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全部话题 - 话题: crux
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b***y
发帖数: 824
1
来自主题: Outdoors版 - "Scary" Canary crux move video
"Scary" Canary crux move video http://www.summitpost.org/route/161002/canary.html
Video taken by the "Jim Nelson"
o*****e
发帖数: 379
2
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] Ingalls Peak / East Ridge
星期天的Ingalls本来是别的mentor group的private climb,刚好多出来一个位置,我
运气好,加了个塞,呵呵。天气预报一直很不乐观,星期天是20%的降雨概率,但之前
之后几天都有降水,Josh说如果星期天的预报再多10%的概率,他就取消了,但是没有
;于是星期六的傍晚,我们按计划出发。一路大雨滂沱,离开I-90之后只有很短的一段
路云开了,能看得到水洗过的淡淡的天空;Ingalls的trail head附近天又阴沉了下来
。我们只能寄希望于明天那片没有云的区域能飘到我们头顶。晚上在停车场边上camp的
,半夜的时候下过几阵很短的急雨,打在我的帐篷上稀里哗啦的响。星期天早上5点一
刻起床,收拾东西吃饭,在停车场分东西。我和Tristan一组,他管绳子,我管rack。
好重的一大串铁块啊,我是这个摸摸那个碰碰、哪个也舍不得留下啊。最后Josh帮我挑
了一下,留下了一些最小的和中间偏大的nuts,剩下的也还是挺沉的。其实最后我和
Tristan整条线最后只用了Cam,C3的#2,C4从.3到3,double了.5到2的4个。以后有经
验了,rack应该能轻不少,平常p... 阅读全帖
s*****n
发帖数: 617
3
来自主题: Colorado版 - [TR] Crestone Traverse and Humboldt
[TR] Crestone Traverse and Humboldt - South Colony Lake 14er Sweep
爬这几个山头是年初就和山友T计划好的,因为T的工作性质,请假必须提前好几个月通
知,我们就把日子定在奥运开幕前的那个周末。至于到时候天气如何,只能撞大运了,
反正爬山本来就是靠天吃饭,三天之后的气象预报就不怎么靠谱,索性来个拣日不如撞
日。行程如下:
周四早退数小时,和T汇合后开车至South Colony Lake Upper TH,步行约三迈半到
South Colony Lake,在11,500’左右扎营。
周五从Red Gully上Crestone Peak,然后 traverse到Crestone Needle;
周六上Humboldt,顺便拿下边上一个centennial 13er Columbia Point,下山回家。
先说一下approach,以前如果你有4WD的话可以一直开到离湖边一迈的地方,一到周末
就热闹无比,除了爬山的,还有钓鱼、露营、狂欢的各色人等。近年来ZF寅吃卯粮,入
不敷出,林业局(Forest Service)表示压力... 阅读全帖
E*******e
发帖数: 1371
4
迟到的游记,都快两个月前的事了,赶紧写出来凑热闹(好像版上也没啥热闹的啊?)
----------------------------
编辑:mitbbs上贴图太不给力了,图太小经常还显示不完全。
我把这个帖子放在google sites上,可以点以下链接看,可能图看起来舒服点。
http://sites.google.com/site/zksposts/home/el-diente---mt-wilso
----------------------------
前言:科州14er的四大traverse
不知道最早是不是Gerry Roach提出的,反正大家形成了共识,在科州相邻14er山峰之
间的traverse中,挑出了四个作为最经典的所谓4 great traverses。估计这里的标准
是两端都是14er山峰、尽量沿山脊不损失太多高度、比分别登两山快、有趣有难度、普
通人还可以完成。这四个分别是:
Little Bear-Blanca
Maroon-North Maroon
Crestone-Needle
El Diente-Mt Wilson
虽说没有公认的排名,但是一般认为... 阅读全帖
E*******e
发帖数: 1371
5
迟到的游记,都快两个月前的事了,赶紧写出来凑热闹(好像版上也没啥热闹的啊?)
