed here, and if you have one you would like us to
add, let us know.
“Man is most nearly himself when he achieves the seriousness of a child at
play.” – Herodotus, Greek historian
________________
image cred
10 miles away – McKinney Falls State Park has around 90 camp... 阅读全帖 |
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e*******e
发帖数: 1837 | 13 学校的Email,挺牛的一个climber:
Dear Friends and Colleagues:
I’m pleased to invite you to share an evening with Apa Sherpa, one of the
world’s most accomplished mountain climbers, this Thursday, Nov. 17 at 7 p.
m. at the Huntsman Cancer Institute Auditorium.
Earlier this year Apa, joined by his colleague and friend Terrell Pool,
hiked through Nepal preparing for Apa’s 21st ascent of Mt. Everest. The
excursion involved a medical emergency, an air rescue, and ultimately, a
successful, record-breaking summ... 阅读全帖 |
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T****t
发帖数: 549 | 14 来自主题: WashingtonDC版 - 今生今世 想起Runaway Bunny, 很象
Once there was a little bunny who wanted to run away.
So he said to his mother, “I am running away.”
“If you run away,” said his mother, “I will run after you.
For you are my little bunny.”
“If you run after me,” said the little bunny,
“I will become a fish in a trout stream
and I will swim away from you.”
“If you become a fish in a trout stream,” said his mother,
“I will become a fisherman and I will fish for you.”
“If you become a fisherman,” said the little bunny,
“I will ... 阅读全帖 |
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l**n
发帖数: 7272 | 15 An hour above high camp on the Southeast Ridge of Everest, Panuru Sherpa and
I passed the first body. The dead climber was on his side, as if napping in
the snow, his head half covered by the hood of his parka, goose down
blowing from holes torn in his insulated pants. Ten minutes later we stepped
around another body, her torso shrouded in a Canadian flag, an abandoned
oxygen bottle holding down the flapping fabric.
。。。
Later I would learn the names of these four climbers: Chinese Ha Wenyi, who
... 阅读全帖 |
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b******n
发帖数: 1269 | 16 quite the contrary, the recent great TDF champs have gotten major time in
TTs, Indurain and Lance are obvious examples. Indurain in fact isn't
exactly a top tier climber, albeit a good one. In fact good climbers become
great champs only after improving their TT skills, eg, Simoni, Leiphimer,
Basso, Contador, etc. |
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f**********e
发帖数: 1994 | 17 climber 经常是身材相对短小的人 -- 170 cm, 125 lb.
time trialist 才经常是身材相对高大的人... 他们的 wattage
不是小个子的人能赶上的。
Il pirata == the best climber with EPO |
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N*********r
发帖数: 1190 | 19 我有好几处可以hunt的property
近来很少用climber了，都是climbing stick+big hanging stand, 每次过去1分钟上树
做好，轻松安静，就跟去个bar坐上一会一样。用惯了就很不习惯老是背来背去爬来爬
去的climber了。 |
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p********y
发帖数: 5141 | 20 我没有隆过。不知道隆了之后如果有非常剧烈的冲击会不会悲剧，例如袋子破了？如果
会的话，身为climber（尤其是以bouldering为主的climber）无论如何也不会去隆胸的
。因为你掉下来的话，那个冲击力是很恐怖的，简直是自杀行为呀。比志玲姐姐坠马恐
怖多了。 |
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z****8
发帖数: 35 | 21 There were lots of climbers at Camp Muir that night. When we arrived, they
also got up. I didn't know why they got up so early, because last few times
I climbed Rainier, people all got up at midnight or 1:00AM. Now it was only
11:30PM but most climbers were already roped up and ready to roll.
We took some time to eat, drink and rope up. At 12:15AM, we were also ready
to leave. After Camp Muir, it was a near lateral treverse of Cowlitz Glacier
, followed by climbing over Cathedral Gap. The latter |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 5.12是个分水岭。下面的都是intermediate climber, 上面的都是advance climber |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 23 总之我是不会用grigri的了。cinch和新出的mammut smart在重量，使用的绳子直径，
给绳的流畅性上都胜过grigri了。
http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/1060348_v_0044_/Smart.html
The Smart safety device has been specially designed to meet the needs of the
constantly growing group of indoor and sports climbers. It dynamically
brakes the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of
force exerted by the user. In situations where the user has a sudden shock,
the function corresponds to the reflex movements of the human body. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 24 说经常去local的malibu creek爬，最爱lake tahoe，觉得胜过Yosemite
本来那天我没partner，就随便抓了一个人，就是这个老头。他号称受伤，半年没爬，
来aa出差，两天前才开始恢复。一起爬了几条5.11s，老头非常smooth。我说，你没受
伤的时候爬12s, 13s吧，老头嘿嘿一乐，嗯是啊，而且是trad
觉得俺眼光还挺准的哈。trad climber爬的时候明显特别稳，没有sports climber经常
有意无意的小动态。
最近一段改成每周去gym爬三次了。一周两次对我来说肌肉很难保持在稳定爬5.11的水
平。觉得什么运动如果不能隔天一次就很难保持。跑步也一样，隔两天不跑感觉就不一
样了。这么说来，认真玩的话最多只能两项运动，这就一周６天，休息一天了。 |
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k***z
发帖数: 3522 | 25 听说啦，我还特意用望远镜观察了一下，没看见climber。
倒是后来在sky pond那里，看到10几个climber，回头上照片 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 26 It is more about experience.
