R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 1 我 9/16有缝好的， 也有散称的
1''的被我用在picket上了，反正上山有别人扛着 lol |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 Which route are you going to take?
Avalanche rarely happened on Mt.Whitney, so if you are not climbing
immediately after a major storm, or going up on an unreasonable warm day, it
should be fine.
Rope up or not, it depends on snow condition and team members' ability. If
the snow on the last chute becomes icy, definitely you want to protect (not
only rope up, you could also need running belay, protecting with snow picket
or even with ice screw). Under good condition, I mean the snow is packed,
ea |
|
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 4 Thanks for the advice.
Plan to take MR. I think our party has little experience about using rope in
snow/ice environment and rope team so probably it is a better choice not to
bring the rope and proceed with care, turn back if condition is too icy.
it
not
picket |
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o*****e
发帖数: 379 | 5 昨天去买picket，拿了最后一个，还想买一个的，没了，让我下个星期再来...
Check out的时候买一个NP Pass，多了一句嘴，说周末去National Forest要用，那个
mm很负责任的说什么也不让我买，说不cover Forest，很无语，最后只好说，我记错了
，那个其实是在National Park里面...
6mm |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 6 不推荐买MSR的那个coyote picket。推荐yates的那个红色的 |
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M********a
发帖数: 190 | 7 Day 5 Wednesday, Jun 24, 大风,没有人想要登顶.下午开始刮风下雪.一阵一阵的大风
刮得帐篷有些移动.我的四季帐用七个snow anchor还不放心,再用两个冰镐加两个
pickets固定四角,然后再挖雪在帐子周围砌出防风墙.一夜大风,不过帐篷很坚固,安然
无事. Ingraham Flat 是扎营的好地方,面对little Tahoma,风景绝佳.我们扎营的那几
天,除了guide service的几顶帐篷,就只有我们一组人.唯一不好的是总有snow fox来偷
东西吃.我有一大包snicker bar是我的主食,全给偷走了,Grant的一包吃的也给偷走了.
幸好有别的队友带吃的多才不至于挨饿. |
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M********a
发帖数: 190 | 8 One of the complaints I have about this trip is some of these guys did not
do a good job cutting weight. I cut everything possible from my pack. After
adding some group gears like 9 lbs of tent, a picket, stove and cooking pan,
my pack is about 56 to 57 lbs. This is a very comfortable weight for me.
But because they brought too much stuff, they can not carry too much group
gear. They add a 8 lbs of rope and 2 lbs fuel to my pack. Luckily I was able
to carry it to Camp Muir. This is another reaso |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
group of five climbers, who climbed up from west |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 10 这么小的人怎么可能看见。我们贡献了3跟绳子，12个人，设了几个picket。
确认一下，这个照片上就是所谓的chute对吧。Hogs back是右边的那条山脊，山脊往上
才是perly's gates? 我们leader说现在已经走不到perly's gates那里去了，因为有
裂缝，我看他回来的报告里头建议改今年的climbing guide. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 you sure you know what snow fluke is and how it works?
used |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 12 好象是附送了两根CABLE, 可以冒充snow fluke用,
但不知道效果如何
used |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 there is a cabled version and there is one without. I got one without so
that I have the flexibility to use it as a deadman. the advantge of it is:
1. easier to drive in
2. the top is protected so it doesn't mushroom from pounding
3. it's less bulky and 3 ounces lighter than MSR coyote |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 14 1 and 3 count a lot
For snow fluke thing, it is an interesting point. But one has to know what
exact the snow fluke is and how to use it, otherwise, it is a disaster.
Snow fluke is rarely used in PNW. |
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o*****e
发帖数: 379 | 15 .........................................
Dave showed us both ways of using it, with wire going through the top hole
to the back and without. When the wire does not go through, it can be used
in soft snow. .. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 I have no idea what you are talking about. but a snow fluke is a big piece
of flake. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 17
ascender
figure eight
yes
set up fixed line with static rope, ice screw and picket
修路在Himalaya式登山里用得比较多，因为需要反复上下运输，适应海拔。 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 18 前几天又买了gear sling和几个biner，算是把基本的rock gear大概弄全了。
本以为可以松口气了，这几天一提醒发现snow gear还缺一大堆。基本上是：
bivy sack: 这个比较没谱，便宜的贵的都有，不知道要不要买。
snow shovel：要求要买金属的，塑料的不行。
snow picket： 最常见的是MSR Coyote，这个要买3ft的？ 2ft的要不要？
glacier rope: 这个要8mm*30m的dry rope？
stove：去年REI打折的时候买了个MSR pocket rocket，据说烧水很慢，看来要退掉。
那该买啥？Dragonfly? Whisperlite? Reactor?