----------------------------
编辑:mitbbs上贴图太不给力了,图太小经常还显示不完全。
我把这个帖子放在google sites上,可以点以下链接看,可能图看起来舒服点。
http://sites.google.com/site/zksposts/home/el-diente---mt-wilso
----------------------------
前言:科州14er的四大traverse
不知道最早是不是Gerry Roach提出的,反正大家形成了共识,在科州相邻14er山峰之
间的traverse中,挑出了四个作为最经典的所谓4 great traverses。估计这里的标准
是两端都是14er山峰、尽量沿山脊不损失太多高度、比分别登两山快、有趣有难度、普
通人还可以完成。这四个分别是:
Little Bear-Blanca
Maroon-North Maroon
Crestone-Needle
El Diente-Mt Wilson
虽说没有公认的排名,但是一般认为... 阅读全帖
s*****n
发帖数: 617
6
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] Crestone Traverse and Humboldt
[TR] Crestone Traverse and Humboldt - South Colony Lake 14er Sweep
爬这几个山头是年初就和山友T计划好的,因为T的工作性质,请假必须提前好几个月通
知,我们就把日子定在奥运开幕前的那个周末。至于到时候天气如何,只能撞大运了,
反正爬山本来就是靠天吃饭,三天之后的气象预报就不怎么靠谱,索性来个拣日不如撞
日。行程如下:
周四早退数小时,和T汇合后开车至South Colony Lake Upper TH,步行约三迈半到
South Colony Lake,在11,500’左右扎营。
周五从Red Gully上Crestone Peak,然后 traverse到Crestone Needle;
周六上Humboldt,顺便拿下边上一个centennial 13er Columbia Point,下山回家。
先说一下approach,以前如果你有4WD的话可以一直开到离湖边一迈的地方,一到周末
就热闹无比,除了爬山的,还有钓鱼、露营、狂欢的各色人等。近年来ZF寅吃卯粮,入
不敷出,林业局(Forest Service)表示压力... 阅读全帖
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
7
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 感恩节 - Red Rock
Yeah I'm interested. Still want to do Frogland, Crimson Chrysalis, Solar
Slab.
Also on my list are Black Opheus and Prince of Darkness if I have a strong
partner. I should be able to lead the crux pitches, at least I can french
free the crux of Black Opheus. We did quite some routes in Oak Creek Canyon
last winter and I'm familiar with all the retreat routes there. I can lead
Y2K too if someone want to do it with me. The crux is a bolt-protected 5.10b
roof.
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
8
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 阳朔day5-7
Day 5 雷劈山
天很冷,下着点小雪,小风嗖嗖的,我们还是到了雷劈山。雷劈山以线路难著称,有著
名的“惊雷”和“闪电”。两个韩国人上来就拿一个5.13热身。两个中国gg挂了一条5.
11c,我坐在那里看着,德国人跑过来说,太冷了,我们爬点啥吧,然后就指着一条线
说,你爬这个吧,我给你保护。我一抬头,那是“奇异”,5.12b,于是坚定地说,不
!德国人说,你试试吧,我说,不!我把东西拿到一条5.10d 仰角的chimney,说,就
它了。大个子德国人比我重50斤,跟他爬只能我lead他follow,他一定对我的先锋能力
非常无奈。他一再说,重50斤你也可以先锋保护啊,我还是说,I prefer not.
5.10d chimney非常有意思,里面可以各种蹲着挂着休息,翻一个屋檐,第二个chimney
要转身进去,然后转回去挂快挂,再翻个屋檐结束。德国人轻松地follow上去了。他个
头太大,根本就是在chimney外面爬的,都没钻进去。
然后我去爬一个5.11c,德国人用5.11c顶上的anchor把下面一个5.13a的快挂都挂上,
自己顶绳摸动作去了。5.11c中间crux掉了几个点... 阅读全帖
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
9
来自主题: _Climbing版 - 3rd rock climbing at Red River Gorge
周六在Sunbeam Butress爬了5.9, 5.9+, 5.10*2, 5.11。周日去了Chica Bonita (西班
牙语,意思是漂亮姑娘:P)。完成了我人生第一个trad lead。gg先爬的,我clean,然
后我lead。然后gg去clean并检查gear placement。当然我因为紧张放了两倍于他的
gear。本来我说找个5.6以下的,结果发现5.7也没有想象的那么难。之后gg就不肯爬
trad了。我只好抓了Dave去爬一个5.8 trad。被Dave说胆子太大了,第二个trad lead
就爬5.8。但这条线是这个climbing area的一条经典路线,好容易空出来了,非常
solid的crack,让我跃跃欲试。我对自己placing gear还是挺有信心的,就是动作比较
慢,不够efficient。上了20ft以后就只能每放一个gear要一个take了。太紧张。上了
大约45ft以后就到crux了,一个lay back。实在没办法一边lay back一边place gear,
即使上crux之前放了不同方向的两个很solid的cam,上crux之前看好了要
c*******r
发帖数: 13580
10
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Climbing log: 11/23, Frenchman Coulee
Crux of the day: looking for the trail leading to Sunshine Wall. We wasted
at least half an hour wandering around. Finally another group was headed
there and we followed.
