s******n
发帖数: 518 | 1 去之前在版上请教过向导公司的情况，现在回来汇报一下。
登山是一项需要很多经验的活动，没有时间就只能花钱请人带路了。Mt Rainier NP官
网上有3家大的向导公司，RMI，IMG,Alpine Ascents International.后来在山上听人
说也有小公司，说了个名字没记住。好像大公司的队是4向导8客户。小公司是2向导4客
户。有人直接找向导最后也是跟在大公司的队里。
入门路线是disappointment cleaver route。3月份我开始看的时候就已经全部爆满。
中级路线 kautz glacier route还有几个空位，但是没有Crevasse rescue training
AAI不带玩儿，最后跟了IMG。所有申请填好，交钱晚了2天日期就被延后了。总之要跟
队的一定得尽早联系。
大概是中级班的缘故，队里人员比较整齐没有掉链子的。每人背40磅左右大包，山上露
营3夜。队里两个女的，其中一个自己也就100磅重居然也背得动大包。幸运地在7月初
赶上4天好天气，连风都没多少。7月初还都是雪不是冰，路线不算太难。向导行进速度
也掌握的很好，走起来不算太累。同法国li... 阅读全帖 |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 2 Nice! Congratulations.
I will try Kautz again in a few weeks. |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 3 No. If successful, this coming climb of Kautz will be my last climb of
Rainier. I can't keep climbing harder and harder routes, I will be killed
before long climbing this way. Repeating a route does not appeal to me. |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 nice
was planning kautz for 3 years, all cancelled out by weather |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 5 明年过来爬吧，Kautz也在我的list上，不过一直没太正经计划 |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 6 Three of us went to Rainier Friday after work. We rested in the Paradise
picnic area for a couple of hours before heading up right after midnight,
intending to climb Kautz Glacier as a day climb (in the strict sense -
starting and finishing on the same calender day).
We made good time initially but after 10k, we were getting slower and slower
as drowsiness and effect of altitude started to get us. We didn't get to
12k, top of the technical section until after 11am.
Beyond 12k, things got interes... 阅读全帖 |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 7 老大V5。
哪八条线啊？我猜猜：
DC
Emmons
Fuhrer Finger
Kautz Glacier
Liberty Ridge
Sunset Ridge
Tahoma Glacier
Success Cleaver
Is that correct？
slower |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 8 This climb involves no glacier traveling on ascent, so we didn't rope up,
except for a very short section where we placed pickets for running belay.
Self/team arrest is nearly impossible so unless we use running belay, roping
up makes no sense.
During the climb we unanimously decided that we should climb an easier route
next year. We saw how straightforward Kautz Glacier was when our route
merged with Kautz Cleavor. So our next attempt will be Kautz Glacier. |
|
g********d
发帖数: 4174 | 9 Posted on Advocate.com June 07, 2011 05:15:00 PM ET
Wyoming: Judge OK's Lesbian Divorce
By Advocate.com Editors
Wyoming supreme court A lesbian couple who married in Canada can legally
file for divorce in their home state of Wyoming, the state Supreme Court
ruled unanimously Monday.
Paula Christiansen and Victoria Lee Christiansen wed in Canada in 2008. In
2010 they filed for divorce, but Wyoming District Court judge Keith Kautz
said the court did not have the jurisdiction to dissolve their marr... 阅读全帖 |
|
s*******n
发帖数: 12995 | 10 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: sturgeon (sturgeon), 信区: Travel
标 题: 《征文》Rainier 登山与徒步 （1）
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Jul 24 16:01:19 2012, 美东)
今年西雅图之旅主要目的是LD要爬Mt Rainier. Rainier是雪山需要用到alpine
climbing技术。我们并没有太多登山经验，只有雇向导带跟队走。8月天气最好是登山
的旺季，但太暖和山上的雪可能都变成冰了不一定好走。原计划赶在美国国庆期间少用
假期。3月开始找向导公司，Mt Rainier NP官网上有3家大的向导公司RMI，IMG,Alpine
Ascents International。后来在山上听人说也有小公司，说了个名字没记住。好像大
公司的队是4向导8客户。小公司是2向导4客户。有人直接找向导最后也是跟在大公司的
队里。入门路线是Muir disappointment cleaver route。惊讶的发现已经全部爆满。
中级路线 kautz glacier route还有几个空位，但是没有Cr... 阅读全帖 |
|
c**y
发帖数: 377 | 11 FROM SEATTLE：
I-5 THEN FOLLOW WA706
1、NISQUALLY TO PARADISE
从NISQUALLY ENTRA 三买的地方，看FLOOD DEBRIS AND DEAD TREES ON KAUTZ CREEK
(FROM 1947 KAUTZ GLACIER 融化)，把车趴在LONGMIRE MUSEUM (6麦FROM
ENTRA)，走1/2麦的EASY “TRAIL OF THE SHADOWS”。 ALSO CHECK OUT “WILDERNESS
INFORMATION CENTER”
继续东行，在6．5麦处，拐到右边叉路去RICKSECKER
POINT，重新回到主干道上，去NARADA FALLS，可以走到PARADISE RIVER桥下的VIEW
AREA。
然后再有近三卖就到PARADISE了，把车趴在HENRY JACKSON MEMORIAL VISIT CENTER OR
PARADISE INN (一晚不知道多少银子？)门口。去走1．2麦的NISQUALLY VISTA TRAIL(不
可错过！)。NL，你想走那个S |
|
j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 12 Please post a TR here when you get back.