It is true given time and practice, a lot of sports climbers who climbed
better in gym/crag can do better job in alpine rock. The funny thing is I
found most sports climbers don't think Alpine rock is fun. |
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o*****t
发帖数: 227 | 27 也许会多一些，但我不太乐观。至少我接触的国内climbers中，大多是和我们一样的
weekender, 不要说hardman，连有一些冒险精神的都很少。
我认为未来10年，竞技化方面会有大的发展，但真正的climber在中国还会是凤毛麟角 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 Either he had a crappy down jacket or he didn't know how to care for it.
Actually it doesn't take much. If you don't believe in down, check out what
Denali climbers and Himalayan climbers wear. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 太早看的了，不记得了。你在图书馆借的？给我看看吧。
into thin air书写的很好的，jon krakauer也是很牛的climber，电影里有一些细节不
大符合实际，可能是导演的问题，也可能为了迎合观众猎奇的心态吧。实际的
mountaineering过程没什么可观赏性，很boring的，rescue就更不用说了，繁琐的要死
，一个raise system花一小时rig，专业rescue team用的gear别说一般人，就是大部分
climber都没见过。 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 30 看看Scientific American怎么说的，缺氧造成的brain damage很可能是长期的（expedition回来三年以后还在），不需要爬Aconcagua和Everest这样的高山，Monte Blanc这样四千多米的山就能造成脑损伤
。讲究轻装快速的alpine style登山，因为缺乏acclimatization更容易造成脑损伤。
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=brain-cells-into-thin-air
Some 5,000 climbers ascend Himalayan peaks every year. Thousands more climb
peaks in the Alps and Andes. Many of these people spend liberally to mount
expeditions or to be guided to the summit. But it is increasingly clear that
these climbers are p |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 31 这次跟几个老头一起去的，其中一个是在Yosemite爬5.12 trad, A4/C4，sports爬过5.
13X的那种。老头们都是从70年代就开始爬。另一个老头是我们gym的，曾经做过几年
full time climber。最让我佩服的是他30年来完全injure free。要知道70年代末80年
代初，caming device才刚刚出现，他们刚开始爬的时候全部用的都是passive
protection。在我看来这些老头是最安全的climber了，非常了解自己的limit，知道如
何push。他们有很多值得俺这个晚辈学习的地方。
所有的climb都是trad，这次没爬任何sports
10/10 Sat Eastern Sky Bridge
这个climbing area的trad很多都是70年代的，rating比较stiff，尤其是那些old
school 5.9，当年5.10就是世界上最难的climb，5.9的trad route如果按照今天sports
climbing的标准，难度是有5.10的，真是不能轻视。老头们说，东部的rating参照
gunks，比较老的路线普 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 33 qun给我的书。尤其是对攀岩的女孩子，真应该推荐。估计我以后再也没脸抱怨自己个子
小爬不上去了。一个5'2''的女孩子，从14岁第一次在Joshua Tree攀爬的时候就显露天
分，后来完成了Nose的第一次free climb (5.14b, 31 pitches），而且多次在世界杯
攀岩赛里面夺冠。书里有她早年在Joshua Tree, Yosemity，Red Rocks，Gunks，以及
后来在法国，意大利的生活和攀爬，还有很多其它climber的故事。比如John Long老头
，以前一直觉得他是个教科书老头（没办法他写的书太经典了），读了他早年的故事原
来超级嬉皮士，而且喜欢口若悬河地讲些半真半想象的故事。在Vegas的时候曾经一度
找不到工作落魄靠Lynn救济。
里面关于美国60，70年代早期的代表人物，sports与trad的ethic的争论，甚至hanging
dog去red point一条线是否应该被接受在AAC曾经的一番激烈的辩论，也让我理解了些
我认识的老climber的态度。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 我已经在fb上的the mountaineers和cascade climbers groups上发了帖子了。贼要是
在northwest销赃会比较困难。应该很快大部分northwest climber都会知道了 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 35 I still remember my usr/passwd, but my account seems to be disabled. Last
time I logged in was 1999.
