x****i
发帖数: 69 | 1 The problem is the second day or third day of rains. Though the overhang
cliffs are protected from the rain, the moisture just got out from the
sandstone. I missed the chance to try on the classic cline Ro Shampoo
because of that. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 sandstone最讨厌的是湿了以后容易break，pro的强度低了很多 |
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k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 3 now i understand why you don't go water in the swimming board that much
anymore :D |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 我已经把swimming版z掉了。sex版冒了一堆灌水的过来，搞的乌烟瘴气 |
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k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 5 还是户外呆着好些，tech talk的人多
本来游泳版也差不多的，现在夏天来了，大家都跑游泳版去灌水了
估计多些日子，我在LA版也灌不动了 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 6 Depends on the area. Red Rocks, yes; Red/New River Gorge, no. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 Levenworth也还凑合，有一些road side crag，不是很长，但是也有一些3-4 pitch的
线。而且有些真是literally road side，在车上穿好harness和rock shoes出去 |
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d*i
发帖数: 9453 | 8 昨天出去cragging被石头砸了，严重需要休养:( |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 我应该把我的cragging绳子带到Hood climb去的，那俩cowboy们都很牲口 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 10 1. the scene is unbeatable in an amazing area
2. good rock, moderate difficulty
3. tremendous exposure for adrenaline seekers
4. it's a whole alpine package involving hiking, scrambling, bush wacking,
steep snow climbing, rock climbing, and down climbing. it's nothing you will
ever experience at a crag. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12 it's really hard to compare alpine and cragging. it's like comparing apples
and oranges. they could be very similar and could be very different. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 13 Unfortunately that's the trend here in Michigan. Me and another two women in
their late 30s are the only "trad girls" here.
Many people thought I was crazy to do the 9-mile approach for Wind River,
and reasoned "if there are endless bolted climbs, why bother trad?" Red
River Gorge is becoming a zoo, and sometimes I can even smell the sweat
along the entire crag. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 I have one too. It's on the heavy side but I use it for cragging only. One
small concern is that it's a little fat for Reverso 3. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 no big deal even if you belay a follower. it's just less smooth. I do that
all the time. My next cragging rope would be a little thinner though.
to |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 17 今年crag的课两种都教，不过好像已经倾向于Equalette了。
不复杂，Cordelettes虽然看起来简单，我觉得要调整的平衡比Equalette费时间，当然
可能因为我就没怎么practice。Equalette熟了很快，调整起来比较简单，我觉得哈。
两本书合起来形成的，前一本是讲单个的确保点，后一本是讲确保点系统。很详细，算
是类似领域的开山之作。
Equalette和Quad评价很高。这个Equalette目前在climb中使用的广泛程度到底如何？
实际弄起来还是有点复杂，要是pitch比较多后来大概会发昏，大家对这个是什么看法？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 I don't know any good climber who does equalette a lot when they free climb,
including both your crag instructors. It just takes forever and it doesn't
equalize well anyway. It's something nice to learn and practice though.
If you can't find 3 good pieces to build a good anchor when you are free
climbing, you are certainly not climbing at the same level as I do and this
discussion is totally out of question.
法？ |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 19 you are going with skinner ropes? I figure for cragging at yosemite, a pound
or two lighter is not as important as better abrasion resistance.
you |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 20 才发现我今年只爬了两次sports，差点都忘掉爬sports啥感觉了。昨天本来想去爬trad
的，结果在RRG的parking lot居然遇到了Jack和Grace，两人斩钉截铁要爬sports，于
是爬了sports...
真是small world啊。Jack introduced me to climbing in Yosemite a month ago,
and this time I introduced him to climbing at my home crag, Red River Gorge. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 If you end up doing multi pitch trad route, investing $30 on another device
is no big deal considerng how much you spend on the rack. ATC is the most
versatile device and I truely believe it should be on the rack of every
climber: alpine, cragger, or sport.
When I climb trad multi pitch, I exclusively belay with a petzl reverso 3,
and use autolock 90% of the time.
When I climb alpine rock, I always use an ATC.
When I climb at a sport crag, I usually bring an ATC and a Grigri.
guide |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 22 I've only been there three times. I bet you'll spend a lot of time at Oak
Creek Canyon. Solar Slab (and many of its variations, including the 5.9
chimney variation, called some book I think) are must-do. The original route
is 11-pitch 5.6, and lots of its variations are nice too. We did the
Sunflower variation (5.9) and liked it. Use the gulley repel. Don't try to
repel Johney Vegas or your rope will get seriously stuck.
