f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 1 What kind of rope is this? 5mm?
I once carried 10.5mm rope, it was about 7-8 lb. |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 2 不是一个档次的，没法pk
人能lead 10s
俺现在top rope都不能说很熟练地clean大部分10A，呵呵
户外overhang malibu 那边有个5.9的，top rope都得咬牙上去
下来就pump了，呵呵 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 3 我见过更发指的guide book
号称第一次rappel距离160ft, 用了两根60m 绳子double rope rappel, 我第一个下的,
到了离rope end还有1尺的时候, anchor在我下面3ft的地方 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 4 今天跟club的Tord爬了Tooth，basic rock climb。
早上3点半起床，吃饭，做了两个三明治带上。4点15出门，沿90开到52号出口，左转上
alpental road，这条路其实来过很多回了，不过都是去滑雪的。
开到路末端的upper alpental停车场，我是第一个。穿好鞋陆陆续续人就到了，Tord做
lead两三年了，rope lead Eric和John都是第四年的中级班学生，Rich和我都是今年的
初级班学生，另外的Cris初级班已经毕业好几年了，不过毕业后就没怎么再爬过了。
Mountianeers俱乐部这种组织形式挺好，不同的climb可以碰见各种各样不同的人，大
家都是来自五湖四海，为了同一个目标走到一起来了。 rope lead在climb的时候要
lead climb，责任很大。初级班的学生爬的时候就容易点，但是传统是初级班的学生要
负责帮lead背绳子，背rack，整理绳子，爬的时候还要帮lead背食物啊水啊衣服啊啥的
，很有意思，就跟NBA第一年的新人要帮老人拎包一样，大家都是这么过来的。
6点半从停车场出发，tord在前头走得还挺快的，走 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 5 It is a little harder to do CR for two-person rope team. If one falls, the
other one must stop falling and build anchor all by self.
Also, if the situation is complex, for example, one falls into crevasse and
gets hurt, they other one has to deal everything (time-consuming), and build
a complex hauling system.
But, if these two person have similiar weight, and experience, it is much
safer than being on a rope team with two or more inexperienced climbers.
and
to
some
fell
going
4 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 from wiki:
* Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury.
* Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of
the hands. Little potential danger is encountered.
* Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. A rope can be carried but
is usually not required. Falls are not always fatal.
* Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural
protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal.
* Class 5: Technical free climbing involvi |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 7 呵呵，想起当初pink来，lead我们这那个Point dume的一条5.10B
前不久又去top rope那条路线
仗着有rope，很多crazy动作，以及好多勉强努过去的地方
想想要是lead，还很run out，怎么可能嘛... |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 8 repel用10mm + 7mm一起repel有特别的注意事项么
如果用7mm来belay leading，必须折起来两股一起当twin rope用了吧
而且7mm跟10mm rope的belay device也不通用 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 of course rope has more chance to get stuck in low angle route, but in this
case, it is not hard to climb back, we are talking about how to retrieve
rope
said |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 10 That's what I did during Sahale trip.
After I was ready, I asked those who had used ropes as cushion the previous
night, then flack all three ropes while they were getting themselves ready...
10 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 11 还是60m的用的多
我的lead rope是9.4的，感觉是条trip rope，不是用来平时hanging dog的 |
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t**y
发帖数: 204 | 12 Gym里top rope 10B，户外只爬过两次，sport top rope 5.9 没问题，10勉勉强强能上
去。试过lead 5.4，没爬过Trad和Multipitch。准备10月份上basic climbing和
Archors的课。能参加土人队吗？ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 13 outdoor你爬multi-pitch多不？这个rope没有midle mark，要自己弄。rope marker会
让绳子变僵硬，10mm以上的绳子mark之后过普通的ATC就困难了，会卡。
如果只是简单的single-pitch可以不弄middle mark。这是个比较粗重耐用的绳子，作
为第一条入门的绳子不错。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 There is a whole bunch of parameters about ropes. I can keep talking for a
whole day about these parameters, all sorts of UIAA tests, and the dynamics
of climbing. But you know what? None of them really matter that much. Three
things I look when I buy a rope: weight, length, and dry treatment. What's
the most important thing? Belay technique. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 结论和原因都没错
不过对beginner来说,区别真的不大, beginner多半刚开始上的是low angle, 那种很
serious的lead fall遇到的机会不多, 即便fall, 也都是不大的fall
所以如果同样的价格, 两个绳子对beginner来说区别不大. 等到真的有区别的时候, 你
第一根绳子也差不多该退休了
btw: NE那跟绳子也是10.2的, 而且是dry rope
mammut的那个我没注意看是否是dry rope, 如果不是的话, 最好还是只用于rock
climbing. 我假定你是想搞一根用来做alpine climb的绳子
5mm
force
thing
值得 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 16 NE rope: $122 including tax
Mammut rope: $140 include shipping. I think the center and end marks are
worth the difference |
|
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 18 Runout真厉害啊，动不动就几十个feet的runout。friction slab上的runout尤其吓人
。比起来RRG的sports climbing简直是gym。我问别人我现在能不能爬snake dike，一
个rope length的runout啊，别人说，没有啦，就half rope length的run out，而且是
在5.4的部分，很简单！我汗。
爬granite不多，真要换个climbing area要学的东西好多啊。同感qun说的5.6的trad
lead都没那么容易呢。 |
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s********e
发帖数: 814 | 19
放狗发现有人diy：
This is a bomber bag with the perfect amount of space for a day at the crag
. It fits everything I need INSIDE (60m
rope, 50m webbing, harness, helmet, shoes, quickdraws, chalkbag, lunch,
first aid kit, etc). If I run some cord through
the loops on the lid and strap my rope to the outside, it opens up some
space for my lightweight sleeping bag and
bivy. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 sure, but why the hassle while there are plenty of packs that are readily
available with rope compression straps? also, they didn't count for the rack
. I don't think you can fit a 60m rope and a rack (even a light one) in the
pack.