pot: 多大的合适？1L?
ice screw: 上次捡了一个，估计再买一个就差不多了。
ice tool: 先不管。
ice crampon：上次减价的时候买了一个BD Cyborg step in的，这东西不知道配la
Sportiva的红鞋行不行，不过我还有一双plastic boots
avy probe和beacon，先不管，不过以后大概迟早还是 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 I strongly recommend AGAINST MSR coyote. Get a Yates instead. It's just so
much lighter and less bulky. When you carry 4-5 on your shoulder on a route
, you will appreciate. I still remember the pain of carrying 5 pickets on
the knife ridge of El Dorado. There is a cabled version. Mine is without the
cable. I just wanted a little flexibility. Not a big deal and no much
difference in price either. Even if you want to get a coyote (which, again,
I strongly not recommend), get a 2 ft version. You' |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 20 Thanks.
早上在backcountry买了把锹，为凑free shipping加了一个MSR 3 feet picket，看来
是弄错了。打电话过去说已经ship了，没法取消了。
真TNND的快，这个直接refuse delivery要扣邮费么？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 2跟绳子14个picket都用了？
climb了 |
|
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 23 这个两个版本，一个带cable，一个不带。
买哪个比较合适？
还有就是这两个版本的孔不带cable的对齐了，方便自己加runner。自带cable的那个没
对齐，到底是出于什么考虑？ |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 the one used for rappelling on Jefferson?
it. |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 25 那个孔的问题你有啥想法没？
我打算买两个不带cable的，我是觉着那根线多出来很麻烦。
昨天绳子到了，edelweiss discover， 8mm*30m，我看snow gear先这样了。
接下来还需要买的，依先后顺序：
ice screw, stove, ice tool, probe, beacon |
|
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 27 Nobody knows.
But by looking at the loose snow and rotten rocks, my guess is it will final
ly fall off the cliff and slide into a crevasse...
snow
ice |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 and when the glacier finally moves down, it'll emerge somewhere downhill and
become someone's booty
final |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 The hole position is not a concern of mine. Maybe other people have
different opinions, I'd like to hear. But I have discussed it with various
people and it didn't seem to bother anyone I have talked to. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 30 In the middle of a giant desert there lies this museum explaning how the
area used to see towering mountains called Cascades
MSR |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 31 it's still reasonable. last time we climbed Eldorado, my LD's pack was 26
pounds, including helmet, ice axe, harness, biners, webbings, a picket. I
was carrying the tent though |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 32 a? Fred said the last 1000ft is crux and might need picket... He said the
rest is a walk up compared to the last 1000ft :-) Looks like the whole route
is just a walk up?
We camped at 5500ft. Forecast said 60% snow chance on Saturday. So our
original plan is to wake up on Saturday and walk down :-) We already gained
4000+ ft than we originally planned, not bad~
All except me have summitted Baker more than once. So it is just a social
walk up. No one has strong desire to summit, hehe, except me... |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 33 本来想安慰一下你的，呵呵。there is about 500 ft of 30 degree snow. I can't
imagine using pickets though unless the snow has become hard ice. The summit
is literally bigger than a football field, nothing too exciting.
route
gained |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 Here is my setting for your reference:
Cams: BD Neutrino. Reason: color coding. It saves a lot of time looking for
a cam on the rack. You'd appreciate when your arms are pumped.
Draws: nano 23 on one end and BD Oz on the other. Nano is for pro and Oz is
for the rope. I color code single and double draws.
I use a slightly bigger 'biner for snow pickets. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 35 poor guy. I guess he was doing pickets traverse |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 36 恩，同意。对应女款是jade50。
上次爬baker，我背这包，下山的时候背了全部个人物品，
加上帐篷，铲子，锅，气罐，pickets等等，很能装 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 37 体能上，最简单的就是背上35-40磅的包hike至少有3000 elevation gain的trail，最
好是用水做负重，下山的时候倒掉。给你个大致的我们的bench mark: 4 miles, 3300
ft, 2小时及格，1:30优秀。不是说你体能达不到就一定不能登，但是你如果能及格就
会有一定的saftey margin。登山不是跑road race，you can't go all out. when
things happen, rescue might not be immediately available, 即使是Rainier，
rescue也经常是days away
技术上，我们一般都很general的教alpine rock & glacier。我们用的教材是freedom
of the hills 8th edition。书的权威性我不做评价，大家见仁见智。我读过的书也不
少。craig connnally的the mountaineering handbook和cosley & houston的alpine
climbing都是不错的书，但是我不是特别倾... 阅读全帖 |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 38 This climb involves no glacier traveling on ascent, so we didn't rope up,
except for a very short section where we placed pickets for running belay.
