S********g
发帖数: 922 | 1 Why? Although majority of people don't end up doing multi-pitch trad
climbing, but if they do, I really think the auto block mode from ATC guide
is a must know. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 agree
Belay device with auto-locking mode is a big plus for multi-pitch climb.
Two popular belay devices with this feature are BD ATC guide and petzl rever
sal 3. Reversal 3 is lighter than ATC guide, but guide handles fat rope much
smoother than reversal 3.
guide |
|
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 you want to climb the same day? Maybe try sport routes...
to |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 5 Yeh, climb the same day and maybe save some money. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 6 基本上都在爬trad，意外发现每次出去爬trad回来爬sports耐力变好了。
在gym一半时间都bouldering，从年初的V2都困难，到年底V3基本都能clean，也能
clean某些风格的V4/V5了。
年底在RRG意外地onsight了人生第一个5.11a和redpoint了人生第一个5.11d (both on
lead)，不过两个都是我比较擅长的类型，比较vertical的路线。
今天在gym lead了第二个5.11d，有一点overhang, felt solid.
年初看了How to climb 5.12这本书。书里有具体的训练日程。意思其实就是技巧加上
爆发力加上耐力。技巧在我刚开始学攀岩的时候很系统地练过一年，基础还在那里；耐
力和爆发力双管齐下，这个season还是有些进步的。不过现在push grades也越来越困
难，不受伤还是王道：） |
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m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 7 这样说来是不是Sport Lead可以Push到TR的最高水平只要克服心理障碍？
我目前的看法是For fun的话，男生在5.12s，女生在5.11s就差不多都可以玩了。
climbing |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 my point is, it's easier to push when you know it's safe to take a fall. I
have taken a few lead falls on aid climbs, they are not nearly as scary as
falls on 5.8. |
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k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 9 看到bouldering好手和rope climb好手的手指头都笔我的宽大有感 |
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 10 I'm pretty happy with 5.11s...
u r good, V5 to me is equal to injure.
climbing |
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 11 5.12? so many people just climb under 5.10 all their life. |
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k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 12 现在我更喜欢bouldering，当然rope climb我也很喜欢 :)
bouldering很有意思啊。简单，方便，器材需求不。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 it's a realistic goal. I have only redpointed some 10Bs last season and I
don't think I can devote a lot of time working on sport climbing next season. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 I have been fighting with 5.10s for over a year now. We will all reach a
point where we can't make progress easily anymore. The plateau is higher for
some people and lower for others. It's not a big deal. Just keep climbing
and enjoy what you are doing.
people |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 she'll be climbing a lot harder than I will ever be able to follow soon.
lots |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 16 That's easy. Just follow a half marathon training plan. I've seen people
trying to do full marathon and climbing 5.12 yet keeping a full time job.
You'll be lucky if you can keep injury-free this way. |
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c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 17 终于去了趟Ice Climbing。披星戴月的赶到CO，感谢我们的向导，不仅在那里耐心的等
我们，还很细心的帮我们每个人配好合适的 boots, crampons, gaiters, harness,
helmet。
Cabin是私人的度假小屋，其实算个大house，一切设施应有尽有。5间卧室，每人都有
一张很舒适的床，带的睡袋都没用上。
另外两头deer居然跑到前院里来迎接我们，无辜的大眼睛看着特别可爱。本来还怕闪光
灯惊走了他们，结果发现他们不是一般的淡定。 |
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c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 18 Ice Climbing Day 1