1. Warmed up with a 5.6 Trad: Chapstick. There were probably a few 5.6 moves
but otherwise low 5. Only set 3 pros.
2. With the previous anchor set, we top roped the neighbor 5.7: "Another
notch in my lipstick case", which can be led as a trad. The crux is probably
a hard 5.7 or even 5.8, especially compared with the previous 5.
n*****a
发帖数: 1327
11
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 20090621_pinnacle national monument
i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but
there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to
figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from
below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right
move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good.
a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead
of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
12
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 有人想感恩节去Red Rocks攀岩么
你如果跟着club当然慢。如果两个人一个lead一个clean,谁也不hanging dog,半天就
爬完gallary了,再半天就爬完black corredor。second pull out还有一些小地方也可
以爬sports,基本就这么多了。
Prince of darkness是mixed climb,6-pitch 5.10c。算上可以爬一天,但leader要能
lead 5.11才可以,整个路线都是hard 5.10s,crux pitch还是个mixed climb,有一小
段finger crack,要么就是5.10b R。上次因为approach耽误时间太长bail了这条线,
但bail之前我们已经过了crux。我想看看这次我能不能lead下来
o*****e
发帖数: 379
13
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] S Early Winter Spire / S Arete
星期三傍晚出发的,特意晚一些走,还是赶上了traffic的尾巴,好在堵的不是很厉害
。8点多HWY 20上一前不着村后不着店的地方看见捕获了猎物的警车一枚,太险恶了…
10点到的Blue Lake TH,睡觉。
第二天早上7点出发,抬头可以看到一个金字塔形状的summit在茂密的树林之上。开始
沿着trail走,很平缓,1.5 miles之后左手边有很明显的climber’s trail往上,绝大
多数时候condition很好,只有中间一、两个地方需要从slab的石头上翻过去。因为之
前下了一个多星期的雨,有些石头还比较滑。最后上到climb base的很小一段路是
boulder。从刚离开trail的地方就可以很清楚地看到这个base,认路不难。
9点到的base,Andrew带Mei先爬,Marc带我和Robert。crux在第一个pitch刚开始的地
方,
(crux在紫色绳子第一个pro,那个三角形的洞那里)
从底下看似乎左边走更容易,不过description上说是从右边的crack直接上去。Andrew
爬到那个5.5 move的岔路口,选的是左边的finger crac
f********t
发帖数: 4574
14
来自主题: Outdoors版 - TR: Joshua Tree 2/14/2009
The rough texture definitely helped. I also like thumb down hand jam better.
It looks like you were over the crux in the picture. Did you try Sexy
Grandma on the right while you were there? I almost strained my hamstring to
get over the crux.

I
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
15
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] Mt.Hood Wy'East
没时间详细写,写个简单的TR吧
路线: Mt.Hood Wy'East
早晨2:40出发,Trail head 5900ft, 4am到7600ft,从那里向东,下降400ft到white
river glacier,然后上到 white river glacier和Newton Clark glacier之间的ridge
, 从那里沿着40度左右的雪坡一直到summit ridge(10000ft), 沿着summit ridge一路
向北向上,早晨10点半到10800ft,离顶峰还有几百尺,这里是crux,55度左右的雪坡
,下面是悬崖,设了两根绳子的fixed line,10个人的大group通过这段很慢,从第一
个人开始lead,到最后一个人通过,用了3个半小时。过了crux,再往上走几分钟就登
顶了。 下午3点登顶,然后从南线Pearly gate rappel/down climb, 到hogsback,4pm
回到hogsback,5:50pm回到trail head
Total elevation gain 5700ft
总共用时15小时10分
Gear notes:
c*******r
发帖数: 13580
16
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 6/5 Prime Rib 11 pitches sport route
Didn't see this post till now. Yes, there is a 23 pitch sport route called
Infinite Bliss, crux being 5.10c, the 19th pitch. 21st pitch is a 10a. The
rest pitches are moderate.