I personally found the chute along the Kautz Glacier is very very easy.
Rather, the objective danger such as rock fall and crevass are the crux of
the climb. Nisqually glacier maybe full of crevasses late in the season.
The rockfall also gets more frequent. I had a failed attempt of Kautz Route
in 2005 as I chickened out in front of the maze of crevasses.
. |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 13 Attempted Kautz Glacier the past weekend. Too bad it was a moon-less night,
got lost right after rappelling down to Kautz chute in total darkness. Went
up and down the wrong chute and ended up staying at camp Hazard waiting for
the day light. At 5:45, finally could see what's around us, got to the base
of correct chute a bit over 6:00. Very crappy ice and had to swing tools
multiple times to get a reasonable plant. Cleared the technical section and
reached 12k at 8:00. It was too late. We had to... 阅读全帖 |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 14 When I climbed them, only Kautz glacier and LibRidge were technical, Sunset
ridge and Tahoma glacier is semi-technical. Others were not.
Note that technical climb does not mean it's harder/riskier than non-
technical climb. Kautz is definitely easier and safer than Success cleaver,
which was the scariest of all. |
|
s******n
发帖数: 518 | 15 今年西雅图之旅主要目的是LD要爬Mt Rainier. Rainier是雪山需要用到alpine
climbing技术。我们并没有太多登山经验，只有雇向导带跟队走。8月天气最好是登山
的旺季，但太暖和山上的雪可能都变成冰了不一定好走。原计划赶在美国国庆期间少用
假期。3月开始找向导公司，Mt Rainier NP官网上有3家大的向导公司RMI，IMG,Alpine
Ascents International。后来在山上听人说也有小公司，说了个名字没记住。好像大
公司的队是4向导8客户。小公司是2向导4客户。有人直接找向导最后也是跟在大公司的
队里。入门路线是Muir disappointment cleaver route。惊讶的发现已经全部爆满。
中级路线 kautz glacier route还有几个空位，但是没有Crevasse rescue training
AAI不带玩儿，最后LD跟了IMG,我只好当逃兵。所有申请填好，交钱晚了2天日期就被延
后到7月初了。总之要跟队的一定得尽早联系。美国人民爬山的热情很高涨。
http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyour... 阅读全帖 |
|
X***9
发帖数: 7385 | 16 众所周知，本田不但在安全，环保，技术等方面拥有傲人成绩，本田车的性能在车界也
是首屈一指。
The SCCA National Championship Runoffs is the end-of-year championship race
meeting for Sports Car Club of America Club Racing competitors.
美国跑车俱乐部赛事
本田和讴歌的赛车手赢取了八跑车俱乐部的美国全国冠军头衔，其中包括一个讲台扫在
竞争激烈的超级房车赛灯类和第四连续式F冠军，在2015年SCCA全美锦标赛径流，争夺
本周末在代托纳国际赛道
共有64本田和讴歌赛车手，最大径流场以来的开始制造商本田赛车路线基层赛车计划，
2009年，前往著名的代托纳电路在佛罗里达州9月21日至27号，今年的第52届全国锦标
赛，在参加的28类12。
除了创纪录的投票率，这也是一个周末创纪录的业绩本田和讴歌的驱动程序，有八个国
家的冠军 - 有史以来的最高总为本田车队/ HPD节目 - 登上领奖台在其他三场比赛，
让本田车队的胜利和顶级三个结果中的12类11兵家必争之地在今... 阅读全帖 |
|
|
S*L
发帖数: 1746 | 18 老大，Kautz Glacier, Fuhrer Finger这些路线俺这样的菜人是想都不敢想啊。上DC这
样的观光路线俺就准备了两年。。。 |
|
c**y
发帖数: 377 | 19 第二天一早，吃完早饭，和和，欧姆都把午饭免了，当然早饭要吃饱。欧姆就又进NP啦，
这天欧姆就慢慢先看了到PARADISE之前的景点。经过KAUTZ CREEK的时候，发现CAMP
GROUND就在旁边，景色真好，天气也好，很后悔没有CAMPING，不过想想欧姆这次TRIP都
准备太匆忙，CAMPING可能也没有那个体力。
为了节约时间，欧姆没有进到LONGMIRE MUSEUM那里，直接去了NARADA
FALLS，那个TRAIL其实很短，但还覆盖着雪，所以比平时多花了不少时间。不过走到瀑布
下感受了激起的水花，看到那一道彩虹，觉得还是没有白走啊。然后在到PARADISE之前有
个ONE WAY的SCENIC ROAD，很多地方都是可以停下来坐它一整天也不会厌倦。兔子真想就
这么坐一整天，不用去想那要命的论文。
终于，欧姆拐进了去PARADISE的路，到了那里发现TRAIL都封着，只能在VISIT CENTER环
顾一下，有点失望。另一边出来的路还关着，只好沿路返回，已是中午，然后欧姆就依依
不舍的往MT ST HELEN赶了。 |
|
j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 20 在portland有公干，顺便去了Hood. 之前（7／27／10）和搭档爬了Rainier, Kautz
glacier上，DC下。 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 赞！Kautz has been on my radar but haven't got to doing it. maybe next
season |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 I did not plan a lot this season based on my schedule. I actually climbed
most of peaks I planed. However, both Hood sunshine and Rainier Kautz got
cancelled
mountain: |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 23 户外版id都来说说自己的new year's resolution吧，等到一年过后再来回顾一下，看看
自己完成了多少。
我先带个头：
