c**i
发帖数: 6973 | 1 Barbecue and American Culture l Fire in the hole; Barbecue navigates the
twin perils of mass appeal and nostalgia. Economist, Dec 16, 2010.
http://www.economist.com/node
/17722664?story_id=17722664
My comment:
(a) The takeaway is
"American barbecue falls into four broad geographic categories * * * [a] In
North Carolina pork, either whole hog or shoulder, is seasoned minimally if
at all. The sauce, applied at table, varies. In the eastern part of the
state it is usually nothing more than cider vinegar, salt and red pepper
flakes. In the west it may include a bit of tomato. North Carolina barbecue
at its best is as austere and perfect as a bowl of properly cooked Japanese
rice.
"[b] Memphis is known for ribs and shoulder, the former often served 'dry,'
with just a rub of spices, and the latter often served pulled, on a sandwich
, with coleslaw as an essential element rather than an option. [c]
Unsurprisingly, the ranching state of Texas prefers beef to pork. The
brisket is cooked 'low and slow' and often served with nothing more than
Saltine crackers or white bread, raw onions and pickles. Texas also displays
strong German influences, seen in the prevalence of barbecued sausage in
the region just east of Austin, as well as Mexican ones, seen in covered-pit
barbacoa, traditionally made from cows’ heads.
"[d] Kansas City barbecue slathers both beef and pork in a sweet, tomato-
based sauce: this style of barbecue, probably because it is easiest to do
tolerably well and because people always love a sweet sauce, has become the
default broad American style. If you order ribs in a chain restaurant in
Buffalo or Minneapolis, say, you will probably get them doused in sweet
tomato sauce. There are regional quirks throughout the country—western
Kentucky prefers mutton to beef or pork, South Carolina’s sauce is mustard-
based while northern Alabama’s is an abomination based on mayonnaise, and
Chicagoans display a fondness for rib tips (unwieldy, delicious bits of meat
, bone and cartilage). But those are the four main categories.
(b) barbacoa
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbacoa
(originated in the Caribbean with the Taíno people, from which the term "
barbecue" derives; traditionally, in a hole dug in the ground covered with
maguey leaves)
(c) Regarding covered-pit barbacoa.
(i) pit barbecue
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pit_barbecue
(a method and constructed item for barbecue cooking meat and root vegetables
buried below the surface of the earth)
(ii) George Campbell, Deep Pit Barbeque -- Minnesota Style. O So Minnesota!,
undated.
http://www.osomin.com/Eating.htm
(iii) Regarding "a hole dug in the ground covered with maguey leaves." See (
b) above.
* Perry P Perkins, Traditional Mexican Barbacoa. Aug. 13, 2010.
http://burninlovebbq.wordpress.com
/2010/08/13/traditional-mexican-barbacoa/
(photo No. 2)
* Adam Wiseman, Food Tour Patricia Quitana, Hidalgo. Undated.
http://adamwiseman.photoshelter
.com/image/I0000jMPoeHn68ro
* "Tales of LA Addict," Baja Food and Wine Culinary Tour - Day 3: Tijuana.
Barbacoa “Ermita”: Lamb barbacoa cooked in a pit overnight wrapped in
maguey spines. July 18, 2009.
http://www.flickr.com
/photos/la_addict/3756386054/ |
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