由买买提看人间百态

topics

全部话题 - 话题: leades
首页 上页 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 下页 末页 (共10页)
m****s
发帖数: 18160
1
【 以下文字转载自 Pharmaceutical 讨论区 】
发信人: addModules (Apache), 信区: Pharmaceutical
标 题: 诚聘 Computational Chemist for a leading Chinese Pharmaceutical Company (上海)
关键字: 招聘 上海
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Mon Jul 8 02:42:08 2013, 美东)
We have an open position in the Computational Chemistry group in the R & D
center at Shanghai Hengrui Pharmaceutical Inc. This person will actively
provide computational support for various drug discovery projects at
different stages independently or under limited supervision. In addit... 阅读全帖
m****s
发帖数: 18160
2
【 以下文字转载自 EE 讨论区 】
发信人: crownlessfzd (crownless), 信区: EE
标 题: Job opening: Lead Analog/Mixed Signal IC Design Engineer
关键字: Job IC Design Engineer
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Feb 4 16:59:18 2014, 美东)
Job opening: Lead Analog/Mixed Signal IC Design Engineer
Job description
The IC Design team is searching for a hands-on, team oriented, mixed-signal
IC design engineer. In this role, you will be responsible for the definition
, architecture, design, and release to production of mixed-signal integrated
ci... 阅读全帖

发帖数: 1
3
A Cambridge MA based company in need of talented Software Quality Assurance
/Automation Engineer leader. It is a fantastic opportunity to work in one of
the most promising companies with the latest technology. Work as a lead SQA
engineer leading project and mentoring a group of engineers with similar
background as follow. Great opportunity with potential room to become a SQA
manager. Ideal candidate must be highly technical in SQA/Automation.
Followings are a brief introduction of the position.
... 阅读全帖
j*****t
发帖数: 5475
4
don't do lead test. if you do and find lead, you will be responsible to
de-lead it. if you don't do, you can keep it as "unknown".

fix
T*********k
发帖数: 1767
5
我们的房子是1958,现在有小孩了,开始听说这个lead问题
我拿lead-check把房间都测了一遍,倒是没有,但是也有可能是false-positive
而且可能最底层的是含铅漆,掉个漆片, 铅粉就暴露了
都想换房子了!!
是不是我担心太多了?? Lead问题真的有那么可怕吗???
y*****7
发帖数: 2869
6
来自主题: Living版 - 请问买房子的LEAD TEST
看中一个1972年的房子,全砖头的,有点老,但是比较喜欢它的FLOOR PLAN。 知道
1978年前的房子都有LEAD PAINT的可能性。
看到HOMEDEPOT/AMAZON有那种LEAD TESTING的KIT,到时候做INSPECTION的时候想自己
跑过去测试下,反正也不贵。
不知道大家的看法是什么,我们这里新房子挺多,但我比较喜欢这个房子,不介意他旧
点,但马上要孩子了,不知道这个问题到底有多严重,我个人感觉很多APARTMENT也是
很老的房子,很多人也住,不知道这个LEAD的影响到底有多严重。
当然以后肯定管好BABY,多喂奶,不让他饿得啃墙皮。。。谢谢!
R******g
发帖数: 999
7
我们单位做过lead paint的wipe sample。简单的说就是到房子里用事先准备好的wipe
对墙面进行擦拭,然后对wipe进行提取,测里面的铅含量。样品结果是对照HUD(
Housing and Urban Development)的标准。
你可以参考HUD对Lead paint的处理建议。http://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/HUD?src=/program_offices/healthy_homes/healthyhomes/lead
包子收到,谢谢。
p***a
发帖数: 105
8
来自主题: Living版 - 关于lead paint form
请教下要是房子标明是lead paint form (yes),是不是里外墙都是lead paint的了?
那么要
是找人把墙上的油漆挂掉,另外刷一遍,还可能有lead残留吗?