Brass Wall is very nice and soaks in the sun. It gets some 1-2 pitch stuffs... 阅读全帖 |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 23 torso length我不记得了，有日子没有买过包了。
身高体重都不重要，除了torso要fit，包的设计满足你的需求之外，
就看你背的感觉了。
Jade系列还有一款60，大一些，设计也稍有不同。
不知道你买包目的是啥，如果就是背着出去cragging，Jade 50我都嫌大。 |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 24 from Rock&Ice
Written by Andrew Bisharat
There’s nothing better than going on a climbing trip. The opportunity to
travel is the greatest perk in any climber’s life. There is climbing in
every country on earth … just point to some place on the globe, and if you
’re a climber you automatically have a reason to go there. Think about it.
It’s pretty cool. (No, seriously, think about it. See? Pretty cool.)
I’d say 10 days is the minimum amount of time for a climbing trip to be “
worth it,” though I’v... 阅读全帖 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 25
没错，在雷劈看jay, 阿甘爬14的线，简直太漂亮了。我自己爬的线就很ugly,不知道
其它面向beginner的crag是不是好点。
六指
point
同意，大家都说阳朔需要一个礼拜适应，碰见的岩友大多数都呆几个月，江源小妹桃子
开始
问我呆多久，我说10天，觉得还比较长吧，然后发现她没说话，一副非常不impressed
的样子，
呵呵。
和你爬这个的小伙子我们去的时候也在，我还和他提了你回去，他说了没有? :) |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 alpine绳子两个season就差不多了。不过alpine的绳子跟cragging的绳子基本不会混用 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 27 US only...
A few requirements:
1. Very close to a decent ski resort and a climbing crag. For obvious
reasons.
2. Abundant hiking/running/biking nearby. Alpine climbing is not important.
3. Cheap housing price. So that I can retire early and not forced to work to
own a house there.
4. Close to a major university. So that my kids can go there and it's easy
for me to visit them.
5. Reasonable weather.
Things like Chinese resturant, are irrelavent to me and are not being
considered.
I think somewher... 阅读全帖 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 28 Cragging at Tieton and Vantage, skiing at White Pass. Hiking at Rainier
during summmer when Chinook pass is open. Sunny weather. Cheap house. Close
enough to Seattle. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 But for 5 months of the year, it's not easy to drive to Seattle. It's not
exactly close anyway. Cragging at Tieton and Vantage is nothing compared to
Smith Rock. I don't know much about White Pass resort though. Any good?
Close |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 30
那次终于有了点alpine的感觉， valley里面海拔低的地方
就算是6个pitch也是感觉在cragging.
你要和我混一定会进步的，上次pink就是被我逼做rope gun
进步很大，呵呵。 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 31
这个我可能夏天抓着个partner就爬了，不过也可以再陪你们爬。
这个我几年前follow过，印象中不难，最后可以走不runout的exit.
这个估计很难
这个我两都lead p1了，p2只有三十尺的样子，爬不爬无所谓了。
。。。这个能力范围。。看我今年能花多少时间爬了，很难说，去年新年愿望lead 5.7trad做到了，但是再往上感觉不容易，所以今年就没什么目标了；而且长的
multipitch trad不想push难度，尤其带着ld。 倒是希望能多练练sports leading和去joshua tree/smith rocks cragging。
了。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 32 这也是我觉得获益匪浅的两本书。
我去年boulder比较多，数字也涨得很快，半年从V2到了V4-V5。代价就是我从2001－
2009年从来没有因为攀岩受过伤，所有的拉伤扭伤都是2010年boulder留下的手腕脚腕
手指伤。有一次是掉下来直接手指戳在垫子上，还有一次荡得太远，直接被甩到了硬的
地面。所以俺现在是俺家gg不给我spot就不boulder。
我们这里离最近的crag太远，来回13个小时（近的也有几个但太差没人去）。周围爬在
5.13级别的人都是一周3－5次在gym爬路线和抱石的。毕竟不是所有地方都像boston那
样爬起来那么方便的。 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 33 后面很多人总结的都很好很全面啊。
我印象比较深刻的是没有注意不同石头的性质， 去陌生地方爬的时候用local crag的
经验套；我自己也是习惯了花岗岩的良好硬度和摩擦力，以后爬石灰岩一定要小心。
还有就是太信任cam太少用passive pro, 传统新手的通病吧。 |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 34 I would suggest to do rock climb or caving. There are good cragging and some
best caving places in SC, GA.
