f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 1 十三号下午过完年，开到Joshua Tree跟组织会和，一路上看到所有的camp ground都是
full，还是有组织好。好几个星期没见面，大家都亲切，拥抱，问好，聚餐，围着篝火
喝到十一点，睡觉。帐篷里44F，热醒，把睡袋和rain fly拉开，才睡好，除了中间起
了两次起来喝水，方便，酒这个实在是好，除了很脱水之外。
十四号起来，早饭，聊天，到crag已经十点多了，几个rope gun爬上爬下，一会好几条
路线就设好了，爬。。。爬到腿软，天黑前四个人simu climb了一条路线(my first
simu climb)。:)
最喜欢的是我的第一条crack，double cross，5.7（rope gun们一直认at least 5.8，
lots of work）。我们老大先挺着六个月的大肚子给我们演示了一下，开爬前老大给我
来了个crack crash course，如何hand jam，foot jam，toe jam。个人体会是foot
jam很solid，一旦开始trust your hand jam，非常的solid，简直bomber proof。有老
大在下面c |
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 2 I led double cross when I was there. It has quite some accidents on it, due
to it's moderate rating and many newbies are on it. It's got crack that
opens up inside, and rope drag pushes cams in and causes under-cam.
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 十三号下午过完年，开到Joshua Tree跟组织会和，一路上看到所有的camp ground都是
: full，还是有组织好。好几个星期没见面，大家都亲切，拥抱，问好，聚餐，围着篝火
: 喝到十一点，睡觉。帐篷里44F，热醒，把睡袋和rain fly拉开，才睡好，除了中间起
: 了两次起来喝水，方便，酒这个实在是好，除了很脱水之外。
: 十四号起来，早饭，聊天，到crag已经十点多了，几个rope gun爬上爬下，一会好几条
: 路线就设好了，爬。。。爬到腿软，天黑前四个人simu climb了一条路线(my first
: simu climb)。:)
: 最喜欢的是我的第一条crack，double cross，5.7（rope gun们一直认at least 5.8，
: lots of work）。我们老大先挺着六个月的大肚子给我们演示了一下，开爬前老大给我
: 来了个crack crash course，如何hand jam，foot jam，toe jam。个人体会是foot
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 3 I trust our rope guns rating. They been to lots of places like Squamish and
Indian Creek.
Good job onsight that route. I top roped it this time, but will definitely
come back and lead it when I can do trad lead.
due
5.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I led double cross when I was there. It has quite some accidents on it, due
: to it's moderate rating and many newbies are on it. It's got crack that
: opens up inside, and rope drag pushes cams in and causes under-cam.
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 4 六个月，好厉害啊
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 十三号下午过完年，开到Joshua Tree跟组织会和，一路上看到所有的camp ground都是
: full，还是有组织好。好几个星期没见面，大家都亲切，拥抱，问好，聚餐，围着篝火
: 喝到十一点，睡觉。帐篷里44F，热醒，把睡袋和rain fly拉开，才睡好，除了中间起
: 了两次起来喝水，方便，酒这个实在是好，除了很脱水之外。
: 十四号起来，早饭，聊天，到crag已经十点多了，几个rope gun爬上爬下，一会好几条
: 路线就设好了，爬。。。爬到腿软，天黑前四个人simu climb了一条路线(my first
: simu climb)。:)
: 最喜欢的是我的第一条crack，double cross，5.7（rope gun们一直认at least 5.8，
: lots of work）。我们老大先挺着六个月的大肚子给我们演示了一下，开爬前老大给我
: 来了个crack crash course，如何hand jam，foot jam，toe jam。个人体会是foot
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 The crux of double cross. It was a slightly overhang wide hand. Personally I
think the rough texture in J-Tree makes climbs easier.
Please ignore the fat rack -__-!
and
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: I trust our rope guns rating. They been to lots of places like Squamish and
: Indian Creek.
: Good job onsight that route. I top roped it this time, but will definitely
: come back and lead it when I can do trad lead.
:
: due
: 5.
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 6 She used to lead into 11s。Pregnancy slowed her down a lot.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 六个月，好厉害啊
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 7 The rough texture definitely helped. I also like thumb down hand jam better.
It looks like you were over the crux in the picture. Did you try Sexy
Grandma on the right while you were there? I almost strained my hamstring to
get over the crux.
I
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: The crux of double cross. It was a slightly overhang wide hand. Personally I
: think the rough texture in J-Tree makes climbs easier.
: Please ignore the fat rack -__-!
:
: and
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 8 No, we ran out of time and it was getting dark when it was my turn to climb
it.
better.
to
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: The rough texture definitely helped. I also like thumb down hand jam better.
: It looks like you were over the crux in the picture. Did you try Sexy
: Grandma on the right while you were there? I almost strained my hamstring to
: get over the crux.
:
: I
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 9 Two of my climbing friends just flied to J-T all the way from Michigan and
DC to climb. It's such a wonderful winter destination. Plus single pitch
climbs with short approach is best for brushing skills. Jealous...
All of us in Mid-west are waiting for the temp to break into 50s in Kentucky
so that we can start heading down for some sun and real rock...ahhh..
better.
to
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: The rough texture definitely helped. I also like thumb down hand jam better.
: It looks like you were over the crux in the picture. Did you try Sexy
: Grandma on the right while you were there? I almost strained my hamstring to
: get over the crux.
:
: I
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 10 Good choice. Yesterday was perfect for climbing, temperature was in the
upper 70s, very slight breeze. I was just wearing a cap1 t-shirt and
patagonia standup pants, not hot under the sun, not cold in the shades...
In general, if you chase the sun during the day, you can climb in t-shirts
around noon, but you need a down sweater in the shades. I didn't like Joshua
Tree that much the first few times, harsh rock, despirate slabs, crowds.
But now it is becoming my favorite location, 2 hour drive fr
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Two of my climbing friends just flied to J-T all the way from Michigan and
: DC to climb. It's such a wonderful winter destination. Plus single pitch
: climbs with short approach is best for brushing skills. Jealous...
: All of us in Mid-west are waiting for the temp to break into 50s in Kentucky
: so that we can start heading down for some sun and real rock...ahhh..
:
: better.
: to
|