If you are willing to lead the crux pitch, we may give it a try, but
definitely not this season. I have led a few 5.10 sport routes, but doing it
after 20 pitches is a whole different story.

.
S********g
发帖数: 922
17
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 问一下关于falling的问题。
星期天刚took first fall ever on trad lead. Gunks 5.9+, crux at a big roof.
Under the roof plug了一个yellow mastercam, 一个brown tri-cam,1 foot下面还塞
了个red camalot.试了好几次一直没有敢commit,最有commit没有翻上去,warning
partner,然后吊了2,3秒钟,然后fall。。。。all air。。。pretty scary but
actually not as bad as I expected...
Damn Gunks, always crux move at a huge roof...
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
18
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Yosemite流水
Day 2. Nutcracker (5-pitch 5.8)。之所以经典,这条线有5.8 lieback, 5.8
friction slab (slightly runout), 5.8 roof, and a committed 5.8 bouldary
mantle move。Crux的mantle如果fall的话下面是个小斜坡,好些人这里摔坏了脚踝。
还是比较serious的一条5.8路线。
pitch 1. 5.7 lieback + 5.8 lieback。照片是我在lead 5.8 lieback的部分
pitch 2. 5.4 Qun基本是走上去的,都没怎么放pro
pitch 3. 5.7 这是我爬过的最难的5.7了,sustained + slippery。Great lead, Qun!
pitch 4. 5.8 Crux的5.8 friction slab我一开始还走错了,down climb下来。topo上的
piton很隐蔽,我走过了回头才发现的。这个pitch很长,zigzag,又sustained,我后
来把gear和
sling全用完了,在离topo
b***y
发帖数: 824
19
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 周末攀岩二、三事
Aglee, radios is helpful but not neccesary if you know what you are doing.
Got similar issues on last Sunday's 6 pitch trad route. I chickened for the
crux section and my partner has to push on for the finger cracks after a
traverse. He got huge rope drag on those crux moves. Even double runner for
the turning point did not help much and should have used the cortlette. No
radios, and shouting just gone with the wind. Feels on the rope tension
tells you if your partner is building the anchor or y... 阅读全帖
o*****e
发帖数: 379
20
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] Ingalls Peak / East Ridge
Well... None of us has been there before, so overkill feels more comfortable.
Guide book suggests pro to 3.5; most TR we found online and in club website
suggests #4 for crux protect. I ended up using a #3 though.
Josh suggests me to bring #8-10 hex at the trail head to cover the same
range as big cams. We didn't know what the "crux" will look like.
For anchors, we used natural protection + an additional cam for multi-
directional. I am not sure whether a sling around a rock could take serious
u... 阅读全帖
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
21
来自主题: Outdoors版 - El Potrero Chico
刚从EPC回来。EPC的信息这个网站上很全,不过有些信息有点过时
http://potrerochico.org/
安全:EPC还是很安全的。过去几年里由于贩毒分子作乱,EPC攀岩的人少了很多,但最
近治安好些了以后今年冬天人数又反弹回几年前的规模了。Monterrey街上有很多拿
machine gun的警察,尤其是天黑以后到处警灯闪耀,还是不要随便乱跑。听开车从美
国来EPC的人说,路上有人会偷你的车牌,然后要给钱才还给你。从Monterrey到
Hidalgo有bus,但没有bus到EPC,下了bus以后要走50分钟的上坡路。Taxi走toll road
的话只需要45分钟。不要从机场或者bus station临时叫出租车,司机一般不会说英文
或者找不到地方。所以比较安全的选择是飞到Monterrey,然后请Magic Ed http://magicedspotrerochico.com/来接。一般camp ground和house rental都提供接机服务。我们坐的是Magic Ed的车,他在EPC呆了20多年了,bolt了很多经典的路线。听老头讲八卦还是很有趣的。
我们住在... 阅读全帖
D****2
发帖数: 2656
22
indieWIRE INTERVIEW | "Lust, Caution" Director Ang Lee
By Erica Abeel | Indiewire
September 26, 2007 at 9:53AM
There's no lack of buzz around "Lust, Caution," the latest provocation from
