T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 1 Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
group of five climbers, who climbed up from west |
k***z
发帖数: 3522 | |
o*******l
发帖数: 116 | 3 RE. same feeling here.
【在 k***z 的大作中提到】
: 光看文章，都心惊肉跳。。。
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 We have really used up everything we brought. When we were back at the trail
head, I've got only one energy bar in my pocket, food wise. And I was able
to make a phone call to LD 3 minutes before the due time, which is 12pm on
Monday.
Other than summitting, the greatest moment was when I got the phone call
from one of the lost climbers informing me they were safe. It was such a
relief. The scariest moment was not on the climb, but rather on the way home
, driving on I5 and witnessing a car crash
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
: ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
: traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
: steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
: once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
: helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
: group of five climbers, who climbed up from west
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 5 Congratulations on the great climb! You guys are so good.
I am very proud to tell others in my group that you are on the top of that
beautiful peak we saw on Hood.
trail
able
home
the
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: We have really used up everything we brought. When we were back at the trail
: head, I've got only one energy bar in my pocket, food wise. And I was able
: to make a phone call to LD 3 minutes before the due time, which is 12pm on
: Monday.
: Other than summitting, the greatest moment was when I got the phone call
: from one of the lost climbers informing me they were safe. It was such a
: relief. The scariest moment was not on the climb, but rather on the way home
: , driving on I5 and witnessing a car crash
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 The most dangerous part of climbing is driving home, you don't even have a
belay...
I felt relief too when I heard those two climbers were safe, also when I
heard you drove home safely.
trail
able
home
the
and
to
some
fell
going
4
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: We have really used up everything we brought. When we were back at the trail
: head, I've got only one energy bar in my pocket, food wise. And I was able
: to make a phone call to LD 3 minutes before the due time, which is 12pm on
: Monday.
: Other than summitting, the greatest moment was when I got the phone call
: from one of the lost climbers informing me they were safe. It was such a
: relief. The scariest moment was not on the climb, but rather on the way home
: , driving on I5 and witnessing a car crash
|
S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 7 屏息读完每个字, 按说英文的非工作所需的文章我几乎不看的.
真是很紧张,
最后祝贺两位凯旋归来,同时安慰一下饼夫人肯定十分担心. |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 TR from the 5 people team we met on the top:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/891531#Post891531
really
another
we
screw
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
: ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
: traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
: steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
: once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
: helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
: group of five climbers, who climbed up from west
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 lol
saw us on the third picture
and
to
some
fell
going
4
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: TR from the 5 people team we met on the top:
: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/891531#Post891531
:
: really
: another
: we
: screw
|
T********d
发帖数: 621 | 10 看得我已经彻底决定，我是绝对不会去爬这个山，这个线滴。 |
|
|
h********r
发帖数: 3291 | 11 beautiful work.我也想爬雪山 :-(
登顶的时候是把帐篷留在营地的吗？另外两个climbers当晚从另一个trail直接下山了
？They should have tagged you closer :-) |
h********r
发帖数: 3291 | 12 Those two in orange?
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: lol
: saw us on the third picture
:
: and
: to
: some
: fell
: going
: 4
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 En, it's not for you YET. You'll never know.
【在 T********d 的大作中提到】
: 看得我已经彻底决定，我是绝对不会去爬这个山，这个线滴。
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | |
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 15 能认出背Osprey的一个，另一个不好说。莫非人手一件Shuksan？
【在 h********r 的大作中提到】
: Those two in orange?
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 You can actually not see me in the picture
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 能认出背Osprey的一个，另一个不好说。莫非人手一件Shuksan？
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 主要偏差就是descent到white water glacier。如果没有off route会容易不少，不过
时间不一定省太多，但是会轻松很多。
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 很牛。说说和计划中的主要偏差有哪些
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 18 就是，浅灰色的裤子+黑背包+浅蓝头盔和另两个人对不上号，你因该是在左边的石头后
面。
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: You can actually not see me in the picture
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 嗯，我可能被挡住了
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 就是，浅灰色的裤子+黑背包+浅蓝头盔和另两个人对不上号，你因该是在左边的石头后
: 面。
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 20 看来原计划是rappel to the red saddle, which is to the south side of summit
pinnacle。因为降下来发现还要traverse a 55 slope才能到red saddle，所以改变了
下到white water glacier的路线。很难make all the right moves/decisions，技术
贮备实在太重要了。
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 主要偏差就是descent到white water glacier。如果没有off route会容易不少，不过
: 时间不一定省太多，但是会轻松很多。
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 嗯，原计划是这样。可能是我们rap错了路线。
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 看来原计划是rappel to the red saddle, which is to the south side of summit
: pinnacle。因为降下来发现还要traverse a 55 slope才能到red saddle，所以改变了
: 下到white water glacier的路线。很难make all the right moves/decisions，技术
: 贮备实在太重要了。
|
T********d
发帖数: 621 | 22 不爬，不爬。
看着就吓人！
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: En, it's not for you YET. You'll never know.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 You said the same thing last year on Dragontail, hehe
【在 T********d 的大作中提到】
: 不爬，不爬。
: 看着就吓人！
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 check this TR:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=699477
Now, I am pretty sure we used the correct rappel anchor. We were supposed to
traverse to the south, but the condition was too bad to do that.