D*********Y
发帖数: 3382
9
来自主题: Living版 - lead paint到底危害多大?
看中的房子70年代的,但是agent说有lead paint的concern。
要是原来的paint已经被覆盖,还有这个危害么?
这个lead inspection到底做什么呢?
我娃4岁了,还是需要考虑这个lead的问题吗
D*********Y
发帖数: 3382
10
来自主题: Living版 - lead paint到底危害多大?
看中的房子70年代的,但是agent说有lead paint的concern。
要是原来的paint已经被覆盖,还有这个危害么?
这个lead inspection到底做什么呢?
我娃4岁了,还是需要考虑这个lead的问题吗
c********3
发帖数: 84
11
来自主题: NextGeneration版 - <提醒!>lead-tainted baby food products
还好我们现在还在吃1阶段的,没在list里。但是Gerber呀,Earth best什么的都有产
品在名单里,看着还是挺吓人的。各位妈妈参考一下吧。说最好还是自己做baby food,
可是麻烦啊。
http://www.our365.com/Wisdom/Moms/Consumer%20Alerts/Lead%20in%20fruit.aspx
The Environmental Law Foundation recently tested fruit products marketed to
kids, including juice boxes, canned fruit and baby foods. They found that 85
% of the products tested contain lead. Check this list of 125 lead-tainted
products:
1 365 Everyday Value Organic 100% Juice Concord Grapes
2 Beech Nut 100% Apple Juice
3 B
r*****l
发帖数: 354
12
【 以下文字转载自 Parenting 讨论区 】
发信人: ragdoll (恭喜发财,包子拿来), 信区: Parenting
标 题: 圣诞节GC,Lead Teacher , Teaching Assistants, Director, 和
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Fri Dec 7 22:54:38 2012, 美东)
请问,关于圣诞节送GC的事。
宝宝上3天托儿所。现在2岁8个月。在这儿待了8个月了。还比较愉快。虽然早上送的时
候会稍稍哭一下。
班上有Lead Teacher , 1个固定的Teaching Assistant, 然后还有一些天天换的
intern 和 assistant。
是不是只送Lead Teacher , 1个固定的Teaching Assistant就可以了?每人20可以吗?
另外,要给Director送么?
谢谢。
h**********l
发帖数: 410
13
最近找房,准备签了发现lease上给了一个lead-based paint的通知,说房子是1978年
建的,78年建的房子都可能有lead-based paint。仔细问leasing office她也没啥
record之类的。房子我看过,看着还挺好的。会不会有lead based paint,会不会对胎
儿发育有影响?能租78年建的房子吗?
w*********8
发帖数: 3339
14
MM,能换个daycare就换吧,像MM宝宝这样的年龄,最需要的是有个有爱心的老师,比
什么都重要!!
我家宝宝是2岁9个月的时候送的daycare,我和LG也是找了好几家,和每家的老师都有
过交流,最后选定了儿子现在的这家。最最主要的是这个daycare的老师都非常nice。
小孩子在那儿个个都很开心。我家宝宝刚去的时候,每次送他都哭着不让我走。每次
leading teacher都走过来抱着宝宝,搂着,拍着。。。儿子一个星期就适应好了,以
后每次送他去,他都跑过去hug那个leading teacher。后来儿子刚升到preschool后的1
,2个月,下午去接他,他还经常跑到那个leading teacher的班上和她hug and say
goodbye。
d***t
发帖数: 253
15
A well funded startup founded by 4 silicon valley returnees is looking for
someone to lead the firmware/OS driver design as part of the startup core
team. If anybody has interest please send me PM.
Here is the JD from the HM:
Located in Shanghai, we are a startup company devoted to developing high performance IC and systems. We are looking for experienced and talented individuals to join the founding team.