Ang Lee. Though tepidly received by some Stateside reviewers, who found more
caution than lust, it collected the Golden Lion in Venice (Lee's second in
three years following "Brokeback Mountain"). "Lust" marks not only Lee's
return to a Chinese-based milieu--with his trademark agility, he once again
tackles a ne... 阅读全帖
m****r
发帖数: 1904
23
我是来自耶证。如果没记错的话,方舟子虽然不是基督徒,但是他有一篇关于十字架的
文章,做过比较深入的分析,得出的结论可以和耶证互为补充,但是结论是类似的。
以下是耶证对于“苦刑柱”的解释。
“苦刑柱”
希腊语斯陶罗斯(σταυρός);拉丁语克鲁克斯(crux)
《新世界译本》在马太福音27:40叙述耶稣在髑髅地被处死的一段话,用了“苦刑柱”
一词。没有证据证明,这节经文的希腊语斯陶罗斯指十字架。十字架其实是异教徒在基
督降生以前用了许多世纪的宗教符号。
在古典希腊语中,斯陶罗斯一词不过是指一条直立的柱子、 尖桩,或用做根基
的桩子。动词斯陶罗奥的意思是用尖桩围住,筑起一排围桩或一道围栏。执笔者在圣灵
启示下撰写《希腊语经卷》的时候,用的是希腊共同语。他们用斯陶罗斯一词来表达的
意思,跟这个词在古典希腊语里的意思一样,也就是指一条独木柱子、尖桩,没有任何
横木以任何角度交叉相连。相反的论调根本没有证据支持。彼得和保罗两位使徒也用西
隆一词来指耶稣被钉的刑具。这一点正好表明,处死耶稣的刑具是一根直立的柱子,没
有横木交叉相连,因为西隆作为刑具的时候就是这个意... 阅读全帖
f********t
发帖数: 4574
24
来自主题: _Climbing版 - smear的技术要点是什么?
头一次去攀岩,感觉smear很难掌握。请谈谈smear的技术要点?训练时要注意什么?
另外感觉自己的上肢力量和手指还是太差。第一个5.6路线的crux靠蛮力引体通过。第
二个路线的crux,挣扎半天,想smear上去,结果有心无力,最后小臂pump,手指抽筋
,WS的退下来。现在还感觉小臂很酸痛,如何训练延迟pump?
看着同事轻盈的“走”上去,羡慕死了
f********t
发帖数: 4574
25
来自主题: _Climbing版 - smear的技术要点是什么?
不会smear只能靠引体过crux,接着就是我今天的下场。
我感觉smear的时候不好保持平衡,特别是折腾半天爬到crux,手臂开始明显发酸。手上无力,有些不敢做smear
p*********w
发帖数: 23432
26
混球时报精神分裂了---独家新闻:艾未未打破沉默zz
Exclusive: Ai Weiwei breaks his silence
http://www.globaltimes.cn/NEWS/tabid/99/articleType/ArticleView
Ai Weiwei relaxes in his studio in Caochangdi Art District with his cat
after his release. Photo: Courtesy of Ai Weiwei
Ai Weiwei's first interview since being released from detention started with
a tour of the renovations he's having done to his home and studio in the
Caochangdi Art District in northeast Beijing.
"I'm having my studio and kitchen painted, and I've b... 阅读全帖
s********n
发帖数: 26222
27
【 以下文字转载自 Military 讨论区 】
发信人: smokinggun (硝烟), 信区: Military
标 题: Berstein8月21日给方舟子的公开信
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Thu Aug 25 12:01:26 2011, 美东)
21 August 2011
Dear Dr. Fang,
What a joke! You threaten to no longer participate in this dialogue if I
insist on making your emails to me, and mine in return, public? In the
first place, what is the point of public letters, such as those that I have
written, if they are not public? In the second place, since you have not
participated in this discussion at ... 阅读全帖
b**********a
发帖数: 930
28
方舟子再度被曝抄袭 网友称其剽窃美国教授遭到怒斥(图)
近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟子著作《大象为什么不长毛》
涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆
料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
方舟子(资料图)
近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟子著作《大象为什么不长毛》
涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆
料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
网友“打假巡抚”6日在微博中爆料,在方舟子发表的文章中曾经多次抄袭国内外
专家学者的论文,其中:2010年3月24日在《中国青年报》发表的《转基因玉米更有益
健康》抄袭自Bruce Chassy and Drew Kershen 2004年10月27日在美国西部农场通讯
Western Farm Press 上发表的文章《Bt corn reduces serious birth defects》;
2006年10月11日在《中国青年报》发表的《啄木鸟为什么不头疼?》大段抄袭美国加州
大学Ivan R Schwa... 阅读全帖
c***s
发帖数: 70028
29
近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟子著作《大象为什么不长毛》涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论文,而网友“打假巡抚”6日在微薄中更爆料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
方舟子(资料图)
近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟子著作《大象为什么不长毛》涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