Also, after checking the book "Oregon High", I found the name of our descent
route: Whitewater Headwall. It says Avoid this route after June.
summit
变了
技术
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 嗯，原计划是这样。可能是我们rap错了路线。
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 Again, check this TR and compare our climb with theirs:
1. We climbed almost at the same time 6/27/07 vs. 6/28/09 of a year.
2. On the 2nd schrund, they were not as lucky as us to have a good snow
bridge, they had to climb steep wall
3. On the 2nd part of knife ridge, they went higher than us. It looked like
we did harder route than them
4. On summit ridge, they traversed hgher than us, which is a litter harder,
I believe
5. We used almost the same route for summit pinnacle
to
descent
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: check this TR:
: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=699477
: Now, I am pretty sure we used the correct rappel anchor. We were supposed to
: traverse to the south, but the condition was too bad to do that.
: Also, after checking the book "Oregon High", I found the name of our descent
: route: Whitewater Headwall. It says Avoid this route after June.
:
: summit
: 变了
: 技术
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 yeah, I have seen this TR. It took them 19 hours too. I guess it's not a
short descent anyway
to
descent
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: check this TR:
: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=699477
: Now, I am pretty sure we used the correct rappel anchor. We were supposed to
: traverse to the south, but the condition was too bad to do that.
: Also, after checking the book "Oregon High", I found the name of our descent
: route: Whitewater Headwall. It says Avoid this route after June.
:
: summit
: 变了
: 技术
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 27 Yes, whitewater glacier is supposed to be a long route.
I referred to this TR when I made the plan.
Maybe Russel glacier is the fastest way to go back to camp site now
supposed
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: yeah, I have seen this TR. It took them 19 hours too. I guess it's not a
: short descent anyway
:
: to
: descent
|
Y****6
发帖数: 1235 | |
M********a
发帖数: 190 | 29 Nice climb and report. Glad to see you guys are becoming more and more all
around bad a** climber. How difficult is it to do a crevasse rescue if one
of you fall in the crevasse?
really
another
we
screw
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
: ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
: traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
: steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
: once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
: helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
: group of five climbers, who climbed up from west
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 30 It is a little harder to do CR for two-person rope team. If one falls, the
other one must stop falling and build anchor all by self.
Also, if the situation is complex, for example, one falls into crevasse and
gets hurt, they other one has to deal everything (time-consuming), and build
a complex hauling system.
But, if these two person have similiar weight, and experience, it is much
safer than being on a rope team with two or more inexperienced climbers.
and
to
some
fell
going
4
【在 M********a 的大作中提到】
: Nice climb and report. Glad to see you guys are becoming more and more all
: around bad a** climber. How difficult is it to do a crevasse rescue if one
: of you fall in the crevasse?
:
: really
: another
: we
: screw
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 31 the biggest challenge is to stop the initial fall and get the first anchor
in. After that, if the victim is injured and needs to be hauled, a 3:1
system might not be enough, then you need a more complex rig to do a 5:1. I
doubt you'll need a 9:1 though (a 9:1 however is not more complex than a 5:1)
【在 M********a 的大作中提到】
: Nice climb and report. Glad to see you guys are becoming more and more all
: around bad a** climber. How difficult is it to do a crevasse rescue if one
: of you fall in the crevasse?
:
: really
: another
: we
: screw
|
l****t
发帖数: 916 | 32 羡慕啊 当年那点功力全废了 不知这辈子有没有机会了 |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 33 这个ip地址似乎是Corvallis的？
【在 l****t 的大作中提到】
: 羡慕啊 当年那点功力全废了 不知这辈子有没有机会了
|
l****t
发帖数: 916 | 34 是啊 ，你是MSFT的?
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 这个ip地址似乎是Corvallis的？
|
l****t
发帖数: 916 | 35 OK, 我想起来了，你换了这个马甲我差点没认出
【在 l****t 的大作中提到】
: 是啊 ，你是MSFT的?
|
q*c
发帖数: 17993 | 36 惊险！18个小时！看着就很陡峭～～
really
another
we
screw
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
: ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
: traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
: steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
: once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
: helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
: group of five climbers, who climbed up from west
|
c*******z
发帖数: 604 | 37 高难度
【在 q*c 的大作中提到】
: 惊险！18个小时！看着就很陡峭～～
:
: really
: another
: we
: screw
|
b**k
发帖数: 11850 | 38 我看着就觉得 寒。。。
【在 k***z 的大作中提到】
: 光看文章，都心惊肉跳。。。
|
