c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 The film is a documentary climbing history of Yosemite. It tells the stories
of all important Yosemite climbers in the history. Truely inspiring. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 2 你搜一下Jay Smith的crack climbing video，在youtube上，很不错
我开始爬的时候手脚都痛，现在爬jamming习惯了，都不tape手了。最开始几个月得咬
牙爬 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 也不是。如果不会爬crack，是没法爬trad的，只能爬sports，就完全被bolted routes
限制住了。trad比较adventurous，跟sports climbing基本是不同的运动。 |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 4 Sounds like you are addicted to climbing. |
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e*******9
发帖数: 193 | 5 最近练laddering手指受伤了，只能做些简单的climb和练习Crack，发现crack jamming
还是很有意思的，这是我的一点体会
1.首先多练习可以降低手背神经的敏感度，攀岩的人手心都很粗糙，所以手背常常比手
心的肉还嫩。练习过几次后，手背明显开始粗糙，也没有以前那么怕疼了，估计没事儿
插插绿豆什么的，也可以起到练习的作用。
2.刚开始的时候只会用正手（拇指向上），后来发现其实反手（拇指向下）jamming更
好用。后来再仔细看了两段录像，发现其实多数人是一反一正，自己以前没有注意到这
个细节。比如这个片段，http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t6bMB9WgJE&feature=player_embedded 这个女孩几乎全部是反手。反手再加一个侧身，然后虚点一只脚，可以jam得更高一些。
3.还有脚Jam的时候一定要jam的多一些，最好脚掌全部放到缝里面，Jam得少了反而更
痛苦。 |
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e*******9
发帖数: 193 | 6 I hope the gym can set up a crack climbing in bouldering area. |
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e*******9
发帖数: 193 | 7 Thanks. Good point. I think I want to enjoy the nature a little bit after
the meeting. Maybe just a car camp.
Do people espeically climbing people camp there? |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 8 My recommendation is spending a full day at Black Corridor, and another half
day driving around the 13 mi loop road, check out some view points and
short hikes.
Gallary will be too hot in March, and all other sports climbs are really
spreaded out that need quite some route finding. |
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e*******9
发帖数: 193 | 9 谢了，Camp的另外主要目的是想Hook up with someone to climb. Car camp应该还好
，我想租个SUV, 在车后面就可以睡了。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 I am not a big fan of so called classic climb. Denali is on my list though |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 11 我想先把Grand Teton via Exum Ridge搞了。Whitney East Face要过几年再说，我认
识的人里最快的从攀岩开始三年搞定East face。
Not as enthusiastic about snow climbing/glacier travel as before, rock
attracts most of my attention these days. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 12 说说我的意见，刚开始climb的时候，尽量多利用身边资源，切忌舍近求远。
你们附近能爬的地方很多， high seirra是宝地，稍微远一点yosemite也有无数的路线
可爬，何必要搞那么远？
你现在的能力，稍微练练，再找到合适的lead，follow whitney east face应该很有希
望
先follow一次，增加经验，等自己lead能力上去了，可以自己lead。
去爬附近的山好处就是成本低，一旦因为天气或者其他客观原因，很容易做出撤退的决
定，不会冒险。 去远地方爬山， 因为付出太多，有可能会让你做出比较激进的决策
though |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 13 Right. Going out climbing is not the problem, the problem is to find time.
It was one of those stupid promises one made to himself, I will do these in
the 1st year, those in 2nd year... |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 14 听过来人的话，you need to get your priorities right，screw job hunting, go
climbing |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 15 Not while you are in flat Michigan, too limited for climbing. You need to
come to the west.
Find a job in Socal. You can ski in the morning, enjoy hard cragging in the
afternoon, have real Chinese food for dinner, and Karaoake (for young guys)
in Little Tai Bei in the evening.
Socal, there is no place like it. |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 16 I wish I was climber by then. I would have so much time to train and climb.