网友“打假巡抚”6日在微博中爆料,在方舟子发表的文章中曾经多次抄袭国内外专家学者的论文,其中:2010年3月24日在《中国青年报》发表的《转基因玉米更有益健康》抄袭自Bruce Chassy and Drew Kershen 2004年10月27日在美国西部农场通讯Western Farm Press 上发表的文章《Bt corn reduces serious birth defects》;2006年10月11日在《中国青年报》发表的《啄木鸟为什么不头疼?》大段抄袭美国加州大学Ivan R Schwab教授于2002年发表在英国眼科学杂志 Br J Ophtha... 阅读全帖
c******2
发帖数: 4019
30
来自主题: Military版 - 沙特石油挖完了——WIKILEAKS
The latest startling revelation to come via documents leaked to Julian
Assange's muckraking website and published by The Guardian is should give
pause to every suburban SUV-driver: U.S. officials think Saudi Arabia is
overpromising on its capacity to supply oil to a fuel-thirsty world. That
sets up a scenario, the documents show, whereby the Saudis could
dramatically underdeliver on output by as soon as next year, sending fuel
prices soaring.
The cables detail a meeting between a U.S. diplomat a... 阅读全帖
s********n
发帖数: 26222
31
来自主题: Military版 - Berstein8月21日给方舟子的公开信
21 August 2011
Dear Dr. Fang,
What a joke! You threaten to no longer participate in this dialogue if I
insist on making your emails to me, and mine in return, public? In the
first place, what is the point of public letters, such as those that I have
written, if they are not public? In the second place, since you have not
participated in this discussion at all for quite some time, what difference
does it make? Third, I thought your goal was to help China identify and
reveal frauds whereve... 阅读全帖
f**k
发帖数: 348
32
2012-02-06 19:57:28 来源: 网易娱乐 有3452人参与 手机看新闻 转发到微博(18)
近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟子著作《大象为什么不长毛》涉嫌
剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆料称
方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
方舟子(资料图)
网易娱乐2月6日报道(文/小易) 近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟
子著作《大象为什么不长毛》涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论
文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
网友“打假巡抚”6日在微博中爆料,在方舟子发表的文章中曾经多次抄袭国内外专家
学者的论文,其中:2010年3月24日在《中国青年报》发表的《转基因玉米更有益健康
》抄袭自Bruce Chassy and Drew Kershen 2004年10月27日在美国西部农场通讯
Western Farm Press 上发表的文章《Bt corn reduces serious birth defects》;
2006年10月11日在《中... 阅读全帖
s****n
发帖数: 8912
33
网易娱乐2月6日报道(文/小易) 近日,在深圳大学传播系副主任孙海峰微博爆料方舟
子著作《大象为什么不长毛》涉嫌剽窃图表后,又被曝抄袭美国Root Bernstein教授论
文,而网友“打假巡抚”更爆料称方舟子曾多次抄袭国内外专家文章。
网友“打假巡抚”6日在微博中爆料,在方舟子发表的文章中曾经多次抄袭国内外专家
学者的论文,其中:2010年3月24日在《中国青年报》发表的《转基因玉米更有益健康
》抄袭自Bruce Chassy and Drew Kershen 2004年10月27日在美国西部农场通讯
Western Farm Press 上发表的文章《Bt corn reduces serious birth defects》;
2006年10月11日在《中国青年报》发表的《啄木鸟为什么不头疼?》大段抄袭美国加州
大学Ivan R Schwab教授于2002年发表在英国眼科学杂志 Br J Ophthalmol 2002;86:
843 的一篇文章《Cure for a headache》;2006年12月11日在《经济观察报》发表的
《现代药物是怎么开发出来的》一文抄袭作者“颍河... 阅读全帖
k********k
发帖数: 5617
34
来自主题: Military版 - 英语是否将征服法国?
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-22607506
22 May 2013 Last updated at 05:30 ET
Franglais row:
Is the English language conquering France?
By Agnes Poirier French journalist
The French parliament is debating a new road map for French universities,
which includes the proposal of allowing courses to be taught in English. For
some, this amounts to a betrayal of the national language and, more
specifically, of a particular way at looking at the world - for others it's
just accepting the inevitable.