You will be the leading architect for the firmware and OS driver development
. You will b... 阅读全帖
C*******i
发帖数: 2131
16
This story from Wall Street Cheat Sheet
Egypt has been embroiled in political turmoil since protests, inspired by
those that overthrew the regime in Tunisia, started last week.While Egypt,
and its Suez Canal, have been worry one for investors world wide since last
week, the next big question is whether this dissent could spread to other
countries around the region, and world.
It’s a challenge to state led authoritarian capitalism, but it is also a
response to rising food costs and soaring unempl... 阅读全帖
g*********9
发帖数: 172
17
来自主题: Working版 - 我应该CC我的lead吗?
integration组的人先发了email给我们组的lead,请他分析一些错误信息。他可能太忙
,拖了两周没有回信。那个组的头直接发信给我,然后又来我的办公室找我。我就帮他
分析了一下。分析结果我发email给他,同时我cc 了我们lead的。我应该cc我们lead的
吗?
y********o
发帖数: 2565
18
俺工作年限不多,没有多少职场经验。俺性格内向,不出头。在公司里安静本分地写co
de。
俺lead写的code,一个method可以写上千行,经常重复code,modularization和reusab
ility都较差,naming convention更是乱七八糟(pascal, camel, hungarian, undersc
ore, 什么都有) ,exception乱throw。
俺一般都不提这些问题,一是觉得人家是lead,别让人家太难堪,而是觉得提了有如何
?他恁么多年积累下来的code,前端的数据库端的,又不可能去一一 refactor。
可是,俺发现,俺一味保持谦逊保守的作风,导致此lead对俺说话逐渐傲慢,好似俺啥
也不懂。已经无数次,他用affirmative的口吻说俺的code导致了什么什么问题,结果都
被俺从source control里面下到俺的版本和他的版本证实是他的code的问题。
因此想问问你们大佬儿,碰到这种问题,如何有效地处理?就想听听你们的意见和经验
以便提高。
l**********y
发帖数: 127
19
来自主题: Working版 - 请教关于lead的事情
和老板谈了。原来新招的不是个 lead position. 是个senior position.老板不觉得
招个人来是lead我们,是和我们一样的senior position。因为我们刚被一个大公司收
购了,在他们系统里的senior position就是lead 的title.
和老板谈完了心情比较复杂。也就是说原格局不动。这样可能也好吧。在老板底下再做
一两年再说,看看是不是下次有提拔机会。这个工作和老板我都是喜欢的。如果有提拔
的机会,我和另一个人可能都在她考虑的对象里面。这次时机看起来不成熟。
w********n
发帖数: 156
20
来自主题: Immigration版 - can I claim leading role?
最近收到NOID,感觉contribution很难过(not meet),review和authorship还好(meet
but not satisfy)。我可不可以把contribution换成leading role来claim?Officer把
十条都质疑了一遍,还专门提到了一封推荐信里提到我的critical/leading role,但
证据不够。
除了说明organization有reputation(我在的单位获过很多奖),找老板写封信证明自
己是leading role,是否就可以了?还是这也需要heard evidence?
s**********g
发帖数: 551
21
来自主题: Immigration版 - recommend as a lead guest editor
Please read the following and let me know if you would like to make the
commitment. I would be able to recommend.
I have been asked to contact you by Infectious Diseases: Research and
Treatment editor in chief Dr Douglas MacPherson concerning journal
supplements the editor in chief wishes to publish within the next 12 to 18
months. The supplements focus on the topics listed below, and the editor in
chief intends that it should provide an opportunity for relatively junior
researchers, as well as... 阅读全帖
H******n
发帖数: 189
22
来自主题: Immigration版 - Top or leading journal/conference
写推荐信时,有点吹的大,说paper都是发表在leading or top journals。 信都签字
了。 现在在写petition letter,不敢吹了。我发的最好的也就10% 左右,这种能算
top/leading journal吗?
IEEE conference 能算leading conference吗?