一大早开车来到Wolf Creek pass附近，把车停在change station，10来分钟左右就到
了山崖边。一个向导设置路线，另一向导就给我们现场讲解如何使用 ice axe and
crampon。
准备好后就开始攀冰，好象没有想象中的艰难。天气很好，大概40度左右，山崖向阳，
Swinging ice axe and kicking crampon也比较容易。这个地方总共有三条线，短的几
乎竖直，中长的曲曲弯弯一点，两条线的耗力程度差不太多。剩的一条大长线说是养肥
一点给第二天用。
每个人几乎都fall过一次，有位同学的 ice axe还掉下来，幸好没伤人伤己，应该是没
系紧带子的缘故。赶在太阳下山崖之前，有的又多攀了一次，看起来都很尽兴。
回去路上想着好不容易来一趟，要多体验一下。于是要求第二天试 snowshoeing，向导
也很好，考虑了一下后放弃了特意留给第二天的要养肥一点的那条长线，安排
snowshoeing 去另一个地方攀冰。
回到温暖的 cabin，大家七手八脚的BBQ、做饭、烤蛋糕（有个同学生日），美美的吃
了顿大餐... 阅读全帖 |
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c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 19 Ice Climbing Day 2
因为到那个North Clear Creek的路程较远，要早出发一个小时。一大早向导带着我们
在山里东拐西拐的来到了一片开阔地，白茫茫的雪晃得人都睁不开眼。穿上snowshoes,
，拄着snow poles，刚开始走的时候还是有点歪歪扭扭的，不过很快也就适应了。大约
30分钟后就到了谷顶，好象还没走尽兴呢。
收拾好 snowshoes后，我们在一边玩，两向导各自忙着设置路线，然后把我们一个个放
下去。轮到我的时候，觉得还是有点紧张的。
下到谷底后，踩着深浅不一的雪，赶紧走到另一边的有点向阳的小坡上放下背包休息，
这才有空仔细欣赏谷底景色。发觉跟昨天的大不一样：太阳很少，ice burger既多又大。
全都下来后，休息片刻准备攀冰了。向导还提醒我们别忘了欣赏里面的流水。昨天的一
条线里也有一点涓涓细流，刚开始砸下axe时心里还是有点点发怵的。
看着我在旁边跃跃欲试，向导让我先上右边这条线。我就挑了个漂亮的几个点入手：-
）。哪知ice burger漂亮是漂亮，光滑通透的，就是axe砸了很久都进不去，crampon踢
一点后也不稳，攀了几步后又给滑下... 阅读全帖 |
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k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 20 不错，很厉害！
Ice Climbing Day 2
因为到那个North Clear Creek的路程较远，要早出发一个小时。一大早向导带着我们
在山里东拐西拐的来到了一片开阔地，白茫茫的雪晃得人都睁不开眼。穿上snowshoes,
，拄着snow poles，刚开始走的时候还是有点歪歪扭扭的，不过很快也就适应了。大约
30分钟后就到了谷顶，好象还没走尽兴呢。
收拾好 snowshoes后，我们在一边玩，两向导各自忙着设置路线，然后把我们一个个放
下去。轮到我的时候，觉得还是有点紧张的。
下到谷底后，踩着深浅不一的雪，赶紧走到另一边的有点向阳的小坡上放下背包休息，
这才有空仔细欣赏谷底景色。发觉跟昨天的大不一样：太阳很少，ice burger既多又大。
全都下来后，休息片刻准备攀冰了。向导还提醒我们别忘了欣赏里面的流水。昨天的一
条线里也有一点涓涓细流，刚开始砸下axe时心里还是有点点发怵的。
看着我在旁边跃跃欲试，向导让我先上右边这条线。我就挑了个漂亮的几个点入手：-
）。哪知ice burger漂亮是漂亮，光滑通透的，就是axe砸了很久都进不去，crampon踢
一点后也不稳，... 阅读全帖 |
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b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 21 超级好的climbing place阿，不计其数的routes， sandstone很多holds.
简直是rock climing的天堂。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 去了多久？
看照片你只去了sport climb区，没去爬trad？ |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 23 climb难度不一定比sport的路线高
不过你要是没爬过还是算了 |
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R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 24 具体谈谈爬山？现在还属于winter climb吗？
我开过来6个半小时，只能参加爬山。 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 25 突然很怀念去年和虎头pink他们的那次snake dike climb. 摸着黑就开始走在happy
isles的砂石小径上，走到天空慢慢变亮，穿过山谷pink同学大呼好大的树啊被我们
一致鄙视；爬到half dome的脚下时阳光打在一整片两千尺的花岗岩上大
家却都说不出话来了，回头望去整个优胜美地山谷笼罩在白色的晨雾中宛似仙境。
后面痛苦的排队等待/寒冷/害怕/滑的下不去脚的slab, 150英尺的runout现在在想来也
没那么可怕了。就记得大家都登顶下了铁索以后夕阳映红了大片的天空趁着深蓝色的暮霭，
还有我小跑着冲下了subdome的那大片光秃秃的石头，千钧一发的冲到久违的树林里面
上了一个no.1之后欢快的心情。还有下山时在little yosemite valley的大圆木头上吃东西
看满月还有xiaodong磨破的攀岩裤里若隐若现的屁屁。:P
当时记得大家说过这个又长又费事的路线爬过一次就再也不要爬了，不过才半年过去又
觉得美好的想再次重温，可能这就是朋友加经典路线的魅力吧。 |
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s****y
发帖数: 267 | 26 I started bouldering training seriously not long ago. Soon, I find how to
recover from prior trainings becomes a burning issue for me. In many morning
upon wakeup, I have numb fingers, especially around the second joint. Is it
normal? Sometimes muscle fatigue also bothers me to have the next training
satisfactorily. I only climb twice a week, which is considered as a mild
interval. How do you guy do the rest and recovering and what is your
training schedule in terms of intensity? Do you split it... 阅读全帖 |
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s****y
发帖数: 267 | 27 Thank you for the tip. I can only swim breast stroke and am still learning
crawl stroke now. It is a shame.