Wasted my 4 years stay in GA watching TV at home, in stead of going outdoors
. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 35 for what purpose? it's about right for cragging. it's too fat for a general
purpose rope. new england is a good brand. in fact, the brand doesn't really
matter too much. all UIAA/CE certified ropes are safe. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 36 I do alpine climbing as well as crag climbing. |
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N****w
发帖数: 21578 | 37 牛，健将阿
其实喜欢 hiking 的真爽
无数 trail 可以爬
in
which
cragging
the |
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e*******e
发帖数: 1837 | 38 话说Seattle的空气可真是湿润呀.加上海拔低,上次去走起来觉得氧气怎么都够用的样
子.:-)
in
which
cragging
the |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 39 Thanks for the reminder. Will bring helmets with us definitely for any
unknown place.
We will be staying at Provo. Might visit nearby crags as well. No BYU
affiliates here? I am mildly interested in the following route (maybe just
the first 8 pitches). I am not sure if I can get this done properly without
locals show me the way.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/squawstruck/106897735
narrowly |
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o*****e
发帖数: 379 | 42 Front corridor has an interesting (well protected) 2-pitch 5.7 sports route
(man's best friend) and some 5.9 to 10- routes on the same wall. (We couldn'
t find names of those new routes in any guide book, so the rating is just
our estimate). 60m rope is minimal (need to down scramble a little to the
base). It's right beyond the parking lot, hidden behind a long valley.
Cut the Teeth Crag? in Calico basin also has some long easy sports route. (5
.7-5.10?) Approach takes about 30 mins, but it's a ... 阅读全帖 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 43 我们这里只要天气可以每周都浩浩荡荡好多人去RRG。我们去要单程6个小时，都是周五
下去周日回。你到RRG只有两个小时，周六去周日回就可以了。
试过和版上的人在RRG meetup，但好像就跟wishy一个人真正见过面。其它都是各种原
因没碰上。大家地方不同时间不同地点不同挺难的，RRG很多地方手机没信号。而且大
家都要迁就各自的partner，经常去不了一个crag。所以你最好有自己的partner，如果
联系不上的话不至于干等。
你如果有兴趣pm下你的手机号吧。现在打算下周去。 |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 44 我们今年都用了好几次了。每次去leavenworth cragging都用。
咱几个该啥会子一块出去car camping。过得爽着呢。
这东西现在一年也用不了两次还是得苦练本领，将来能背着爬Rainier就能多用几次了:
D
★ Sent from iPhone App: iReader Mitbbs Lite 7.28 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 huh? you made some interesting assumptions. you left a piece of gear in a
crack and expect people not booty it? I'd be interested to know which crag
has that kind of convention. it's like finding a $20 bill on the side walk
and not to pocket it.
Of course, unless you think it's the guy that you talked to who took the
gear. |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 46 Thanks for the suggestion. Hueco Wall looks like a great place to get
started.
I have a few questions: it the trail head leading to Hueco Wall same as that
of Echo Cliffs? How long is the hike to HW, roughly?
Also, we will have more than one day for climbing. What other crags would
you recommend?
Thanks again. |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 47 完全没有谈不上吧，各种课还是挺多的。
Crag climbing， sports climbing, water ice, advanced alpine, aid/big wall,
small party self rescue, multi pitch efficiency等都是有基础之后的各个专项。
不过外地的确实时间没法弄。Club里面的instructor基本都是volunteer，不是靠教课
挣钱的guide，都是业余时间的爱好，weekend warrior，你也不能要求人连着教一星期
课。
这次的intense课instructor怎么弄的我不清楚，summit应该知道。 |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 48 I only tried sports in China. The qualities of area/rock vary a lot. Be sure
to go with someone you trust.
Baihe and 4Du/1Du area (both near Beijing) are the better places to go in
the summer. Tsingtao is decent but may not worth the trip if you are doing
just sports. Yangshuo, Kuming, Liuzhou and Getu are all limestones and
supposed to be good. But you need to check the season.
New crags pop up everywhere but in general I don't like to explore very new
lines unless I really know the situation w... 阅读全帖 |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 49 千万不要跟这样的人玩了。这样无知无畏并且傲慢的团伙，问题不是一点点。
不过，为了他们的安全和将来，能不能把把他们也带到这个版，这样他们可以知道他们
的做法有多么危险。让他们受教，是为了他们好。
具体是在哪个crag, 能够描述得详细一点吗？有照片最好！大家都可以学习。 |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 50 I asked some friend in Beijing to donate some for his family.
On one hand, his wife and he are extremely nice and low key; many climbing
routes around Beijing were equipped by him; his daughter were raised in
climbing gyms and outdoor crags. So I felt a personal connection.
On the other hand, this is, as I recall, at least the third serious accident
he was involved in. He certainly knew the consequences and accepted all
liabilities and responsibilities.
I climbed with Dongdong, the other guy who... 阅读全帖 |
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