谢谢!
x********a
发帖数: 3
23
来自主题: LosAngeles版 - Lead .NET Developer at LA (转载)
【 以下文字转载自 JobMarket 讨论区 】
发信人: xixihahala (xixihaha), 信区: JobMarket
标 题: Lead .NET Developer at LA
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Thu May 10 19:58:53 2012, 美东)
Lead .NET Developer - .NET, C#, ASP.NET, VB.NET, JavaScript, jQuery, DHTML,
HTTP, SVN, SQL Server
We are a cutting-edge up and coming urban fashion e-commerce start-up
located in a fun and fashionable LA neighborhood. Due to an immense increase
increase in our popularity, we are currently in need of a talented and
driven Lead .NET Developer to help our... 阅读全帖
f********n
发帖数: 164
24
家里有5岁小孩,准备要老二。
签了新泽西北部一个60年代末房,卖家不让做Lead paint inspection, 理由是如果我
们walk away, 他们也要disclose inspection results, 影响卖房...
大家买旧房子 做 Lead paint inspection 吗?如果有 lead paint (其实那个1978年
前的房子基本都有), 处理起来麻烦吗?谢谢!
挺喜欢这个房子, 纠结中...
f********n
发帖数: 164
25
家里有5岁小孩,准备要老二。
签了新泽西北部一个60年代末房,卖家不让做Lead paint inspection, 理由是如果我
们walk away, 他们也要disclose inspection results, 影响卖房...
大家买旧房子 做 Lead paint inspection 吗?如果有 lead paint (其实那个1978年
前的房子基本都有), 处理起来麻烦吗?谢谢!
挺喜欢这个房子, 纠结中...
o**********e
发帖数: 18403
26
【 以下文字转载自 JobHunting 讨论区 】
发信人: huh (...), 信区: JobHunting
标 题: 大公司里做tech lead还是跳槽去小点的公司做director?
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Nov 18 06:30:00 2014, 美东)
现在一家Fortuen 500里混leading engineer,活做得算是比较安全吧,虽然一组都是
老印,人事斗争比较多,但是我比较超脱,跟顶头老板关系很好。
眼下情况是这样的:本领域眼下正是红火,我做的是红火领域里比较niche的学科交叉
区域。
自己第一份工作起步薪水较低。所以现在仍然只是below average。 几个月前拿了一份
别的公司给的offer letter要老板match (加25%),老板拍胸脯保证年底match,号称如
果没有的话他从自己的工资里给我。结果年底告诉我说今年部门performance不是太好
,全team都不加薪只给我加,但是也只能加10%,剩下的加不上了。如果还不满意就自
己拿offer letter去找VP谈。不过又挂上一个胡萝卜说过1-2年大概能提pri... 阅读全帖
y***r
发帖数: 1845
27
lead从62起,起码可以到68级(Partner dev lead)。lead是指直接管IC,而senior/
principal是对应级别的。
h****n
发帖数: 298
28
来自主题: Seattle版 - need C# Dev lead and dev immediately
Need 1 C# dev lead and dev immediately.
Need someone who can join immediately.
1. C# Dev lead:
Good developer and sharp in understanding new technologies. A minimum of a
bachelor degree in computer science a must.
Strong communication skills, project management skills, experience with
understanding new technologies and shipping them at Microsoft Standards.
Effective task breakdown skills.
Smart developer who don't have lead experience is also fine, but need
immediate join.
2. C# developer:
Extr... 阅读全帖
T**8
发帖数: 78
29
Try
AAA & D Northwest Environmental Services, Inc.
425-372-1424
3632 49th Avenue Southwest
Auburn, WA 98001
Not bad but no cheap.
(lead paint早就没了). No, I do not think so. Lead paint will not go away by
itself. However, it should have been covered by new lead-free paint.