I more and more find tendon and bone strength become a physical bottleneck
in climbing training for a middle age beginner as me. When someone is young,
muscle, tendon and bone can grow together in balance. With ages, muscle
sometimes overgrows, which leads injuries. |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 28 Climbing two days per week is like running 10 miles per week. Unless you are
very unfit, as long you are reasonably careful, you can run through minor
pains.
Of course you can't run all your weekly mileage on fast tempo. So the
structure of your 'training' matters more. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 that's not a fair comparison. I run 70 miles a week, and that is equivalent
to climbing 14 days a week? :)
are |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 30 lol
你要是能free climb the nose， 那就是Pro里的牛人了
能aid nose其实没啥，能做的人太多了，只要你有时间有钱就行，当然也不是菜鸟就能
做的 |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 31 当然aid了，我可不是lynn hill，过great roof看上去也很轻松，很graceful，呵呵。
。。
aid我也不行啊。没怎么aid过，free climb crack经验也基本是0。虽然是5.8 A1。 现
在的水平没一年专门训练不可能啊。 |
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S********g
发帖数: 922 | 32 需要狠练crack climbing，加一些chimney。还要aid练到efficient。这嘎达找crack不
容易。没有一年有计划的投入的training，不行。还要有水平相当也同样病得不轻的固
定partner一起练。加起来也是个非常大的commitment。今年看来不会有这么多的时间
，也暂时没那么大的决心。所以现阶段也就一美好的愿望而已。 |
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z*******y
发帖数: 126 | 33
climb high 自己品牌的扁带，$2一条60cm， 当时只买4天，肠子都悔青了。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 34 local的climb店如果自己能sew 的，一般价格都挺便宜
我以前在local买的一般都是3块多钱一条 60cm runner |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 35 恩，主要是，personal anchor太短了，非常限制灵活性
我还是觉得personal anchor这东西，最好买专用的，和别的sling区别开，防止误操作
专用的personal anchor，比如说metolius的，寿命很长的
另外，尽量别用daisy chain做person anchor
即便是aid climb，现在都不需要用普通的daisy chain了
one |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 36 daisy chain should have no business in free climbing whatsoever. |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 37 what's the difference between aid trad climbing? |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 38 Black diamond明令禁止在free climbing里用daisy chain。我还是看到无数人用，而
且错误的用。 |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 39 I am visiting the city later this week. I might not have the time for a day
out but wonder if anyone will go indoor
climbing at Brooklyn Boulder for a weekend afternoon. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 40 Wish I could climb more with you this year..
alive |
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l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 41 We will hike to the base of the lower ridge on the first day, then climb the
entire ridge and out the second day. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 42 Moosejaw has climbing sale right now, most items are 20% off, so it's a
little cheaper than buying in the store
with the tax. But you might still want to pick up something at PG out of
convenience and supporting the local
shops. If you don't intend to ever venture outside, shorter rope is perfect
for the gym. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 43 boom..it's gone. :(
all climbing shoes and cams were 20% off. |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 44 Only 5-6 pitches per outing? How long do you spend for climbing, vs driving/
approach? For sport routes, I would always like to have the situation where
there are 2 ppl with 1/2 ropes, or 4/5 ppl with 2/3 ropes so that no one was
wasting time out there. Well, that doesn't include the case when someone
wants to project some hard route. |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 45 We have a real beginner with us, and we didn't split up, which obviously
slowed down the process. And some of us had to be supervised to learn how to
practice rappel correctly... We definitely want to improve our efficiency
and do more sport climbing in the following weeks.
driving/
where
was |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 46 Co-ask about tech detail. HoPe he/she will be fine.
Was just talking to another friend today about practicing lead fall. She
said one of her friend - who she also wanted to introduce me to know
eventually - very good at trad lead, always try some lead fall at warmup
routes whenever climb outside. Next wknd I should practice some lead fall,
to feel about it. And is there a rigt way to fall or what tech detail should
pay attention to when do that? any input? Thanks. |
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R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 47 bless~~~ 最近climbing出事很多啊啊。。。 |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 48 ft.我最近正大买绳子，n多carabiner,sling, Cordelette，nuts,webbing
大跨步向climbing挺进。。。 |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 49 wow... rich guy!
i have only bought one pad, my friends bought gears for sport climbing and
trad... we all share equipment/gears...
i need sling and locking caribiner for rappel, been using friends'... |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50 如果要说数据就拿数据说话吧。你要不调查一下fatalities/number of hours spent
on roc climbing，比较一下fatalities/number of hours spent on eating (or
whatever)，这样就比较fair了。跟吃饭比我不知道，但是跟开车比肯定是攀岩安全的
多。 |
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