I heared from multiple climbers I respect that SMR is not very good. They
are more like fire fighters, good at find lost hikers, etc. Not so good at
rescue stranded climbers. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 37 We are talking about "untouchable" in a spiritual sense, damage to the
rock is a seperate issue. Besides, potter claims he climbed the arch
in the "purest" form, even going to the extend of avoiding certain kind
of handholds. As for "showing off", i understand climbers have the urge
to climb beautiful rocks, it seems unfair to suggest some climbers or
type of climbs to be ostentatious or less noble than others.
poor |
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k**u
发帖数: 10502 | 38 http://abcnews.go.com/Travel/wireStory?id=10483789
SKorean makes history in Himalayas by becoming 1st woman to scale world's 14
highest mountains
The Associated Press
KATMANDU, Nepal April 27, 2010 (AP)
SKorean Is 1st Woman to Reach 14 Himalayan Peaks
South Korean watch TV live broadcasting of South Korean climber Oh Eun-sun
reaching the summit of... Expand
South Korean watch TV live broadcasting of South Korean climber Oh Eun-sun
reaching the summit of the Annapurna in Nepal, at Seoul Railway S |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 39 I second this. Lots of times people claim that they're 5.11 climbers when
they can only hanging dog on toprope 5.11s. You only qualify 5.11
climbers when you can lead onsight most 5.11s on most climbing areas.
My friend had a bad experience hooking up online with a newbie who says he
can climb 5.10s without problem but end up shaking leading 5.8s sports.
I appreciate it when people make it clear what they actually mean by those
meaningless numbers.
V4s, |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 did you do perly gates variation? the climbers in your picture are on the
standard route (old chute). pearly gates is on the right (climber's right). |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 No, sport climbing is where you focus on climbing skills rather than setting
pros. Taking and falling are a major part of the deal, of course when it's
safe to do so. Good climbers take and fall all the time. If you read books
like How to Climb 5.12 or Self Coached Climbers, you'll see they all spend
time explaining taking and falling. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 42 from Rock&Ice
Written by Andrew Bisharat
There’s nothing better than going on a climbing trip. The opportunity to
travel is the greatest perk in any climber’s life. There is climbing in
every country on earth … just point to some place on the globe, and if you
’re a climber you automatically have a reason to go there. Think about it.
It’s pretty cool. (No, seriously, think about it. See? Pretty cool.)
I’d say 10 days is the minimum amount of time for a climbing trip to be “
worth it,” though I’v... 阅读全帖 |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 43 普通人General public don't go rock climbing.
Rock climbing people usually do just free climb.
Some portion of rock climbers do aid climbing.
Some portion of aid climbers go climbing El Cap.
For those climbing El Cap, regular is 5-7 day. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 44 they may have advantages
but doing 5.11 easily means they are pretty good climbers, not just tall
climbers :)
,
so |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 45 回答这个问题？
我没有follow过。不过self-coached climber里很多小练习跟我01－02年做的很多练习
类似。所以算是从一开始就被纠正过的。我同意如果不是教练逼，很多的drill很难做
下来。
Eric Horst的东西倒是对我挺有用的。我和我的一个regular partner都在gym里做过
4x4的bouldering练习，和在岩壁上20分钟一组的laps。而且一个很重要的理念就是你
只有某些日子是performance day，不是每一天都要work on your project。我会有一
段时间集中跑laps，有一段集中bouldering，有些天才会work on project。对我来说
去年去Yosemite的那一周就基本算endurance training了，基本都是moderate的长路线
，回来发现在gym爬明显耐力增加了，onsight能力进步了。
我觉得self-coached climber主要在于刚开始攀爬的时候掌握正确的动作，让有效的动
作称为你的习惯。而Eric Horst的书，我的理解就是，就像跑马拉松的人要有long run... 阅读全帖 |
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z*******y
发帖数: 126 | 46 比Eric horst的书好很多。
H先生是中国应试教育的代表，为了出成绩，给你一堆计划，你就照着做吧。练成了你
就牛了，没练成就说明你suck，不小心还练废了。
而前者，Ya同学说的不错，教你很多入门的细节。但是这只占全书的1/3内容。climber
一书教你认识你的身体，教你认识攀岩这门运动。 我觉得不是所有人都有这个悟性，
知道自己该怎么做。但是对于想那么做能够悟到的人，这是最需要的内容。 只有了
解自己的身体，才知道怎样强化身体，怎样避免受伤。只有了解了攀岩运动，才知道自
己该做什么不该做什么。
我自幼瘦弱，身体一般，但是看体育和王语嫣一样，学什么都是看一眼就明白了。呵呵
。那书讲细节的我直接跳过了。 为什么我们要抱石呢？因为你没有突破难点的能点，
能在简单的长线上刷100遍顶绳都没用。“超强的极限力量可以帮助提高你的耐力，超强的
耐力永远提高不了极限力量”，你就联想吧。你一大泡尿可以灭掉一把火，但是你一次
尿一点，大火不一会就把你裤子给烧了 ^_^ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 那我回去把self-coached climber再看一遍。
climber |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 48 王语嫣很酷。 :)
我记得self-coach climber里好像也有计划？ 反正要买来认真读了。
Horst比较搞笑的是出了好多本书，每本内容都非常雷同，还卖的很好。 :)
climber |
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