Self/team arrest is nearly impossible so unless we use running belay, roping
up makes no sense.
During the climb we unanimously decided that we should climb an easier route
next year. We saw how straightforward Kautz Glacier was when our route
merged with Kautz Cleavor. So our next attempt will be Kautz Glacier. |
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o*****e
发帖数: 379 | 39 下周要出远门，最后一个周末本来打算在家收拾东西的，某天下班前突然收到一封信，
说我从某一个climb的wait list上被揪到正式名单上了，上网一查，就是这个周末的
Baker。不记得什么时候挂上去的了，本来也没指望这么热门的climb能排上队。刚在纠
结要不要cancel算了，发现网上已经不让cancel了。Err… 好吧，以后没事还是不能随
便找wait list挂着玩… 星期六早上在ranger station集合，每个人自己登记，然后一
起走。网上找的地址，GPS愣是找不到，只好group里一个个人打电话问，最后终于摸索
到了，Linda很奇怪的问你不是来过嘛，Err… 上次用的是升级前的GPS，汗… 我们注
册的时候，连我们11个人在内已经有42个人注册周末的Easton Glacier了，Linda感叹
说人真多啊，ranger说这算啥，这还不是旺季呢，7月一天一条路线上百人常有的事…
去年也是走的这条线，一路感叹雪多。今年时间上比去年还要晚一个星期呢，雪更多，
车停的离trailhead能有将近1 mile，沿着winter trail走，山谷里的溪水完全还被雪
盖着呢... 阅读全帖 |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 40 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: rotatezh (剃度在莲台下), 信区: Travel
标 题: Legend of the Andes —— 北秘鲁17日行程和总结
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Thu Jul 21 23:09:23 2011, 美东)
五年前，第一次跨过赤道，去的就是秘鲁。五年后，第五次跨过赤道，还是把目标定在
了这里。这是我喜欢的国家。相对低廉的价格、便利的旅游设施、规范的服务标准，以
及极为丰富和多样的旅游资源，让我在第一次离开的时候便已经在计划着第二次的旅行
。相对于更富盛名的南部，秘鲁北部沿海诸省名气不大，在我看来却更富传奇：从人文
角度而言，这里文明的出现要早于印加，但为世人所知，却多是上个世纪80年代末、90
年代初的事情。几乎所有的遗址现在仍然聚集着来自世界各地的大量考古学家，几乎每
个月都会有新的发现。以完整出土大量制作工艺极高的金饰品而闻名的西潘武士墓(
lord of sipan)和世界上最大的Adobe城市Chan Chan只是其中最为出名的两个代表；从
自然角度而言，这里的Blanca山系和Huayhuash... 阅读全帖 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 7下面是个冰裂缝，不过不宽，大概1尺左右吧
冰裂缝的上缘和下缘高度差大概3尺左右，正好是个很舒服的地方建anchor
不会崩掉，那雪硬得打picket都难 |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 42 Adams glacier
Any ice section? Last year we just walked up, without using any picket or
ice screw. |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 43 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: rotatezh (剃度在莲台下), 信区: Travel
标 题: Legend of the Andes (15) —— Diablo Mudo summit
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Sat Oct 29 02:24:06 2011, 美东)
凌晨2点半起床，3点早饭。依旧是明朗的月、璀璨的星，我们的运气真好，两个climb
都碰上了这样的好天。早饭仍然只有干面包加热水，吃过饭、装了两个三明治在包里就
乘着夜色出发了。虽然站在帐篷外并不觉得冷，但按照上次的经验，我没有脱羽绒服。
高原上走不快，日出之前慢慢走是不至于出汗的。刚开始是比较平缓的trail，zig-zag
的爬坡。上到5000米垭口之前的最后一段路是在moraine的碎石堆上直接往上爬。还在
碎石堆下面的时候，就看到山脊的高度有两盏头灯晃来晃去，到近处才看到就是昨天碰
到的那个南非gg和他的Partner，估计是在黑暗里又没有现成的路，找不到翻过山脊的
垭口。垭口之后，是一段贴着山脊的向右traverse的路，基本有trail可以follow。
6点多，t... 阅读全帖 |
|
u********r
发帖数: 2525 | 44 雪地里面？呵呵
雪地里面不用deadman,没有picket，n条生命在一个ice axe上面，至少你搞两个插进去
rig出个master point来啊，哈哈 |
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o*****e
