T********d
发帖数: 621 | 1 周六去做instructor,前天晚上给event organizer发信问要带啥，被告知just show up
, we have everything.
备于是rock climb 的field trip,我还是带了harness啥的。
于是我们几个instructors去set up 线。轮我给Bret belay.我说：＂I don't have my
belay device, so I will just munter you."
他愣那看了我个2 full seconds,说：＂munter me, why it sounds so dirty?"
我&^#*$。 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 体能上，最简单的就是背上35-40磅的包hike至少有3000 elevation gain的trail，最
好是用水做负重，下山的时候倒掉。给你个大致的我们的bench mark: 4 miles, 3300
ft, 2小时及格，1:30优秀。不是说你体能达不到就一定不能登，但是你如果能及格就
会有一定的saftey margin。登山不是跑road race，you can't go all out. when
things happen, rescue might not be immediately available, 即使是Rainier，
rescue也经常是days away
技术上，我们一般都很general的教alpine rock & glacier。我们用的教材是freedom
of the hills 8th edition。书的权威性我不做评价，大家见仁见智。我读过的书也不
少。craig connnally的the mountaineering handbook和cosley & houston的alpine
climbing都是不错的书，但是我不是特别倾... 阅读全帖 |
|
L*********d
发帖数: 7037 | 3 http://www.boeing.com/history/chronology/chron01.html
(1916) Nov. 15: William Boeing watches pilot Herb Munter take the Model C,
designed by Boeing's first aeronautical engineer Tsu Wong, above Lake Union
on its first flight. Munter finds the rudder is too small, and it goes back
to the shop for a new rudder. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 I assume you are talking about the belay biner.
I have a bunch of vaperlocks. They are a bit too small for munter hitches.
They don't work too well with reverso 3, which is the belay device I use for
multipitch cragging. A great lightweight biner for belaying is Petzl
Attache 3D. 50g and enough bearing surface for munter and reverso. it's a
little pricy though.
Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小 |
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 5 I used munter for top belay, much smoother than reversal 3. That may helped
the twist part, though.
And you can also have autolock for munter if wanted.
things |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 Actually, munter is the source to cause the kink
I won't mind to use munter for alpine climb, but for regular multipitch clim
b, I try to avoid it
helped |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 rappelling using munter is usually fine, you can always find way to solve
the problem, belaying using munter is another story |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 glacier上belay方法很多，hip belay, boot ax, ice ax carabinger belay, etc.最
不济还有munter hitch，对belay device依赖很小。 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 bowline你不lead不会有机会经常打。刚开始最需要掌握的是munter hitch, clove
hitch, (这两个都要会单手打)，mule knot, butterfly, figure 8, etc |
|
a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 10 最后2个正打反打没区别
munter hitch 和clove hitch书上肯定有
mule knot是锁ATC的 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 freedom 7 里面肯定都有。munter/clove单手打可能不见得有。你google一下吧。我的
观点是，一个结如果有单手的打法，我一定要学会 |
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 search "carabiner brake rappel" and "munter hitch rappel". I almost dropped
my ATC on a climb last Sunday. My hands were too numb after climbing a snow
covered pitch and got too clumsy.
highly recommend the book "Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for
Serious Situations". you will be a good leader once you have mastered all
the scenarios described in the book. you need to master them in the field,
not on the paper. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14
it depends on which biner you are talking about. it you are belaying with a
munter hitch, the biner is not used as a device to change the direction of
force, but rather tha main source of friction to stop a fall. |
|
R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 15 top rope belay顶上redirect的东西就是定滑轮的原理
至于什么munter hitch,根本和这个讨论就没啥关系,那是属于belay device的部分 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 it's a little bigger than quicksilver 2, more clerance, and most importantly
, it's a key lock which has no hook at the gate. that's a very important
feature for me. It is also a pear shape, which is perfect for Munter hitch (
as well as clove hitch). You can use it as your main locker for belaying and
rapping. I would not recommend using quicksilver 2 for that purpose. It
makes a perft biner for personal anchor because you can easily undo it with
one hand. I use quicksilver 2 for sport climbing |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 Neutrino is good for racking Cams, especially C4 since the color coding
matches :) I have a bunch of Neutrinos that I use for spare non-locking
biners.
