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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 体能上，最简单的就是背上35-40磅的包hike至少有3000 elevation gain的trail，最
好是用水做负重，下山的时候倒掉。给你个大致的我们的bench mark: 4 miles, 3300
ft, 2小时及格，1:30优秀。不是说你体能达不到就一定不能登，但是你如果能及格就
会有一定的saftey margin。登山不是跑road race，you can't go all out. when
things happen, rescue might not be immediately available, 即使是Rainier，
rescue也经常是days away
技术上，我们一般都很general的教alpine rock & glacier。我们用的教材是freedom
of the hills 8th edition。书的权威性我不做评价，大家见仁见智。我读过的书也不
少。craig connnally的the mountaineering handbook和cosley & houston的alpine
climbing都是不错的书，但是我不是特别倾... 阅读全帖 |
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d****i
发帖数: 4354 | 3 Glacier Hazards
Crevasses
The glaciers in the park demand respect. Glaciation
is vast throughout the Alaska Range. With tree line
at 1,500 to 3,000 feet (500 to 1000 meters), the
extent of ice covered lands is enormous. Year round
snowfall constantly hides crevasses. Extensive
networks of crevasses exist throughout the range,
and one must consider being roped at all times. Snow
covered crevasses are often hard to detect and many
climbers have been surprised by serious falls. In
late winter and s |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 I wouldn't say falling into crevasses is a rare scenario, it totally depends
on which mountain/route/season you are going to climb.
For a 2-person or 3-person rope team, the fast crevasse rescue method may be
climb up (using prussik or not), or lower off (if one can walk out from the
bottom of crevasses). Setting up a hauling system takes a lot of time, henc
e is not preferred unless ones have to.
But for beginners, this is (or should be) a rare case.
to
when
the |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 5 Please post a TR here when you get back.
I personally found the chute along the Kautz Glacier is very very easy.
Rather, the objective danger such as rock fall and crevass are the crux of
the climb. Nisqually glacier maybe full of crevasses late in the season.
The rockfall also gets more frequent. I had a failed attempt of Kautz Route
in 2005 as I chickened out in front of the maze of crevasses.
. |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 6 Three of us went to Rainier Friday after work. We rested in the Paradise
picnic area for a couple of hours before heading up right after midnight,
intending to climb Kautz Glacier as a day climb (in the strict sense -
starting and finishing on the same calender day).
We made good time initially but after 10k, we were getting slower and slower
as drowsiness and effect of altitude started to get us. We didn't get to
12k, top of the technical section until after 11am.
Beyond 12k, things got interes... 阅读全帖 |
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C*********g
发帖数: 3728 | 7 你提到的La Brea tar pit,想起来在高中学新概念英语的时候看到过，怀念一下年轻时
的岁月：
L. G. Alexander: New Concept English, Book IV
19/49
It is animals and plants which lived in or near water whose remains are
most likely to be preserved, for one of the necessary conditions of
preservation is quick burial, and it is only in the seas and rivers, and
sometimes lakes, where mud and silt have been continuously deposited, that
bodies and the like can be rapidly covered over and preserved.But even in
the most favorable circumstances o... 阅读全帖 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 It was not cold at night, but wind blowing tent turned out to be very noisy.
We did not get good sleep. Getting up at 2:00am, we roped up, put crampons
on, and started to climb by 3:00am. We climbed in darkness, negotiated
crevasses, and reached the first schrund when the first sunlight hit the
glacier. You can not really tell the difference between sunrise and sunset
on glaciers by only looking at photos, but they are both beautiful. Looking
into the abyss of deep crevasses, I felt they were re |
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M********a
发帖数: 190 | 9 Nice climb and report. Glad to see you guys are becoming more and more all
around bad a** climber. How difficult is it to do a crevasse rescue if one
of you fall in the crevasse?
really
another
we
screw |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 10 In comparison, Emmons route is free of rock/ice fall. The only concern is
crevasses. We were so lucky that the condition is excellent. We only had
very few small crevasses to cross. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 If you have a 4-5 personal rope team, direct hauling falling climber out of
the crevasse may be the fastest way.
Also, for climbing out of crevasses, using one BD raven is better than using
one BD raven pro? I see in most of situations, this is a false statement.
waiting
with |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 12 The whole team falling into crevasses is rare, but climbing up is not a rare
ly used way for CR, especially for 2-p or 3-p rope team.