crag |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 21 I did my first tendom repel today, and first time using half rope. I found
half rope really versitile and efficient for the type of climbs we're doing
in Red Rocks.
We bailed CC due to rain/snow/hail + high wind + higher 30s temperature
yesterday. Our plan was combining the 9 pitches into 6 and do a quick ascend
. Will go back when the weather is more stable.
up |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 Tandem rappel (also called spider rappel) is very useful for speeding
descending and rescuing.
I had chance to use half rope several months ago on a 3-pitch climb, really
efficient in case one leads, two follow.
Actually, if you remember the first day we climbed cat in the hat, the group
behind us was using double rope
doing
ascend
cleared
perfect
,
Quickly
The
snow
to
found |
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d********r
发帖数: 303 | 23 本人打算购买攀岩主绳。 基本上打算只用于top roping
现在有两个可能的choice
1. mammut flash
2. bluewater accelerator
都是60m。 价格都差不多。大家觉得那个好点。（考虑我是新手， 可能更需要考虑绳
子的耐用性）
此外，本人目前是不是不用考虑购买dry rope? |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 24 我们旁边有三个人在攀冰，WI3的线吧，一个人在free solo，我走过去没说啥。忽然那
个free solo的人开始叫: Hey, where's my rope？
其它两个人也跟着叫，you forgot to bring the rope!
上面那个人在10米高的waterfall ice上面，说shit, I'm gonna anchor myself
first... |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 25 是不是买个对half rope？展开说说8.5的half rope拿来干吗好 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 26 十三号下午过完年，开到Joshua Tree跟组织会和，一路上看到所有的camp ground都是
full，还是有组织好。好几个星期没见面，大家都亲切，拥抱，问好，聚餐，围着篝火
喝到十一点，睡觉。帐篷里44F，热醒，把睡袋和rain fly拉开，才睡好，除了中间起
了两次起来喝水，方便，酒这个实在是好，除了很脱水之外。
十四号起来，早饭，聊天，到crag已经十点多了，几个rope gun爬上爬下，一会好几条
路线就设好了，爬。。。爬到腿软，天黑前四个人simu climb了一条路线(my first
simu climb)。:)
最喜欢的是我的第一条crack，double cross，5.7（rope gun们一直认at least 5.8，
lots of work）。我们老大先挺着六个月的大肚子给我们演示了一下，开爬前老大给我
来了个crack crash course，如何hand jam，foot jam，toe jam。个人体会是foot
jam很solid，一旦开始trust your hand jam，非常的solid，简直bomber proof。有老
大在下面c |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 27 I trust our rope guns rating. They been to lots of places like Squamish and
Indian Creek.
Good job onsight that route. I top roped it this time, but will definitely
come back and lead it when I can do trad lead.
due
5. |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 28 前几天又买了gear sling和几个biner，算是把基本的rock gear大概弄全了。
本以为可以松口气了，这几天一提醒发现snow gear还缺一大堆。基本上是：
bivy sack: 这个比较没谱，便宜的贵的都有，不知道要不要买。
snow shovel：要求要买金属的，塑料的不行。
snow picket： 最常见的是MSR Coyote，这个要买3ft的？ 2ft的要不要？
glacier rope: 这个要8mm*30m的dry rope？
stove：去年REI打折的时候买了个MSR pocket rocket，据说烧水很慢，看来要退掉。
那该买啥？Dragonfly? Whisperlite? Reactor?
pot: 多大的合适？1L?
ice screw: 上次捡了一个，估计再买一个就差不多了。
ice tool: 先不管。
ice crampon：上次减价的时候买了一个BD Cyborg step in的，这东西不知道配la
Sportiva的红鞋行不行，不过我还有一双plastic boots
avy probe和beacon，先不管，不过以后大概迟早还是 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 30 1. Cinch is a bit lighter. It's a pro, true.
2. Cinch takes a wider range of rope diameter. It's insignificant for me. I
do not use thin rope when I use a grigri/cinch.
3. grigri has a longer lever. it's much more smooth when you rap on single
strand, especially with the pig (haul bag)
4. Cinch is harder to use, it's very easy to screw up. Lots of people
complain about it.