All my alpine draws use BD Oz, Camp Nano, and Mammut Moses. They are all
good. Camp Nano is a bit small though.
Rocklock is perfect for the main locker for its lightness, reasonably big
size, and roundness (I use reverso 3 with rock lock, so roundness is
important). mini is good for building anchors because it's big enough for
clove/munter hitche |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 18 一直用BD Rocklock做主锁，没啥不满，除了沉甸甸。rack虽然小，可是拎起来还是挺
沉。爬multi pitch或alpine rock，准备把ATC XP放家，用ATC。有没有人用BD Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小
锁做主锁？有什么潜在问题？
BD Vaporlock是这样说的：
# Increases friction up to 30% when lowering or rappelling with an ATC
# Munter Hitch compatible on ropes up to 9.4 mm |
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 19 个人认为有点小，万一需要用Munter Hitch的时候不方便
还是要带一个大点的。
Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小 |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 20 谢谢。现在小锁有5个mini，2个positron，一个vaporlock，一个sentinel，再添一个就
暂时够用了。最喜欢DMM sentinel，strength比vaporlock要好，做工好的就太多了，
只可惜查了一下，好像没说munter compatible.
Product Weight Strength (Gate-Closed) Strength (Gate-Open)
Strength (Minor-Axis) Gate Opening Rope Bearing Surface Width
Catalogue No
Sentinel Screwgate 54g 24kN 8kN 10kN 20mm 9.2mm A262
Vaporlock
Weight :
52 g, 1.8 oz
Closed Gate Strength :
21 kN, 4721 lbf
Open Gate Strength :
8 kN, 1798 lbf
Min |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 21 我用rocklock做munter hitch rappel的时候，看着小命整个挂在一个biner上，还是有
点uncomfortable，换成vaporlock估计要nervous了。但是换成用ATC立马很comfortable |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 其实是心理作用，biner gate合上的时候，哪那么容易会变形
不过用munter的时候，要盯着点看gate别被误打开
free rappel的时候转就转了，其实没所谓，基本上没法避免。
biner |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 23 If anyone wants to be hanging dog, simply tie a munter mule on regular belay
device and leave him/her there (belay from floor anchor)
lol
that |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 24 why it sounds dirty?
up
my |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 25 Mount someone = f*k someone in doggy style. Usually refer to animals. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 32 my rope wasn't twisted untill someone used munter... |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 33 I once used munter to belay up a friend, ended up spending the whole weekend
dealing with the rope twist. Avoiding like plague ever since.
clim |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 34 hmm...maybe i did? but then we should keep using munter...
now think about it, your rope was impossible to feed through even belaying
from harness. |
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 35 Almost always used munter for top belay, easier to setup, easy pulling
the rope, nature direction for the brake. |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 36 So if you rappel on both strands, you munter on two biners? I think one
biner is not big enough for two knots... |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 37 X是个啥？deep water solo?
又看了看，应该是X-climbing, YDS protection rating
A - Ascender
B - Bivy
C - Carabiner
D - Dulfersitz rappel
E - Everest
F - Fall
G - Glissade
H - Helmet
I - Ice axe
J - Jam
K - Knot
L - Layback
M - Munter
N - Nut
O - Off-width
P - Piton
Q - Quickdraw
R - Rope
S - Stove
T - Tyrolean traverse
U - Undercling
V - V-thread
W - Wand
X - X-climbing
Y - Yosemite Grad
Z - Z-pulley |
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 39 回来以后再报告一下什么没用到，什么少带了。
Personal gears(通常的gear不赘述)
Technical gears:
* Harness
* 1 double runner
* 1 single runner
* 3 lockers (1 small, 2 big enough for Munter hitch)
* 3 non-locking biners
* pulley
* texas prusik
* hero loop (a 3-feet prusik)
* chest harness
* crampons
* ice ax
* helmet
Clothing
* base layer
* 2 pairs of wool socks
* fleece vest
* down jacket
* convertible pants
* precip plus jacket
* goretex full zip pants
* 1 pair of thin gloves
* 1 pair of primalost gloves w/ liners
* ski mask |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 主要不就是bowline和water knots嘛，没事儿拿根绳子放在桌子底下打，打几次就熟练
了。
噢，还有munter和clove hitch
么的
爬， |
|