Looking back, I wasted so much time on meaningless hobbies, worked my ass
off publishing papers...sigh, I was so young |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 17 I see "围城" here
everyone thought others live better life, that's actually bullshit
CLIMB ON! |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 en, shut the fuck up and climb! |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 you are a dedicated climber. no wonder you climb at a level that I can only
imagine.
practise |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 20 The one training I found not practical is blind climbing. I cannot do any
thing with my eyes closed on the wall.
this |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 21 才发现其中一个是sport climbing 101那个人
Adam Stack好搞啊，说第一个crux是离开地面，每次都不想上。。。
又看了一遍所有的片段
觉得还挺有意思的
有氧无氧那块有点晕，对着书看了看才明白 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 22 Who cares about festivels in such a climbing area that's renowned for
moderate multi-pitch trad? I would rather avoid it. |
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p****n
发帖数: 109 | 24 试试evolv pontas。这个鞋虽然也比较aggressive,但是没有那么痛苦。这个鞋很适合
bouldering 和 sports climbing. |
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N****e
发帖数: 44 | 25 It will be easy then. Keep shooting a V4 problem that fits your climbing
style. You will get it soon. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 grades don't really mean a lot. I have made a few 5.11 moves on top ropes in
the gym but that is far from someone who can solid lead trad sustained
multiple pitch 5.11 routes.
Different climbing styles also vary A LOT. I have led hard 5.8 easy 5.9
friction slabs but struggle with 5.7 cracks top rope @ Tieton River.
Also, if you incorporate exposure and runout factors, that's another whole
different story. I have seen 5.10 gym climbers simple freak out on exposed
unprotectable 5.4 moves |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 27 he's in no trouble. some girl climbs better than he does, so what?
't |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 28 u can swing in climbing (which is like semi-dyno)
so it doesn't matter any way, lol |
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j****e
发帖数: 118 | 29 那几双比较热的climbing shoes是20% off
别忘了10%的bing cash back
终于把Miura买了， 好期待 |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 30 I will be in NYC this week. Want to hit the climbing gym to keep fit. Any
local climbers? My time is flexible. |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 31 【 以下文字转载自 Seattle 讨论区 】
发信人: rotatezh (浊酒一杯家万里), 信区: Seattle
标 题: [转让] Mt St. Helens climbing permit 5/29
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Wed May 26 22:19:48 2010, 美东)
Coming Saturday. Weather is OK on Saturday.
You need permit (100 quote per day) to get higher than 4800ft. Sell at face
price ($22). PM if interested. Thanks. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 32 Rope bag is to go inside of your climbing pack.
Single pitch with short approach --> any pack would do
Single pitch with long approach --> any comfortable pack big enough
Multi-pitch --> I use a bigger bag for approach and a smaller one to take on
route
：（ 而 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 33 你去climbmax和mountainshop看看
climbmax里面的climbing gear比较独特，也比较专业 |
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d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 34 omc还有，我今天歪打正着，在climb max旁边看到一家omc，在那里买了一双鞋 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 35 alpine动作必须要快，rockies的afternoon thunderstorm说来就来。Teton的一些
alpine路线rating是很moderate，但crux是friction slab+ runout
去年去teton的时候8月lower saddle 1ft的雪，我根本就没敢上。加上我partner动作
太慢，就只能放弃了。alpine不可预见的因素太多，rating要比平时single pitch的低
上好几个digit我才敢爬。最简单的Owen-spalding是5.4，但你technical climb不
能solid on 5.7+也不敢爬啊。 |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 36 2-person climb party, 6 hours car-to-car would be considered very efficient
and kept moving all the time.
Guess what's the time for the record:
54 minutes car to car.
My response: NO WAY!
Yes WAY! |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 37 My response was: NO WAY!
The climb leader's response was; YES WAY.