... 阅读全帖
x****u
发帖数: 12955
35

You are approaching this issue in the completely wrong direction.
Your main focus shouldn't be on race or ethnicity, certainly not Chinese
heritage. First task is to define the meaning of the word "Fair".
That is the crux of the issue. Without reaching a common ground on that
word, you won't get anywhere with your children.
z**********e
发帖数: 22064
36
来自主题: Military版 - 习近平的文艺——慕容雪村
习近平的文艺 - 纽约时报中文网 国际纵览
The Art of Xi Jinping
By MURONG XUECUN November 24, 2014
习近平的文艺
慕容雪村 2014年11月24日
HONG KONG — Last month, President Xi Jinping of China addressed a forum of
prominent artists and writers in Beijing to enlighten us with his views on
the arts. In a
talk liberally seasoned with cultural allusions, Mr. Xi made a show of his
literary
knowledge and explained how he sees the role of art in today’s China.
香港——上个月,北京召开了一次文艺座谈会,参会的有许多著名作家和艺术家,习近
平在
会上做了一次讲话,说了一些名言警句,背诵了自己读过的书目,并且表达了他对... 阅读全帖
r********1
发帖数: 7345
37
永遠站在反抗者一方
港大學生會就二月八日旺角之役聲明
時值新正頭,小販路邊擺賣,銷售魚蛋雞髀,市民樂也融融,本無大礙。然而,食環署
連日巡查,趕盡小販自力更新,殺絕黎民度歲雅興。警方又配備盾牌、伸縮棍、胡椒噴
霧、紅黃旗幡等到場,刻意挑起民憤。連番衝突過後,警員 PC5619 不顧流彈誤中途人
之險,於群眾中鳴槍兩發,終引燃熊熊抗爭烈火,蔓延旺角街頭。
若諸君設身處地,耳聽槍響劃破長空,眼見槍管直指頭顱,豈不膽裂心顫?數百市民見
狀,克服怵惕恐懼,群起反抗還擊,實為大義之舉。如果 PC5619 因恐懼而開槍,敢問
市民慘遭黑警棍揮腳踢,又當如何?且未論被捕之士,久困漆黑囚車,飽受亂拳無數,
抵達警局又遭一番折磨。倘若泯滅良知,反謂其自找苦吃,豈非有欠惻隱同理之心?你
我人身肉造,被癢會笑,被打會痛,而人民被壓迫,理所當然會反抗。
冰封三尺,絕非一日之寒:磚頭火舌僅其物象表徵,專制政權壓迫實為原兇。過往港府
尚有些須節制,會因和平示威而讓步。近數年來,港共政權愈加無恥,面對逾百萬人爭
取真普選的民意,依然不聞不理。港人忍無可忍,遂於雨傘革命奮起抗爭,設障開傘,
持盾擋棍。今日旺角之役與雨... 阅读全帖
b********n
发帖数: 38600
38
来自主题: Military版 - 美国:一个僵尸国家
"So far there is no sign that the Neoconservatives are willing to give up
their hegemonic agenda for the sake of life on earth."
That's the crux of the problem, along with the recognition that
neoconservatives aren't conservative and the neocon label has little
correlation to party affiliation. Hillary is one of the biggest neocons out
there.
These people are madmen in pursuit of power at all costs and would consider
a world government presiding over an earth turned to cinder with a
population o... 阅读全帖
c*********d
发帖数: 9770
39
来自主题: Military版 - 习近平的文艺
The Art of Xi Jinping
By MURONG XUECUN November 24, 2014
习近平的文艺
慕容雪村 2014年11月24日
HONG KONG — Last month, President Xi Jinping of China addressed
a forum of
prominent artists and writers in Beijing to enlighten us with his
views on the arts. In a
talk liberally seasoned with cultural allusions, Mr. Xi made a
show of his literary
knowledge and explained how he sees the role of art in today’s
China.
香港——上个月,北京召开了一次文艺座谈会,参会的有许多著名作家和艺术... 阅读全帖
b********n
发帖数: 38600
40
The issue at the crux of the DOJ’s suit is that the composition of Asians
in elite schools’ student bodies has remained, more or less, constant for
the 30 years even as the number of Asian-American applicants has increased,
which suggests that these schools are adhering to an illegal quota system.