To remove it, you need to replace the drywall.
k***e
发帖数: 1931
30
呃,国内的Dev Lead 2也很少吧,好像bing那边招人太凶所以61的也上阵当lead,其他
的都需要senior才能当lead了。
l***i
发帖数: 1943
31
来自主题: Texas版 - 老房子de lead的问题 (转载)
【 以下文字转载自 Living 讨论区 】
发信人: liazi (liazi), 信区: Living
标 题: 老房子de lead的问题
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Apr 17 00:15:32 2012, 美东)
买了个65年建的老房子
最近想换窗户,请来home depot的人帮忙做
他们说我的窗户需要lead safe work,需要加钱
加钱倒不是什么大问题,主要他说的lead safe work的问题
这是不是说明我这个老房子过去有使用含铅的材料?
我应该怎么才能delead整个房子呢?
//家里有两个小娃阿。。买房的时候没考虑含铅的问题~.~
大家给提个建议把,有给整个房子做过delead的么?
应该怎么做比较好啊?
谢谢!
p*********w
发帖数: 606
32
来自主题: WashingtonDC版 - 请教maryland rental lead certificate
我在rockville有个condo出租,已经注册了MD license。今天收到邮件说要lead
rental registration。我在MDE的网站已经注册,查了一下我三月交过一次注册费$30
。但是property info里面没有显示form 330。我也没找人做过lead检查。请问这个是
必要的吗?是每次有新房客入住前都要做一次lead检查吗?花费多少?
谢谢
l*****9
发帖数: 9501
33
Jeremy Lin Must Learn from Derrick Rose and Lead by Example By Ben Shapiro(
Featured Columnist) on March 12, 2012
If you read the above headline and think this is going to be a column in
which Jeremy Lin is compared to Derrick Rose, think again.
Derrick Rose is either the league's best player or one of the top five, take
your pick and debate amongst yourselves.
But there is one arena where the two players intersect. That would be
leadership.
The Bulls don't win just because of Rose's outstanding... 阅读全帖
c****u
发帖数: 3277
34
来自主题: Bridge版 - Open lead problem
this is a tough problem. perhaps HA is the most flexible lead.
you can have a look at dummy, then decided whether to switch
CK or D or continue H the next round. However, HA耺ay cost you a
trick from the very beginning. anyway, I feel like that this hand
often requires an aggressie lead. Anyway, I'll try my bridge generator
tonight and see what will the best lead be, keke
l*********r
发帖数: 65
35
来自主题: Bridge版 - a simple question, what do you lead?

spade.
but
Headed with AJ10xxx, J is the standard lead, showing either AJ10x, or KJ10x,
or J109x, and because
of that, it is named "0/1 leads", coz it's either from top of nothing or there
is one higher honor.
Depends on the bidding. Had declarer shown no significant spade length, then
it's automatic to cover.
Let's say in a "normal" situation, since dummy has 2 and you have 3 spades, if
partner leads from
5 card suit, then you lose absolutely nothing by covering, because even if
partner is lea
c****u
发帖数: 3277
36
来自主题: Bridge版 - lead Q
It's actually hard to say. partner still may hold
something like Axxxx xx Ax xxxx, in which case,
you have to lead S to get the ruff immediately to beat 4H.
If your diamond holding is stronger, like:
KJTx, you may want to lead H here. Now your D holding is still
quite weak, so I'd just lead S anyway. club is actually a long shot,
you have to hold both of them hold at least two clubs and partner holds
CK or CA and dummy holds CK. From the bidding, west holds at least 5-4 in M,
east holds at least
i****e
发帖数: 642
37
来自主题: Bridge版 - what do you lead? Rate possible choices
It seems people have different opinion in this one. As arrows said, any lead
can cost a trick. On the other hand, any lead can be right for a hand. So
the purpose is to be correct a particular hand, but to get a better chance
based on the bidding and holding.
Previous posts showed different choices for club suit, but given your 2D bid
and with dummy's hand, pd should be easy to do it right if he gets in later.