发帖数: 379 | 45 星期天的Ingalls本来是别的mentor group的private climb，刚好多出来一个位置，我
运气好，加了个塞，呵呵。天气预报一直很不乐观，星期天是20%的降雨概率，但之前
之后几天都有降水，Josh说如果星期天的预报再多10%的概率，他就取消了，但是没有
；于是星期六的傍晚，我们按计划出发。一路大雨滂沱，离开I-90之后只有很短的一段
路云开了，能看得到水洗过的淡淡的天空；Ingalls的trail head附近天又阴沉了下来
。我们只能寄希望于明天那片没有云的区域能飘到我们头顶。晚上在停车场边上camp的
，半夜的时候下过几阵很短的急雨，打在我的帐篷上稀里哗啦的响。星期天早上5点一
刻起床，收拾东西吃饭，在停车场分东西。我和Tristan一组，他管绳子，我管rack。
好重的一大串铁块啊，我是这个摸摸那个碰碰、哪个也舍不得留下啊。最后Josh帮我挑
了一下，留下了一些最小的和中间偏大的nuts，剩下的也还是挺沉的。其实最后我和
Tristan整条线最后只用了Cam，C3的#2，C4从.3到3，double了.5到2的4个。以后有经
验了，rack应该能轻不少，平常p... 阅读全帖 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 46 你太轻了。我去年在Hood经历了70左右的风，当然也不是一直70，gust到70。我还勉强
没被吹倒，不过也要弯着腰降低重心和受力面积，在summit ridge上还打了几根picket
才登顶。登顶了我带的学生问我，咱们能休息5分钟吃点东西吗，我说吃你个头，let's
get the fuck out of here. |
|
r******h
发帖数: 809 | 47 最近很忙，不一定有时间写日记，简单说一下Mt. Blanc吧，in case有人有兴趣。
本来想走3-peak traverse route，所以找的向导，不过因为8月底的一场大雪，那条路
走不了了，改成最简单的Gouter route。
小火车可以一直做到1700多米。
3100多米的Ref. de Tête Rousse是第一个mountain hut。边上有营地，不过全是大石
头，肯定睡不舒服，keke。从火车站到这里是hike。
从Ref. de Tête Rousse到3800多米Ref. de Gouter算是crux，这700米上升是冰、岩
混合地段，大概class 3的scramble，比较暴露。夏天会不会snow free我不知道，不过
我们去的时候就算mid afternoon，也要穿crampon走的。如果不跟向导，最好不要走夜
路，很难找路。白天没问题，石头上有红色的标记，不少地段还有cable。那个cable是
借力用的，不是保护用的。
Ref. de Gouter边上也有营地，是snow camp。这个高度过夜我觉得高原反应会是一个
问题。Alps总体不高，... 阅读全帖 |
|
r******h
发帖数: 809 | 48 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: rotatezh (剃度在莲台下), 信区: Travel
标 题: 足迹阿尔卑斯(13) - Top of the Alps
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Mon Oct 22 02:39:52 2012, 美东)
凌晨一点被一阵山崩地裂般的闹铃声给吼醒了，Ervin估计怕跟昨天一样又睡过了，铃
声调的那个响啊，可怜宿舍里其他不用早起的了... 简单收拾了东西，到餐厅吃早饭。
餐厅的一个角落里还睡了好些人，估计是没订到床位的。欧洲的mountain hut这点还是
蛮好的，无论有没有预定、还有没有空位，总不会让投宿的人无家可归。早饭是真少，
拼起来还没有一片面包大，好在事先知道，自己准备了点吃的。快两点的时候正式出发
，这里的海拔还不算太高，屋外倒是一点也不冷。Ervin全程short rope我们，不过他
的手里留了很长一段绳子，所以如果fall了，他放开绳子、我们之间还是可以有一段很
长的缓冲。一小段穿过Tete Rousse冰川的路后，来到了Aiguille du Gouter的脚下。
沿着山坡爬到顶上Gouter木屋... 阅读全帖 |
|
q***z
发帖数: 554 | 49 如题。寻找山友。7/6或者7/7,我7/5凌晨抵达PDX,有车。Hogsback > Old Chute线路。
去年我和guide上到了hogsback, turned back due to high avalanche danger.
本人经验：confident and fit winter climber, solid crampon/axe experience.
Took crevasse rescue and glacial travel class this April. On Rainier/Hood
last year 5/28 weekend with guides but turned around due to avalanche danger
. Will bring 30m rope and two ice tools/two pickets. I'm laid back and sane,
looking for someone with similar experience and can maintain cool head
under tough ... 阅读全帖 |
|
q***z
发帖数: 554 | 50 和我来Hood? 我飞机7.4下午就到了，我们可以当天晚上就爬，然后7.5-7.7干点别的.
就是两个人一起solo climb了. 除非你有结绳经验我就带绳子,然后4个pickets. |
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