As WSJ points out, Asian-American groups have been raising questions about
the unfairness of university admissions policies since 1989. But last year’
s 4-3 Supreme Court ruling in favor of the Univers... 阅读全帖
b********n
发帖数: 38600
41
Stupid decision by neocunt Bolton.
This is now the crux of US foreign policy: gangster neocunt style tactics of
murder, seizure of foreign citizens and an Israhelli first policy of
warmongering.
China has many options to retaliate that will harm Americans just as the
trade war already has.
China has also slowly been dumping US debt. It still has the nuke option .
Bolton should have been immediately fired for doing this behind Trump's back
but Trump is just a mannequin and Twitter distraction tha... 阅读全帖
b********n
发帖数: 38600
42
Iran would lose a conventional confrontation/war with the US. No doubt. But
I doubt they would wage a symmetrical conventional war with the US.
Iran could do many things that could severely hurt the US and world economy
without leaving clear fingerprints showing they were responsible.
They could use suicide terrorists world wide to attack commercial aviation
or carry out assassinations of political leaders. They have had a long time
to reverse engineer the computer code we installed on their cen... 阅读全帖

发帖数: 1
43
我给你们学学 她的英语
Crux of the matter
Cripple on
这都是有相当词汇量的人才会这么用
这人讲话挺有水平的 一看就是女强人

发帖数: 1
44
大家平常会用吗?
l
v****g
发帖数: 11080
45
行啦,你英文再好,也别去跟香港人比英文。尼玛人家基本是母语,尤其受过好教育的
公务员。
跟这里的索男强点就该心满意足了吧

发帖数: 1
46
不过林政用的the political room 换成the political space 是不是更地道一些呢?
s**w
发帖数: 499
47
https://www.forexlive.com/news/!/the-basketball-wars-have-begun-20191008
Begun, the basketball war has
Who could have imagined that a tweet from a basketball executive would be
the flashpoint in a decoupling of the US and China.
Here is the crux of the issue: China prioritizes social cohesion above free
speech. The US system prioritizes profits.
That creates an impossible axis. When Houston Rockets GM Daryl Morey tweeted
an image about standing with Hong Kong it exposed the fault line.
This is t... 阅读全帖
d***a
发帖数: 13752
48
孙杨吃的是Trimetazidine,是用于心绞痛发作的预防性治疗的药物。
那是一种赛内禁药,赛外可用。在比赛之外,运动员可以吃,只是不能
自已任意在比赛内使用。另外WADA有规定,如果是医疗必须,可以向
药检机构事先报备,被批准后可在赛内使用。
孙杨和他医生的错误,并不是吃了这个药,而是没有事先报备,不符
合程序。但这也和WADA有关,WADA在2014年1月把这个药加入禁药
清单,而孙杨是2014年5月的一个国内比赛中使用。WADA最近禁药
清单的变化很大,确实造成了混乱的情况。
另外,孙扬在国内比赛打遍天下无敌手。在赛内吃这个药,对于他的
比赛结果,有什么帮助呢?在比赛之外吃这个药,是规则允许的。
这是为什么说Mack Horton是个asshole。他要么是没做homework,
要么是有意这么做,为了赢,不择手段。
http://www.theaustralian.com.au/sport/rio-olympics/rio-olympics-why-mack-hortons-cheat-call-is-not-fair-on-chinese-rival/news-story/... 阅读全帖
k*******3
发帖数: 918
49
来自主题: Talk版 - New rumors once again came out
In the era of network news said: " the big era is independent of the Chinese
media, based in the community, look the world. Committed to the report
reader cares main topic, loyal and responsible, with a critical eye on
current affairs, pay attention to human rights and religious freedom. Epoch
times does not shy away from controversial social issues, adhere faithfully
report the truth ". The truth?
The big era has been to attack smearing China as the main target, there are
many rumors spread rum... 阅读全帖
l****z
发帖数: 29846
50
来自主题: USANews版 - Ignorance Is No Excuse
Posted by Jay Tea
Published: January 20, 2011 - 7:00 AM
President Obama, we are told, is exceptionally intelligent. Harvard Law
School (salutatorian of his class), president of Harvard Law Review, and
about a dozen years teaching Constitutional law. If there's one subject he
should be intimately familiar with, it's the United States Constitution.
Which is why he, of any other president we have ever had, has no excuse for
trying to pull crap like this.
A quick recap: the crux of this whole mess i... 阅读全帖
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