Now, let's have your input in a different way: rate the following lead with
a score of... 阅读全帖
p***r
发帖数: 20570
38
来自主题: Bridge版 - what do you lead? Rate possible choices
One advantage of SJ is that you are not going to blow a double dummy trick
if you lead SJ. Also, SJ is unlikely to blow a single dummy trick (because
according to your bidding, declarer is likely to play you for S shortness).
So the worst case is that you miss a tempo. C leads can be very different,
it just has way too many ways to blow a trick and it requires some specific
holdings from opps to make C leads effective. That's why I said even
without simulation, I think it is quite a clear case... 阅读全帖
C*******r
发帖数: 10345
39
来自主题: GunsAndGears版 - Groups Seek Nationwide Ban all LEAD Ammo
EPA denies lead ammo petition
By Nate Monroe
Staff Writer
Published: Friday, August 27, 2010 at 4:47 p.m.
Last Modified: Friday, August 27, 2010 at 4:59 p.m.
THIBODAUX — The Environmental Protection Agency has denied a petition
requesting the federal government institute a nationwide ban on lead used in
hunting ammunition and fishing tackle.
A consortium of environmental groups filed the petition Aug. 3, arguing the
ban would save millions of birds each year that die from lead poisoning
after ac
f**s
发帖数: 2225
40
来自主题: GunsAndGears版 - 有没有人想过用lead-free的子弹打猎?
看这个网站的图片,软尖弹会在动物体内裂成100多片铅碎片。
另外我发现软尖弹打完了,枪膛里面会留下很多铅,不好清理
http://dnr.wi.gov/org/land/wildlife/lead.htm
我以后打算买lead-free的弹头的子弹打猎了,或者自已买lead-free的弹头reload
目前给我的243win,找到这么几种弹头
Barnes Bullets TSX or Tiped TSX
Nosler E-tip
好几个弹药商都用上面两个弹头造了一些打猎子弹
还有remington出的子弹,叫Remington Premier copper solid,不过他家不卖弹头
.277和.308口径弹头的选择更多,所以270win, 3006, 308win, 300winmag口径的枪应该
比较容易弄到这些子弹打猎
k*******n
发帖数: 5546
41
铅弹我有, 但没办法,一些打猎的地方明文规定要用Lead Free Bullet,想买一盒预备
万一。怕将来加州这种Lead Free Bullet买不到或者涨价。
----Barnes TSX / TipTSX
久经考验,all copper bullet.
----Winchester/Nosler E-Tip
http://www.nosler.com/bullets/e-tip-lead-free.aspx
他们一起搞的,BC数据不错,95%铜+5%锌, less copper foul.
----Hornady SuperPerformance GMX
这个一般便宜些。95%铜+5%锌,SuperPerformance 系列的初速一般高100-200fps.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ammunition/rifle-ammun
i**e
发帖数: 6810
42
来自主题: GunsAndGears版 - 请教关于 lead round nose vs FMJ
.22lr,lead的貌似便宜一点,不过lead的也号称match grade。
(round nose大概没影响,貌似.22lr的都是圆头?)
这两个各有什么利弊?除了装lead弹手和弹匣都留不少铅之外?
对枪有没有影响?对子弹reliability有无影响?
q*n
发帖数: 1203
43
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 周末的trad leading class
第一次在yosemite vallye攀岩, 第一次爬jamming crack, 违反了don't learn climb
ing and leading at the same time的原则, 所以搞得很狼狈, 呵呵。 yosemite的路
线难还真是名不虚传,5.6/5.7的带着一堆gear超过我的水平了,后来把有困难的路线试
着一身轻的有top roping了一遍,差别简直是天上地下,这下深刻体会了trad leading
的可怕性。
mock lead了四五条线路,基本上发现放gear的质量还是取决于对爬那个线路的舒适度,
如果有很好的休息点的就可以慢慢fit nuts, 当然如果放cam的话基本都能比较有信心。
还有rest step很重要,尽量站到heel上,否则小腿肚子狂抽很痛苦也很容易panic.