In any case, if the whole rope team falls into the crevasse, they might need
other people's help for rescuing. Chances are slight that they only get min
or injuries and can climb out.
out
may |
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a******g
发帖数: 320 | 13 你确定 Sierra 现在还有 99 个 glacier吗？我印象中只有 Lyell 还有。
也许定义不一样吧。我个人定义有 crevasse 才算。
好像 Shasta 的 crevasse 也不大，真正能掉下去的没有几个。 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 14 Climbing Rainier unroped is not a very good idea. Roped but without knowing
how to perform crevasse rescue is not much better either. Of course, the
chance of falling into a crevasse on DC route is quite remote, but is more
likely than can be neglected. |
|
a***a
发帖数: 12425 | 15 【侏罗纪公园】化石坑
看了一部纪录片，介绍了四个世界著名的化石坑，那里有着保存很完整的各种动植物化
石，这些化石使得我们对史前生态的重要阶段得以进行详细的分析了解，包括他们的外
观，内部构造，饮食习惯，社会生活等等。我看片子的时候做了些记录，上网查了查，
又存了些截屏图片，写个总结，也不知道符不符合征文的规定。如有错误疏忽遗漏或不
妥请指正。
(一) 伯吉斯页岩（Burgess Shale Formation），约五亿三千万年前
一九零九年，美国地质学家查尔斯•都利特•沃尔科特（Charles
Doolittle Walcott）在加拿大的洛基山脉进行野外探查，由于马摔跤无意间找到了一
块化石，随后他发现只有七英尺厚的伯吉斯页岩夹层是所有化石的出处。随后的两年内
，沃尔科特和他的儿子们共收集了六万一千多个样本，在所有发现中有三分之二是科学
新发现，包括以前从未有过的保存完整的软体动物化石。伯吉斯页岩的生物群种类相当
多，有食泥动物，滤食动物和掠食动物。沃尔科特直到一九二七年去世都在研究这些化
石，值得钦佩。
(二) 索伦霍芬石灰岩（Solnhofen... 阅读全帖 |
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a***a
发帖数: 12425 | 16 CharlesSong网友提供的新概念英语上的La Brea Tar Pit文章。重温一下吧（虽然我以
前只看了Puma一篇文）。
【 以下文字转载自 History 讨论区 】
发信人: CharlesSong (每只猫咪都需要定期体检), 信区: History
标 题: 地球上的昔日生命(新概念英语第四册26课)
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Wed Sep 26 10:54:16 2012, 美东)
你提到的La Brea tar pit,想起来在高中学新概念英语的时候看到过，怀念一下年轻时
的岁月：
L. G. Alexander: New Concept English, Book IV
19/49
It is animals and plants which lived in or near water whose remains are
most likely to be preserved, for one of the necessary conditions of
preservation is quick burial, and it is only in ... 阅读全帖 |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 17 Mt. Hood主要是天气多变。从South side/Hogs Back上，是个Class 2的路线，最大坡
度35度左右，不如Mt. Baldy大坡直接上陡。但是如果发生滑坠，可能掉进crevasse，
甚至fume hole里（下场基本是憋死或烫死）。七月初接近攀登季节末尾，落石和掉进
crevasse的危险增大。
Mt. Langley有名额限制，不知道7/4能不能拿到permit。Mt. Russel是个mega class 3
，有一定的exposure。
大家说说。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 Theoretically yes. But I don't feel comfortable climbing with such a team.
When one is in a rescue situation, everything you know would just fly out of
your head. If I am the one in the crevass, I certainly hope that my
partners know crevass rescue method like the back of hand |
|
d*i
发帖数: 9453 | 19 RIP
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2018496302_apus
LONGMIRE, Wash. —
A Mount Rainier climbing ranger has died during efforts to rescue four
injured climbers from Waco, Texas.
Mount Rainier National Park spokesman Kevin Bacher (BAA-ker) says
34-year-old Nick Hall fell 3,000 feet Thursday from the 13,700-foot level
of the 14,411-foot mountain. He was dead when other rangers reached him
several hours later.
A helicopter plucked two of the injured climbers off the mountain Thursday
... 阅读全帖 |
|
d*i
发帖数: 9453 | 20 RIP
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2018496302_apus
LONGMIRE, Wash. —
A Mount Rainier climbing ranger has died during efforts to rescue four
injured climbers from Waco, Texas.