1. 保持不受伤， 这个说起来容易做起来难，过去几年每年大大小小都要受点伤，看看
下一年能不能走出这个怪圈
2. 爬一条Mt Hood没有爬过的路线
3. 完成下面几条路线中的一条： Mt. Rainier Kautz glacier, Mt. Rainier fuhrer
finger, Mt. Adams Adams glacier
4. 把体重减轻20磅 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 24 I heard Kautz is a fun and moderate route. It's on my list since last year
but it looks like my calender is filled for this season :(
roping
route |
|
j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 25 You rock girl! 今年雪厚不厚？
去年七月底我和Dorothy2个人从Kautz Glacier上，从DC 下的，晚上10点别人起来，
我们正好在climber's hut睡了一晚，第二天下到Paradise以后我们去海吃了一通然后
又穿过Nisqually Glacier上到 Wilson Glacier, 在那里睡了一晚，然后第二天早上下
撤。晚上Dorothy给我讲她的睡袋的悲惨故事，把我笑翻了。很好玩。 |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 26 I will climb Rainier again in a couple of weeks. I will take Kautz Glacier.
It should have decent alpine ice this late in the season. |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 27 The condition on Kautz may vary from year to year. It can be as easy as a
high angle snow climb. Two years ago, it had a 60-65 degree ice pitch in
July...
Route |
|
s******n
发帖数: 518 | 28 谢谢，遇到这么好的天气让我想起打牌时新手总是抓一首特好的牌，呵呵
看到你走sunset ridge,pf!你有爬山伙伴？ |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 29 Yes, I have two climbing partners whom I climbed with for the past 7-8 years
. I did all my Rainier climbs of non-standard routes with them. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 30 are you trying to sweep all routes on Rainier? there are at least about 25
of them, I guess?
years |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 31 Well, the rest are not necessarily harder, given the right conditions. I
know, the right conditions are the keyword here :) |
|
S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 32 真不错，能有这么好的伙伴和这么多的山
years |
|
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 34 count me in too. i'm pretty much finished for this season. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 35 Well, you can still hike. I bet you'll be in a much better hiking shape than
all of us by the end of the summer. |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 36 isn't the season just starting? what happened? |
|
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 38 Near the top of the technical section. |
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 the ice pitch is in great shape this year |
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 42 Yes, the ice was much better this time than last year. We actually picked a
line that was a bit more challenging than the line of least resistance.
Another picture, showing my partner appearing to be dozed off when belaying
me. |
|
a***n
发帖数: 584 | 43 dozed off when belaying? wow! did you wake him up afterward? hehe~~
a
belaying |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 44 lol, this is the reason why I love auto-braking devices.
a
belaying |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 45 lol
拍照片的没提醒一下？
a
belaying |
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 48 I consider Kautz technical, of course Liberty Ridge too. Furher Finger is
definitely not technical, nor is DC or Emmons.
no
technical, |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 49 LR climbing window is short. And they are lucky to have 6 days of good
weather.
Well, it is still far from my ability anyway, I need to do Kautz first. |
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 50 Not bad. I feel even Kautz is too hard for me, my goal is Baker North Ridge.
Planned to do it this year after last year's bail but the road was washed.
Well, I'm out of shape this year anyway. |
|