别人给我做了个tape glove, 结果第一次用来hand jamming就被我搞破了,呵呵。手上
脚踝上还蹭破不少油皮,看看周围老手们的手背,都是布满红红的battle scar,顿时感
到自己也算是个climber了。 :)
同行的人大部分都不用帐篷,我也随大流直接
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
44
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [合集] 周末的trad leading class
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
qun (梦里不知身是客) 于 (Mon Oct 20 15:06:58 2008) 提到:
第一次在yosemite vallye攀岩, 第一次爬jamming crack, 违反了don't learn climb
ing and leading at the same time的原则, 所以搞得很狼狈, 呵呵。 yosemite的路
线难还真是名不虚传,5.6/5.7的带着一堆gear超过我的水平了,后来把有困难的路线试
着一身轻的有top roping了一遍,差别简直是天上地下,这下深刻体会了trad leading
的可怕性。
mock lead了四五条线路,基本上发现放gear的质量还是取决于对爬那个线路的舒适度,
如果有很好的休息点的就可以慢慢fit nuts, 当然如果放cam的话基本都能比较有信心。
还有rest step很重要,尽量站到heel上,否则小腿肚子狂抽很痛苦也很容易panic.
别人给我做了个tape glove, 结果第一次用来hand jamming就被我搞破了
z*********n
发帖数: 94654
45
来自主题: Outdoors版 - first lead
肯定不会的,我们lead的路线是我们comfort level -3至少
那个lead的路线rating 5.5
后来我又lead了一个5.6的
一定不是在climb上chalenge的
b***y
发帖数: 824
46
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 还是leading爽啊
赞leading.看来要考个Gym Lead test, 以后也在Gym 多练练leading了。
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
47
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 终于过了lead test了。
In rock gyms, you have to pass lead test to get a lead certificate.
Different gyms may have different regulations, but a lot of gyms use 5.10 (o
r harder) routes for test.
There is no constraint for outdoor leading as far as you know what you are d
oing...
E***y
发帖数: 336
48
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 终于过了lead test了。
上lead课会让你练。
如果你能找到两个人belay你,一个lead belay,一个top rope belay,也能练。
或者别人lead,你follow 练习unclip。。。
其实没多难,就是clip的差别。clip稍微练练就够通过考试的了。
我感觉很多人基本上不用练,上课前能爬5.10a,b,c
上完课直接就考试过了,我是唯一一个fail掉的。
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
49
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 终于过了lead test了。
取决于你将来要往什么方向发展了,如果对爬trad, multi pitch有兴趣,那要学得就
多了,包括gear placement, anchor building这些基本元素,然后就是真正lead tra
d,lead multi-pitch,还有你提到的rock rescue,要是对big wall climb有兴趣,还
要学aid climb
不过你现阶段没必要一口吃个胖子,会了sport lead,除了在gym里玩之外,可以多去爬
爬户外
先跟着有经验的人出去,学一下怎么build top rope anchor,如何clean route就行了
E***y
发帖数: 336
50
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 终于过了lead test了。
昨天第一次用自己的绳子lead,就犯这个错误了.才是第二个clip.
是条5.9的线,快两个月没lead了.虽然是5.9但是clip的位置和姿势很诡异.
clip完第一个就有点紧张,第二个就有点着急.刚clip完,下面partner就大叫了.
back clip了.我还奇怪back clip有啥大惊小怪的.原来是z clip.
下来后,partner告诉我避免的方法是不要clip的太低.接近腰就容易z clip.
尽量在胸口附近,clip.
然后附近有个人跑过来对我说,我刚才lead的时候rope behind foot了,
可能在gym不会后果太严重,但也非常糟糕.
我说我知道了.他说,就是让我知道这个事,没别的意思.
那个脚点真别扭,quickdraw和绳子正好在脚点上,没法踩,附近还不太容易找到别的脚点.
只能rope behind foot.
看来不光书是借的好,绳子也是别人的好...
首页 上页 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 下页 末页 (共10页)