Mount Rainier National Park spokesman Kevin Bacher (BAA-ker) says
34-year-old Nick Hall fell 3,000 feet Thursday from the 13,700-foot level
of the 14,411-foot mountain. He was dead when other rangers reached him
several hours later.
A helicopter plucked two of the injured climbers off the mountain Thursday
... 阅读全帖 |
|
a***k
发帖数: 1038 | 21 【 以下文字转载自 paladin 讨论区 】
发信人: atack (小军号), 信区: paladin
标 题: 红死病 by 杰克.伦敦
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Sat Oct 11 07:40:15 2014, 美东)
I
The way led along upon what had once been the embankment of a railroad. But
no train had run upon it for many years. The forest on either side swelled
up the slopes of the embankment and crested across it in a green wave of
trees and bushes. The trail was as narrow as a man's body, and was no more
than a wild-animal runway.
Occasionally, a piece of rusty iron, showing through ... 阅读全帖 |
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f*********y
发帖数: 166 | 22 I can understand that Simon cut the rope under that desperation but I do
blame him for not looking for Joe that next day. When I saw him walking by
the crevass where Joe fell into, I was so mad. Only if he stopped for a
minute he would have heard Joe was calling for help!
did |
|
s*****n
发帖数: 617 | 23 那个和科州这些山头不是一个级别的,好象要先学crevasse rescue才行的, 俺目前只会
用ice axe在衣服上戳洞:) |
|
e****8
发帖数: 82 | 24 转帖： hiking装备谈
发信人: TrueCabbage (:+), 信区: Outdoors
标 题: 户外版FAQ
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Aug 26 21:46:48 2008), 转信
最近很多网友提过户外版也应该和健身版，自行车版一样， 搞一个FAQ,这个建议很好
，我们以前有过很多讨论，但是没有好好整理，以至于很多宝贵的经验或者流失，或者
难以查询．
这个帖子征集大家写FAQ,我在下面列一下主题，大家能写哪部分的，可以约稿，我会及
时更新．约稿的可以直接回这个帖子，说明你要写哪部分，内容既可以是你自己的一手
经验，也可以是你学习之后的心得，或者是有用的网站，书籍，video
请热爱户外版的网友们都分享出你们的经验，一个版是否有价值，不止在于你能从这个
版获得多少，也在于你能为这个版贡献多少．
对于写FAQ专题的，我们会给出伪币奖励．暂定一个专题100伪币．同一个专题不限一个
人写，每个人都有自己的经验，我们需要经验的汇总．
下面是我暂时拟定的征稿专题，我个人对水上运动不是很了解，这部分如果有需求，麻
烦肥猫补充吧．对于我遗漏的，也会及时补充更新．
户... 阅读全帖 |
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J******h
发帖数: 6102 | 25 已经有两年了， 从门前500尺的土包到Santa Monica 3000尺的山头，再到Angeles群山中
7000， 8000，乃至11000尺的高峰，都已拜访。如果再去过14000英尺的Whitney，转身
看看，在往上爬该去哪里？
上周看了看Alaska的山，终年冰雪，气候恶劣。被吓了一个跟头回来。那么周围还有更
高些的么？甚至南美和北非？
我猜想不论在哪里，高度15000尺以上恐怕都需要些冰雪攀登的经验，守着一个秃头山
，只有冬天才能练练。 何况秃头山上也看不到crevasse, avalanche. |
|
J******h
发帖数: 6102 | 26 对于我，如果想要爬更高的山，backpacking是必不可少的训练。另外一项是雪地训练
，今年冬天俺
要多做几次，适应各种雪情，和绳队的练习。只可惜la没有常年冬雪，没法进行
crevasse的联系。 |
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J******h
发帖数: 6102 | 27 whitney之后，俺看清了爬山，爬高山，爬雪山还是俺努力的方向。现在要下定决心，
积极准备，同时也要招摇撞骗，招兵买马。
timberline在12000英尺左右，这个高度以上，要么是冰雪覆盖，有么是参差。更何况
这种高山都不是dayhike所能拿下的。针对这种情况，今年冬天计划着重联系：