I have read tons of reviews on supertopo, and the above 4 issues are
basically the concensus. Majority wall climbers use Gri |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 31 dude, if you don't make that damn move, I'm gonna cut the fucking rope! Oh,
wait, it's my friggin' rope... |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 32 Both DMM and Mad Rock produce Helium-like biners, those biners have relative
small hook, which is not a problem for fat rope.
But they are not key lock, they can still catch thin rope and pros.Key lock
is becoming a standard feature. More and more key lock gated biners
(locking and nonlocking) appeared on market. But the design of key lock wir
ed biner is really smart (wildcountry must claimed patent). It will take for
a while before other companies can catch up. |
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p****n
发帖数: 109 | 33 So far I rope-climped two times, both outdoor. They were both in last
November at Big Chief. I flashed two 5.10d, but didn't make the 5.11b. I
think I might like rope climbing better, because I can really climb high,
but inconvenient part is that I have to go with partner. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 34 I don't get that from the outside article, maybe there is some context i am
missing: is it untouchable because it's a special natural wonder? then El
Cap and many other rocks fit into the category too.
i think the damage is particularly significant because the rock is extremely
soft and delicate, one of potter's friend was first a supporter than a
strong critic after it is believed that potter used top rope to rehearsal
the climb thus left rope mark near top of the rock.
untouchables, |
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p****n
发帖数: 109 | 35 John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, climbed 20 feet rope with arms
only, in 3.4 sec, faster than a normal person just pulling the rope by hands
.
climb |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 36 co-没
一般top rope之前都没时间bouldering
top rope之后，发现只能上V1了
关照
是菜
的脚
爬墙 |
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j****e
发帖数: 118 | 37 不会吧。
其实我觉得bouldering和tope rope不能直接比比。bouldering技巧的成分多很多，
top rope
很考耐力。 bouldering比较好玩，可也应该常常爬点长的route，我觉得我开始只
bouldering之
后手臂越来越弱，overhang做得越来越差。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 38 grades don't really mean a lot. I have made a few 5.11 moves on top ropes in
the gym but that is far from someone who can solid lead trad sustained
multiple pitch 5.11 routes.
Different climbing styles also vary A LOT. I have led hard 5.8 easy 5.9
friction slabs but struggle with 5.7 cracks top rope @ Tieton River.
Also, if you incorporate exposure and runout factors, that's another whole
different story. I have seen 5.10 gym climbers simple freak out on exposed
unprotectable 5.4 moves |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 39 The whole team falling into crevasses is rare, but climbing up is not a rare
ly used way for CR, especially for 2-p or 3-p rope team.
In any case, if the whole rope team falls into the crevasse, they might need
other people's help for rescuing. Chances are slight that they only get min
or injuries and can climb out.
out
may |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 It was probably more caused by tiredness. That's why I never use their
approach for rappelling. If I need an extra rope, I bring an extra rope. I
like the rappel rig clean and simple and fool proof that everyone can
understand and spot any mistakes. |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 41 Neither of us has a radio. Many people don't like radio either, for
different reasons.
Usually, when rope uses up, it is sign of "off belay". When rope gets tight
as follower moving, it is sign of "climb on". We use this to communicate.
all |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 42 What did tigershead means two rope teams? Means you can connect two ropes
together and have fewer rappel?
hat about two cars? You can use a different route to rappel? |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 43 Gosh, exactly the same thing happened to us on Solar Slab!! We made a
mistake on rope management with three people and a pair of half rope. And
for a while the belayer noticed that she wasn't anchor to anything at all!
We noticed this before the leader placed the first piece of gear. If any of
them fell, I would have to run out for rescue since both of them would be
stuck in the chimney below.
It scared the crap out of us.
When we rapped off solar slab (god knows how many raps, must be at least |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 44 Rope is not a issue. Too many bolts for a short pitch is, :)
It's really a beginner friendly route. Almost every 5.8 move has a bolt
protecting it.
Most belay station bolts are seperate than the Rapel station rings.
70m almost no use as need scramble between several pitches. To link them,
you need 140m rope, :) |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 45 It takes a climber to go anti-climber. Who else can cut your rope, take out
your bolts?
the
which
rope |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 46 I am bad at remembering names...
There are at least two other groups doing Sahale that weekend from our club
as far as I know. So if you know someone from previous climb, (not field
trips), then probably not.
BTW, not sure whether you know the rope leader, some Bill. He is a very good
rope leader, one of the best I have met. Strong, nice, patient, responsible
and take good care of every detail. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 47 I won't use fat rope on multi-pitch climb. Pulling rope itself through belay
device is tiring |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 48
this sounds horrible, i totally don't know how to deal terrible rope drag,
last time i got into bad rope drag(much better than your friend's case), i
took the pain to downclimb and swap in a double runner. |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 49 刚看完self rescue的书，里面scenario 10就是这个。
基本上只有downclimb这个方法。如果下面的人有第二根绳子，可以先escape belay，然后再rope solo on the second rope，把底下的几个protection松掉或者换double runner或者换保护位置。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50 you kidding me? a whipper leader fall on an overhanging sport route can
easily put 10kN force on the rope. the tensile strength of a single rope is
usually well over 25kN.
can you create a 10kN force rappelling with a kayak? |
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