My response after that is: Then they are different species from human being. |
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r***t
发帖数: 505 | 38 【 以下文字转载自 LosAngeles 讨论区 】
发信人: robot (土鳖No.1), 信区: LosAngeles
标 题: 问一下Whitney的climbing
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Thu Jul 29 03:18:20 2010, 美东)
请问如果需要爬Whitney的话，
1)10月份是否还可以，比如10月15日左右。
2）weekday去爬也需要申请permit么？
10月中旬有机会在南加，想抽三天左右时间，爬一下Whitney.当然，仅仅是计划！
谢谢！ |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 39 这个周末是去爬Liberty Bell/Concord Tower. 计划是周六晚上在blue lake TH扎营，
周日爬一天回家。
周六的时候leader打电话，说有紧急情况要提前出发，他有个朋友周末去爬Mt Challen
ge，结果被石头砸到，往下滚了150 feet，受了很严重的伤。幸好他们队伍里有人有pe
rsonal location unit，即时发出了警报和定位信息。后来据说这警报先是被空军发现
，然后报给了ranger啥的，五个小时后直升飞机到达把他送到了医院。不然的话麻烦就
大了，因为这个challaenge非常遥远，走进去要走三天，光靠人走出来报警的话要耽误
很长很长时间。
leader说要先顺路去医院看看受伤的朋友，因为carpool的原因，我也就跟着去了。看着
情况还挺严重的，右腿大腿腿骨摔断了，拿钉子重新钉起来，脸上多处擦伤，缝了很多
针。不过医生说恢复情况还好，应该能恢复到受伤之前的情况，hiking climbing什么的
都可以。我们聊起来才发现，他上周去了Forbidden peak，就是在notch bivy，白菜和
饼干桶超过的那个group |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 40 还有一件值得一提的，
那面墙上从山顶下来几条fix line，有人在上面清路线，不时就听见有人喊“rock”，
然后就扔几块松的小石头下来。后来听人说那个人就是Bryan Burdo，写mazama rock
climbing guide的那个，这里的路线基本都是他定的，prime rib的bolts也都是他打的
。他一定很自豪他定的这些线。 |
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r***t
发帖数: 505 | 41 对需要住宿三晚的climbing, 什么食品能够补充较多能量，同时能够尽量地不需要过多
排便？个人实
在不喜欢blue bag. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 42 3天的climb 不用blue bag比较难，作为climber，你要习惯于用 |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 43 应该是rock climbing吧。用绳子，用harness，用专用鞋的那种。
其他的是hiking吧。 |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 44 Climbing includes mountaineering (alpine), ice, and rock (trad, sport and
bouldering, building, etc). |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 45 climbing machine呀，景仰中... |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 Sorry that I'm not of much help. I didn't climb any multi-pitch back in
China. You can basically yell at each other for anything if it's a short
single pitch. |
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k**u
发帖数: 10502 | 48 【 以下文字转载自 Seattle 讨论区 】
发信人: yccyccy (yy), 信区: Seattle
标 题: Climb for a Cause - 慈善登山计划
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Fri Sep 17 01:07:21 2010, 美东)
加了中文版的。。。 |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 49 今年crag的课两种都教，不过好像已经倾向于Equalette了。
不复杂，Cordelettes虽然看起来简单，我觉得要调整的平衡比Equalette费时间，当然
可能因为我就没怎么practice。Equalette熟了很快，调整起来比较简单，我觉得哈。
两本书合起来形成的，前一本是讲单个的确保点，后一本是讲确保点系统。很详细，算
是类似领域的开山之作。
Equalette和Quad评价很高。这个Equalette目前在climb中使用的广泛程度到底如何？
实际弄起来还是有点复杂，要是pitch比较多后来大概会发昏，大家对这个是什么看法？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50 Something I did yesterday: I found a bomb proof chock stone and slung it,
clove hitched myself to it using the rope, put in a #1, clove hitched and
adjusted so the two points are equalized. The belay was literally set up in
under 1 minute.
The exact same belay station, I once climbed with a newbie. He spent 13
minutes to build an equalette anchor. Yes I timed him.
ledge
法？ |
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