1）雪山经验，着重欺负秃头山，初雪爬，复雪爬，融雪也爬，努力适应不同雪况,大坡
直上直下。只可惜秃头山没有avalanche,crevasse，但绳队可以练习。
2）野营经验。overnight packing,克服需要洗澡不能混帐的心理障碍，紧跟山妮，肥
猫，爬雪山，挖雪洞。
3）9月开学在即，正是野营器具打折的季节，制定采购计划，帐篷，炉灶，背包，全面
鸟枪换炮。
恳请la各个隐居或显居的爬界前辈出山或支持，出人出力。也煽动新手从现在开始加盟
。高山之巅，白雪融融，云低天高，风景无限。 |
|
|
R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 29 Summary:
DC不需要route finding省了很多精力，travese的路都给踩出来了，省了很多体力
DC最陡的那段guiding companies set up 好了fixed rope
这次天气晴好，很多地方都不用crampon，我穿的super gaiter的boot也太热了
大概有１０个左右的cravasse，早点出发，过snowbridge安全，走起来也轻松，而且也
有人照应
如果你是和我一样的天气去，少带衣服，多带水，大概每１小时吃一个energy bar补充
体力
一罐气刚刚好够２人化雪煮吃的，刚好完全用完
防晒，防晒，防晒！我已经每几个小时补了防晒霜,一有空就拿个防晒sticker在脸上乱
涂一通了，可是上山和下山肤色还是差太多了！
注：所有iphone照片都是我照的，所有DSLR照片都是我partner照的
话说为什么要爬Rainier，我现在已经忘掉了，但我去年把它列上了今年的to do list
，所以一定是有理由的，待我想起来再补充。之前和板上大牛stargazing交流了下，大
牛说得实在太简单了，效仿大牛会死很惨。所以我还是认认真真准备起来。年... 阅读全帖 |
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s*******n
发帖数: 12995 | 30 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: sturgeon (sturgeon), 信区: Travel
标 题: 《征文》Rainier 登山与徒步 （1）
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Jul 24 16:01:19 2012, 美东)
今年西雅图之旅主要目的是LD要爬Mt Rainier. Rainier是雪山需要用到alpine
climbing技术。我们并没有太多登山经验，只有雇向导带跟队走。8月天气最好是登山
的旺季，但太暖和山上的雪可能都变成冰了不一定好走。原计划赶在美国国庆期间少用
假期。3月开始找向导公司，Mt Rainier NP官网上有3家大的向导公司RMI，IMG,Alpine
Ascents International。后来在山上听人说也有小公司，说了个名字没记住。好像大
公司的队是4向导8客户。小公司是2向导4客户。有人直接找向导最后也是跟在大公司的
队里。入门路线是Muir disappointment cleaver route。惊讶的发现已经全部爆满。
中级路线 kautz glacier route还有几个空位，但是没有Cr... 阅读全帖 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 31 It's risker to go to Camp Schurman than to Camp Muir, but not by much.
Bad weather imposes far more risk than these benign crevasses on Inter
glacier. |
|
z****8
发帖数: 35 | 32 After the traverse, the terrain became much easier. It was steeper than
before, but there were no crevasses to contend with, and no more overhanging
ice blocks or loose rocks overhead. Now it was just a simple matter to
putting one foot in front of the other and we would be on summit sooner or
later.
At this moment, the weather was still good, but the altitude hit me fully on
. I felt so nauseous that I was sure moving just a tiny bit faster than my
crawling pace, I would throw up. I also had sl |
|
c****u
发帖数: 8308 | 33 不知道大家是否提起过这个话题.
没法回西藏时我是在科罗拉多练. 主要是攀冰和冰雪技术.
如果正规攀冰,上课,可以到Ouray Ice Park. 我是solo climb, 所以一般在冬季通往
continental divide 的trail 周围的瀑布上,先攀冰,下来后可以去继续练冰川.
按照地理概念来讲,科罗拉多contiental divide的东坡有14个glacier, 但我个人经历
的只有两个:
Tyndall Glacier最陡最险,接近壁顶有横贯的巨大冰川crevasses, 只有冬季偶尔冻结
实了才能过人,否则下去就上不来. 我在这里练过行进,横切.
Andrews Giacier面积最大,也有巨大裂缝,但坡度只有40多度,接近顶会有65度. 非常适
合glacier ascending, 我在这里练习过行进,结组,滑坠制动.
练习snowshoes,想用在新疆慕士塔格的,我在12月到1月爬过mt elbert, 而且当时风极
大. 有点感觉, 唯一败兴的就是树林子, 好多时间都花在找路上了. |
|
a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 34 sounds good. even though i don't climb, i can still practice aid-climbing
after fall in a crevasse |
|
a******g
发帖数: 320 | 35 这些都是比较 basic 的 snow travel 技能。
加州没有讲 crevasse 的，上再多课都爬不了 Rainier。
WA 和 OR 的 mounteering club 的课程安排太长，不知道有没有一周左右的
速成 workshop。有合适的就飞过去上。 |
|
s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 36 估计这课也是为大多数爬麦金利的人准备的。。
总结下涉及的技术吧。。
Day１：knots, map and compass, or other appropriate skill sessions.
Day２：Emphasis will be placed on glacier travel and crevasse rescue
techniques, as well as a review of fundamental climbing techniques, team
rope travel and team arrest.
Day ３：We will spend the day on the glacier refining our travel skills
including running belays and fixed rope travel. We will may add additional
training including steep climbing, self rescue, team rescue, and possibly
ice climbing |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 37 所以说：好好的，上啥登山课。
有目标以后就有动力了，比如我想去Shasta，最近看了几本登山的书，以前买来很久都
没动过。要不要找几个人夏天去Garibaldi或者Rainier，入伙的条件是上过Glacier
Travel & Crevasse Rescue的课。 |
|
k*****a
发帖数: 823 | 38 到了matanuska glacier与其glacier hiking不如攀冰，反正都是要在glacier走的。没
有glacier经验和装备严重不建议自己到冰川上乱探索，glacier上找路不容易，而且本
身一直就是在变，不小心掉到crevasse里就麻烦了，如果底下有水人能活的时间估计不
超过15分钟。
to
the |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 39 It is a little harder to do CR for two-person rope team. If one falls, the
other one must stop falling and build anchor all by self.
Also, if the situation is complex, for example, one falls into crevasse and
gets hurt, they other one has to deal everything (time-consuming), and build
a complex hauling system.
But, if these two person have similiar weight, and experience, it is much
safer than being on a rope team with two or more inexperienced climbers.
and
to
some
fell
going
4 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 Looks like some one fell in a crevasse. there is no audio or script. I can't
tell which glacier it is so far |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 Injured Climber Being Rescued On Mount Rainier
Posted: 2:34 pm PDT July 1, 2009
Updated: 3:58 pm PDT July 1, 2009
MOUNT RAINIER, Wash. -- The rescue of an injured climber is in progress at
an area close to Camp Sherman on Mount Rainier, a park spokesman said.
Park spokesman Stephan Lofgren said the 27-year-old man was skiing down
Emmons Glacier from the summit when he fell about 40 feet into a crevasse.
The man was with another climber who called for help.
Rescuers pulled the injured man from th |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 43 I thought you don't have to deal with crevasse/fume holes in Whitney MR
route. |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 44 这么说结组不是必须，亏了。本来有打算7/4爬个hood，研究了一下发现有fume holes
，加上攀登季节快结束，crevasse露出来，所以取消计划了。
不过看看这么多人，估计7/4人更多，以后再说吧。 |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 45 It's only half way to the summit from high camp.
Both sides are wide crevasses.A mis-step, you are gone... |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 46 In average, Rainier claims one life per year. That is not an EASY mountain
in my dictionary. Interestingly, many lives are lost on Muir Snowfield,
which is considered a very moderate slope without crevasses.
Emmons route doesn't have rock/ice fall problem. But in a hot summer day,
you need to pass all the snow bridges when they are still stable. Putting
all other factors aside, it is a very strenuous route nontheless. 10k ft up
and down with full packs on the glacier, half of which in thin air i |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 47 我们去年爬 Rainier DC路线的时候有一个crevasse都被guide放了个梯子，省了我们至
少20分钟绕路的时间，呵呵 |
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s********e
发帖数: 814 | 48 周末参加一个Crevasse Rescue & Snow Anchors课程，听instructor说计划是关闭公园，停
止维护trail和其他设施。但是保留
甚至增加巡逻人力。。。 太愚蠢了。。。
对了，周六Gunks那边还有抗议游行 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 49 this pulley is very good for self crevasse rescue and rock rescue
I always have one on my harness
climbing? |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 50 如果你会crevasse rescue，并且能找到队友和你一起爬rainier，你可以试试
Vegas |
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